标准编号:	FZ/T 81006-2017
中文名称:	牛仔服装
英文名称:	Jeanswear
行业分类:	FZ    纺织行业标准
发布机构:	中华人民共和国工业和信息化部
发布日期:	2017-04-12
实施日期:	2017-10-1
标准状态:	valid
替代旧标准:	FZ/T 81006-2007 牛仔服装
翻译语言:	英文
文件格式:	PDF
中文字符数:	19000 字
翻译价格(元):	450.0
交付时间:	付款后 1 个工作日

Codeofchina.com is in charge of this English translation. In case of any doubt about the English translation, the Chinese original shall be considered authoritative. This standard is developed in accordance with the rules given in GB/T 1.1-2009. This standard replaces FZ/T 81006-2007 Jeanswear; the following technical changes have been made with respect to FZ/T 81006-2007 (the previous edition): ——The application scope of the standard is modified (see Chapter 1; Chapter 1 of 2007 Edition); ——The "Normative References" is supplemented and modified (see Chapter 2; Chapter 2 of Edition 2007); ——The terms of unwashed jeanswear and washed jeanswear in English are modified; the terms and definitions of general jeanswear and color jeanswear are canceled (see Chapter 3; Chapter 3 of Edition 2007); ——The requirements of instruction are supplemented (see 4.1; 4.1 of Edition 2007); ——The requirements of raw material are modified: the requirements of shell fabric and lining fabric are modified; the requirements of "decorative lace" and "drawstrings, cords and elastic cords" of auxiliary materials are added; the requirements of button, decorative button, zipper and other accessories are modified (see 4.3, 4.3of Edition 2007); ——The requirements on wrap and weft yarn directions are modified (see 4.4; 4.4 of Edition 2007); ——The requirements of splicing are canceled (4.5 of Edition 2007); ——The provisions and requirements of appearance defects as well as the expression of table note are modified (see 4.6; 4.7 of Edition 2007); ——The requirements of sewing are modified: the specifications of thick thread and thin thread are specified; the requirements of sewing button are canceled; the requirements of trademark and permanent label are modified (see 4.7; 4.8 of Edition 2007); ——The requirements of specification and dimension permissible deviation are modified; sleeve length check is carried out according to long sleeve length and short sleeve length respectively, and the expression of table note is modified (see 4.8; 4.9 of Edition 2007); ——The requirements of symmetric parts in ironing appearance are modified (see 4.10; 4.11 of Edition 2007); ——The requirements for physical and chemical performances are modified: the provision "jeanswear for children aged from 36-month to 14-year old shall also meet those specified in GB 31701" is supplemented; the assessment index of color fastness to light is modified; the assessment requirements regarding to products for infants and young children of color fastness are canceled; the assessment index of breaking strength is modified; the assessment index of wear resistance permissible degree of finished product shell fabric is modified; the assessment index of seam slippage at main parts of the finished product is modified; the assessment requirements on peeling strength of fusible interlining are canceled; the assessment requirements on adhesion fastness of jeans button are added; the assessment requirements on appearance after washing are added; the requirements on basic safety performance of finished product are modified (see 4.11; 4.12 of Edition 2007); ——The measurement method of appearance determination is modified: the measurement methods of specification, dimension and yarn skewness degree are modified (see 5.3; 5.3 of Edition 2007); ——Physical and chemical performances test is supplemented: the cage-rotating drying temperature for dimensional change after washing is supplemented; the sampling position for abrasion resistance is supplemented; the provision and testing method of sampling position for seam slippage are modified; the measurement method for adhesion fastness of jeans button is added; the measurement method for peeling strength of fusible interlining is canceled, the measurement method for appearance after washing is added; the provision "other items of physical and chemical performances shall be tested according to those specified in GB/T 21294" (see 5.4; 5.4 of Edition 2007); ——The inspection rules are modified (see Chapter 6; Chapter 6 of Edition 2007); ——The provisions in Annex A are modified (see Annex A; Annex A of Edition 2007); ——The provisions of Annex B are modified (see Annex B; Annex B of Edition 2007); ——The Annexes C and D in previous edition are canceled (see Annexes C and D of Edition 2007); ——Annex C is added (see Annex C). This standard was proposed by China National Textile and Apparel Council. This standard is under the jurisdiction of SAC/TC 219 National Technical Committee on Garments of Standardization Administration of China. The previous editions of the standard are as follows: ——FZ/T 81006-1992 and FZ/T 81006-2007. Jeanswear 1 Scope This standard specifies terms and definitions, requirements, inspection method, inspection rules as well as marking, packaging, transport and storage of jeanswear. This standard is applicable to jeanswear produced mainly with machine woven jean whose main material is pure cotton or cotton fiber. This standard is not applicable to garments for infants at an age of 36 or less months. 