Codeofchina.com is in charge of this English translation. In case of any doubt about the English translation, the Chinese original shall be considered authoritative.
4.1 and 4.12.10 of this standard are compulsory provisions. Requirements for qualified products of colour fastness to water, colour fastness to perspiration, colour fastness to dry friction and colour fastness to saliva in 4.12.3 are compulsory provisions.
This standard replaces FZ/T 81006-1992 "Jeanswear".
Compared with FZ/T 81006-1992, this standard has the following main changes:
——Modify the application scope of the standard;
——Supplement normative references;
——Add Chapter 3 "Terms and Definitions";
——Add the requirements for instructions for use and warp and weft direction;
——Modify the requirements for colour difference and splicing;
——Add the description to appearance defects and degree;
——Add the requirements for torsion resistance before washing;
——Add the requirements for the examination of breaking force, tearing strength, abrasion resistance, torsion resistance before and after washing, seam slippage degree, trouser back crotch seam strength, peeled off strength of fusible interlining covered position, etc. of finished product;
——Add the requirements for colour fastness of finished product;
——Add the requirements for dimensional change ratio of finished product after washing, torsion resistance and torsion resistance movement after washing;
——Add the requirements for examination of formaldehyde content, pH value, odor and dissolvable aromatic amine dye;
——Add the requirements for examination of raw material composition and content;
——Divide the product quality grade into high-grade product, first-grade product and qualified product;
——Replenish and perfect product quality defect judgment content.
Appendix A, Appendix B, Appendix C and Appendix D of this standard are normative.
This standard is proposed by China National Textile And Apparel Council.
This standard is under the jurisdiction of the National Technical Committee on Garments of Standardization Administration of China (SAC/TC 219).
Chief drafting organizations of this standard: Wenzhou Institute of technology Testing & Quality, Shanghai Garment Research Institute, National Textile and Garment Quality Supervision Testing Center (Guangzhou), Semir Group Co. Ltd., Kipone (Quanzhou) Garment Industry Co., Ltd..
Chief drafting staff of this standard: Lin Ouwen, Xu Jian, Gu Bofang, Zhu Xiuli, Shi Qingti, Qin Wei, Wang Hongming.
The National Technical Committee on Garments of Standardization Administration of China is responsible for the explanation of this standard.
This standard was issued in 1992 for the first time and this time is the first revision.
PROFESSIONAL STANDARD
OF THE PEOPLE'S REPUBLIC OF CHINA
中华人民共和国纺织行业标准
FZ/T 81006-2007
Jeanswear
牛仔服装
1 Scope
This standard specifies the requirements, inspection (test) methods, inspection classification rules as well as marking, packing, transport and storage and other technical characteristics of jeanswear.
This standard is applicable to regular and colour jeanswear produced with coloured woven jean blended and interwoven mainly in pure cotton and cotton fiber as the main raw material.
2 Normative References
The following standards contain provisions which, through reference in this text, constitute provisions of this standard. For dated reference, subsequent amendments to (excluding correction to), or revisions of, any of these publications do not apply. However, all parties coming to an agreement according to this standard are encouraged to study whether the latest edition of these documents is applicable. For undated references, the latest edition of the normative document is applicable to this standard.
GB 250 "Gray Scale for Assessing Change in Colour"
GB 251 "Gray Scale for Assessing Staining"
GB/T 1335.1 "Standard Sizing Systems for Garments-Men"
GB/T 1335.2 "Standard Sizing Systems for Garments-Women"
GB/T 1335.3 "Standard Sizing Systems for Garments-Children"
GB/T 2910 "Textile-Binary Fibre Mixtures-Quantitative Chemical Analysis"
GB/T 2911 "Textiles-Ternary Fibre Mixtures-Quantitative Analysis"
GB/T 2912.1 "Textiles-Determination of Formaldehyde-Part 1: Free and Hydrolized Formaldehyde (Water Extraction Method)"
GB/T 3917.1 "Textiles-Tear Properties of Fabrics-Part 1: Determination of Tear Force Using Ballistic Pendulum Method (Elmendorf)"
GB/T 3920 "Textiles-Tests for Colour Fastness-Colour Fastness to Rubbing"
GB/T 3921.3 "Textiles-Tests for Colour Fastness to Washing: Test 3"
GB/T 3922 "Textiles-Testing Method for Colour Fastness to Perspiration"
GB/T 3923.1 "Textiles-Tensile Properties of Fabrics-Part 1: Determination of Breaking Force and Elongation at Breaking Force-Strip Method"
GB/T 3923.2 "Textiles-Tensile Properties of Fabrics-Part 2: Determination of Breaking Force-Grab Method"
GB 5296.4 "Instructions for Use of Products of Consumer Interest-Instructions for Use of Textiles and Apparel"
GB/T 5713 "Textiles-Tests for Colour Fastness-Colour Fastness to Water"
GB/T 7573 "Textiles-Determination of PH of Aqueous Extract"
GB/T 8170 "Rules for Rounding off of Numerical Values"
GB/T 8427 "Textiles-Tests for Colour Fastness-Colour Fastness to Artificial Light: Xenon Arc Fading Lamp Test"
GB/T 8628 "Textiles-Preparation, Marking and Measuring of Fabric Specimens and Garments in Tests for Determination of Dimensional Change"
GB/T 8629 "Textiles-Domestic Washing and Drying Procedures for Textile Testing"
GB/T 8630 "Textiles-Determination of Dimensional Change in Washing and Drying"
GB/T 14801 "Test Method for Skewness and Bow in Woven and Knitted Fabrics"
GB/T 17592 "Textiles-Determination of the Banned Azo Colourants"
GB 18401 "National General Safety Technical Code for Textile Products"
GB/T 18886 "Textiles-Tests for Fastness-Colour Fastness to Saliva"
FZ/T 01026 "Textile-Quaternary Fibre Mixtures-Quantitative Chemical Analysis"
FZ/T 01053 "Textiles-Identification of Fiber Content"
FZ/T 01057 (All Parts) "Test Method for Identification of Textile Fibers"
FZ/T 01095 "Textile-Test Method of Elastane Fibre Content"
FZ/T 13001 "Yarn-dyed Denim