2 Normative References The following referenced documents are indispensable for the application of this document. For dated references, only the edition cited applies. For undated references, the latest edition of the referenced document (including any amendments) applies. GB/T 250 Textiles - Tests for Colour Fastness - Grey Scale for Assessing Change in Colour GB/T 1335 (All parts) Standard Sizing Systems for Garments GB/T 3917.1 Textiles - Tear Properties of Fabrics - Part 1: Determination of Tear Force Using Ballistic Pendulum Method (Elmendorf) GB/T 3921-2008 Textiles - Tests for Colour Fastness - Colour Fastness to Washing with Soap or Soap and Soda GB/T 3923.2 Textiles - Tensile Properties of Fabrics - Part 2: Determination of Maximum Force Using the Grab Method GB 5296.4 Instructions for Use of Products of Consumer Interest - Part 4: Textiles and Apparel GB/T 6529 Textiles - Standard Atmospheres for Conditioning and Testing GB/T 8427-2008 Textiles - Tests for Color Fastness - Color Fastness to Artificial Light: Xenon Arc Fading Lamp Test GB/T 8629-2001 Textiles - Domestic Washing and Drying Procedures for Textile Testing GB/T 8630 Textiles - Determination of Dimensional Change in Washing and Drying GB/T 14801 Test Method for Skewness and Bow in Woven and Knitted Fabrics GB/T 15557 Standard Terminology Relating to Apparel GB 18401 National General Safety Technical Code for Textile Products GB/T 21196.2 Textiles - Determination of the Abrasion Resistance of Fabrics by the Martindale Method - Part 2: Determination of Specimen Breakdown GB/T 21294 Testing Methods of Physical and Chemical Performance of Garments GB/T 29862 Textiles - Identification of Fiber Content GB 31701 Safety Technical Code for Infants and Children Textile Products GB/T 31907 Method of Garment Measurement FZ/T 80002 Marking, Packaging, Transportation and Storage for Garments FZ/T 80004 Rule for Garments Delivery Inspection 3 Terms and Definitions For the purposes of this document, the terms and definitions given in GB/T 15557 and the following apply. 3.1 unwashed jeanswear jeanswear with the finished product or applied shell fabric only subjected to desizing and shrink resistant finish while not subjected to washing process and finish 3.2 washed jeanswear jeanswear with the finished product or applied shell fabric subjected to such wash modes as stonewash, enzyme wash, bleach, etc. or various combinations of the wash modes 4 Requirements 4.1 Instruction The instruction shall comply with those specified in GB 5296.4 and GB 31701, with unwashed jeanswear or washed jeanswear indicated; the requirements on special wear process, grinding process, etc. shall be noted in the instruction. 4.2 Standard sizing systems and specifications 4.2.1 The standard sizing system shall be set according to those specified in GB/T 1335. 4.2.2 The specification of main parts shall be designed according to the relevant requirements of GB/T 1335. 4.3 Raw materials 4.3.1 Shell fabric Select shell fabric meeting the quality requirements of this standard according to the standards relevant to textile fabric of the nation. 4.3.2 Lining fabric Lining fabric suitable for the applied shell fabric and conforming to the quality requirements of this standard shall be adopted. 4.3.3 Auxiliary materials 4.3.3.1 Lapping cloth, shoulder pad, border lace and bagging The lapping cloth, shoulder pad, border lace and bagging suitable to the performance of the applied shell fabric and lining fabric shall be adopted, and their quality shall be in accordance with those specified in this standard. 4.3.3.2 Suture, drawstrings and elastic cord Suture, drawstrings and elastic cord suitable to the performance of applied shell fabric, lining fabric and auxiliary materials shall be adopted (expect ornamental thread and tape). 4.3.3.3 Button, zipper and other attached accessories Buttons (except ornamental buttons), zippers and other accessories suitable for the applied shell fabric shall be adopted. The button, ornamental button, zipper and other accessories shall be smooth in surface and free from burr, damage, defect or accessible sharp tip or edge. Zippers shall well mesh and run smoothly. Note: accessible sharp tip or edge refers to the sharp tip and edge on finished product that may hurt human skin under normal wearing. Children's clothing shall also meet the relevant requirements of GB 31701.

Foreword i 1 Scope 2 Normative References 3 Terms and Definitions 4 Requirements 5 Inspection (Testing) Method 6 Inspection Rules 7 Marking, Packaging, Transport and Storage Annex A (Normative) Description for Appearance Defects and Severity Annex B (Normative) Test Methods for Distortion and Distortion Displacement of Jeans (Skirt) Annex C (Normative) Test Method for Adhesion Fastness of Jeans Button

牛 仔 服 装 1 范围 本标准规定了牛仔服装的术语和定义、要求、检验方法、检验规则以及标志、包装、运输和贮存。 本标准适用于以纯棉或棉纤维为主要原料的机织牛仔布生产的牛仔服装。 本标准不适用于年龄在36个月及以下的婴幼儿服装。 2规范性引用文件 下列文件对于本文件的应用是必不可少的。凡是注日期的引用文件，仅注日期的版本适用于本文件。凡是不注日期的引用文件，其最新版本(包括所有的修改单)适用于本文件。 GB/T 250 纺织品 色牢度试验 评定变色用灰色样卡 GB/T 1335(所有部分)服装号型 GB/T 3917.1纺织品 织物撕破性能 第1部分：冲击摆锤法撕破强力的测定 GB/T 3921—2008 纺织品 色牢度试验 耐皂洗色牢度 GB/T 3923.2纺织品 织物拉伸性能 第2部分：断裂强力的测定(抓样法) GB 5296.4消费品使用说明 第4部分：纺织品和服装 GB/T 6529 纺织品 调湿和试验用标准大气 GB/T 8427—2008 纺织品 色牢度试验 耐人造光色牢度：氤弧 GB/T 8629—2001 纺织品 试验用家庭洗涤和干燥程序 GB/T 8630 纺织品 洗涤和干燥后尺寸变化的测定 GB/T 14801 机织物与针织物纬斜和弓纬试验方法 GB/T 15557服装术语 GB 18401 国家纺织产品基本安全技术规范 GB/T 21196.2纺织品 马丁代尔法织物耐磨性的测定 第2部分：试样破损的测定 GB/T 21294服装理化性能的检验方法 GB/T 29862 纺织品 纤维含量的标识 GB 31701婴幼儿及儿童纺织产品安全技术规范 GB/T 31907服装测量方法 FZ/T 80002服装标志、包装、运输和贮存 FZ/T 80004服装成品出厂检验规则 3术语和定义 GB/T 15557确立的以及下列术语和定义适用于本文件。 3.1 原色产品unwashed jeanswear 成品或所用面料只经退浆、防缩整理，未经洗涤方式加工整理的牛仔服装。 3.2 水洗产品washed jeanswear 成品或所用面料经石洗、酶洗、漂洗等洗涤方式或经不同组合洗涤方式加工整理的牛仔服装。 4 要求 4.1使用说明 使用说明按GB 5296.4和GB 31701规定，且应注明原色产品或水洗产品。有特殊磨损、洗烂工艺等情况应在使用说明中注明。 4.2 号型规格 4.2.1 号型设置按GB/T 1335规定。 4.2.2 主要部位规格按GB/T 1335有关规定自行设计。 4.3原材料 4.3.1 面料 按国家有关纺织面料标准选用符合本标准质量要求的面料。 4.3.2 里料 采用与所用面料相适宜并符合本标准质量要求的里料。 4.3.3 辅料 4.3.3.1 衬布、垫肩、装饰花边、袋布 采用与所用面料、里料的性能相适宜的衬布、垫肩、装饰花边、袋布，其质量应符合本标准规定。 4.3.3.2缝线、绳带、松紧带 采用与所用面料、里料、辅料的性能相适宜的缝线、绳带、松紧带(装饰线、带除外)。 4.3.3.3钮扣、拉链及其他附件 采用适合所用面料的钮扣(装饰扣除外)、拉链及其他附件。钮扣、装饰扣、拉链及其他附件应表面光洁、无毛刺、无缺损、无残疵、无可触及锐利尖端和锐利边缘。拉链啮合良好、光滑流畅。 注：可触及锐利尖端和锐利边缘是指在正常穿着条件下，成品上可能对人体皮肤造成伤害的锐利尖端和边缘。儿童服装还应符合GB 31701的相关规定。 4.4经纬纱向 4.4.1 上衣前后身、袖子、领面的纱线歪斜程度不大于3％。 4.4.2裤、裙子的纱线歪斜程度不大于2％。 4.5 色差 4.5.1 原色产品：袖缝、摆缝、裤侧缝色差不低于4级，其他表面部位高于4级；套装中的上装与下装的色差不低于3-4级；同批次、不同件成衣之间色差不低于3-4级。 4.5.2水洗产品不考核。 4.6外观疵点 成品各部位的疵点允许存在程度按表l规定。成品各部位划分见图1。各部位只允许一种允许存在程度内的疵点。未列入本标准的疵点按其形态，参照表1相似疵点规定。 表1 疵点名称 各部位允许存在程度 1号部位 2号部位 3号部位 经向疵点 不允许 轻微，总长度2.0 cm或总面积1.0 cm2以下，允许2处 轻微，总长度3.0 cm或总面积1.0 cm2以下，允许2处 纬向疵点 轻微，长度0.5 cm 以下，允许1处 轻微，总长度2.0 cm或总面积1.0 cm2以下，允许2处 轻微，总长度3.0 cm或总面积1.0 cm2以下，允许2处 散布性疵点 不允许 轻微 轻微 破损性疵点 不允许 不允许 不允许 斑渍疵点 不允许 总长度2.0 cm或总面积1.0 cm2以下允许1处 总长度3.0 cm或总面积1.0 cm2以下，允许2处 注1：已注明特殊磨损、洗烂工艺等情况的产品不作为破损性疵点考核。 注2：外观疵点及程度说明见附录A。 图1 图1(续) 4.7缝制 4.7.1针距密度按表2规定，特殊设计除外。 表2 项 目 针距密度 明暗线 不少于8针/3 cm 包缝线 不少于8针/3 cm 锁眼 细线 不少于8针/1 cm 粗线 不少于6针/1 cm 注：细线——20 tex及以下缝纫线；粗线——20 tex以上缝纫线。 4.7.2缉缝口袋、串带袢缝份宽度不小于0.6 cm。 4.7.3所有外露的缝份都要折光边或包缝(特殊设计除外)。 4.7.4各部位缝制线路顺直、整齐、平服、牢固。 4.7.5明线20 cm内不允许接线，20 cm以上允许接线一次，无跳针、断线。 4.7.6商标和耐久性标签位置端正、平服。 4.7.7锁眼定位准确，大小适宜，扣与眼对位，钉扣牢固，扣合力要足够，套结位置准确，钉扣线不脱散。 4.7.8装饰物(绣花、镶嵌等)牢固、平服。 4.8规格尺寸允许偏差 成品主要部位规格尺寸允许偏差按表3规定。 表3 单位为厘米 部位名称 规格尺寸允许偏差 原色产品 水洗产品 衣长 ±1.0 ±1.5 胸围 ±1.5 ±2.5 领大 ±0.6 ±1.0 总肩宽 ±0.8 ±1.0 长袖袖长 圆袖 ±0.8 ±1.0 连肩袖 ±1.0 ±1.2 短袖袖长 ±0.6 ±0.8 裤、裙长 ±1.5 ±2.0 腰围 ±1.0 ±2.0 注：松紧腰围产品不考核腰围部位规格尺寸允许偏差。 4.9水洗前扭曲度 成品裤、裙子的水洗前扭曲度不超过2 cm(前后片宽度差异较大的特殊设计不考核)。 4.10整烫外观 4.10.1外观整洁、无线头。 4.10.2对称部位大小、前后、高低一致。 4.10.3各部位熨烫平服、整洁，无烫黄、水渍、亮光及死痕。 4.11理化性能 成品理化性能按表4规定。36个月以上至14岁儿童穿着的牛仔服装还应同时符合GB 31701的规定。 表4 项目 分等要求 优等品 一等品 合格品 纤维含量/％ 符合GB/T 29862规定 甲醛含量/(mg/kg) 符合GB 18401规定 pH值 可分解致癌芳香胺染料/(mg/kg) 异味 原色 产品 水洗尺寸变化率a,b/％ 领大 -1.5～+1.0 -2.0～+1.0 -2.5～+1.0 胸围 -2.0～+1.0 -2.5～+1.0 -3.0～+1.5 衣长 -2.0～+1.0 -2.5～+1.0 -3.0～+1.5 腰围 -1.5～+1.0 -2.0～+1.0 -2.5～+1.5 裤长、裙长 -2.0～+1.0 -2.5～+1.0 -3.0～+1.5 表4(续) 项目 分等要求 优等品 一等品 合格品 原色产品 色牢度/级 ≥ 耐皂洗 变色 4 3-4 3 沾色 3 2-3 耐干摩擦 沾色 3-4 3 耐光 变色 4 3 耐汗渍 (酸、碱) 变色 4 3-4 3 沾色 3-4 3 耐水 变色 4 3-4 3 沾色 3-4 3 断裂强力c,f/N ≥ 339 g/m2以上的织物 经向 450 纬向 300 245 g/m2～339 g/m2的织物 经向 300 纬向 250 245 g/m2以下的织物 经向 200 纬向 150 撕破强力c,f/N ≥ 339 g/m2以上的织物 经向 25 纬向 18 245 g/m2～339 g/m2的织物 经向 23 纬向 18 245 g/m2以下的织物 经向 15 纬向 11 水洗 产品 水洗尺寸变化率a,b/％ 领大 -1.5～+1.0 -2.0～+1.5 胸围 -1.5～+1.0 -2.5～+1.5 衣长 -1.5～+1.0 -2.5～+1.5 腰围 -1.5～+1.0 -2.5～+1.5 裤长、裙长 -1.5～+1.0 -2.5～+1.5 色牢度/级 ≥ 耐皂洗 变色 4 3-4 沾色 3 2-3 耐干摩擦 沾色 3-4 3 耐光 变色 4 3 耐汗渍 (酸、碱) 变色 4 3-4 沾色 3-4 3 耐水 变色 4 3-4 沾色 3-4 3 表4(续) 项 目 分等要求 优等品 一等品 合格品 水洗 产品 断裂强力c,f/N ≥ 339 g/m2以上的织物 经向 320 纬向 200 245 g/m2～339 g/m2的织物 经向 250 纬向 150 245 g/m2以下的织物 经向 150 纬向 150 撕破强力c,f/N ≥ 339 g/m2以上的织物 经向 18 纬向 16 245 g/m2～339 g/m2的织物 经向 16 纬向 14 245 g/m2以下的织物 经向 13 纬向 10 耐磨性能c,d,f/次 ≥ 339 g/m2以上的织物 25 000 20 000 339 g/m2及以下的织物 15 000 10 000 缝子纰裂程度e,f/cm ≤ 0.6 裤后裆缝接缝强力f/N 339 g/m2以上的织物 180 ≥ 339 g/m2及以下的织物 140 工字扣附着牢度h 200 N定负荷下不脱落、不破损 水洗后扭曲度g/cm ≤ 2.0 3.0 水洗扭曲度移动g/cm ≤ 1.5 2.5 洗后外观 不允许出现破损、脱落、锈蚀、变形和明显扭曲，缝口不允许脱散 注：弹性产品指含有氨纶等弹性纤维的织物。 a领大水洗尺寸变化率仅考核立领产品。 b松紧腰围产品不考核腰围尺寸变化率，褶皱处理产品、弹性产品不考核横向尺寸变化率。 c有特殊磨损、洗烂工艺等情况的产品不考核。 d除牛仔裤外，245 g/m2以下的织物不考核。 e缝子纰裂程度试验结果出现滑脱、织物断裂、缝线断裂、织物撕破，判定为不符合要求。 f无法取样的产品不考核。 g上装、短裤(裙)不考核。前后片宽度差异较大的特殊设计不考核。 h仅考核腰头工字扣。 5检验(测试)方法 5.1 检验工具 5.1.1钢卷尺或直尺，分度值为1 mm。 5.1.2评定变色用灰色样卡(GB/T 250)。 5.1.3牛仔服装外观疵点样照。 5.2规格测定 主要部位规格尺寸测量方法按GB/T 31907规定，规格尺寸允许偏差按表3规定。 5.3外观测定 5.3.1 外观检验一般采用灯光照明，照度不低于600 lx，有条件时也可采用北空光照明。 5.3.2直、横向纱线歪斜程度测定按GB/T 14801规定，按式(1)计算结果。 S=100d/W …………………………(1) 式中： S——直向或横向纱线歪斜程度，％； d——经纱或纬纱与直尺间最大垂直距离，单位为毫米(mm)； W——测量部位宽度，单位为毫米(mm)。 5.3.3评定色差程度时，被评部位应纱向一致。入射光与织物表面约成45°角，观察方向应垂直于织物表面，距离60 cm目测，与GB/T 250样卡对比。 5.3.4外观疵点允许存在程度测定时，距离60 cm目测，并与牛仔服装外观疵点样照对比，必要时采用钢卷尺或直尺进行测量。 5.3.5成品裤、裙子水洗前扭曲度按4.9规定，测试方法按附录B规定。 5.3.6针距密度在成品缝纫线迹上任取3 cm测量(厚薄部位除外)。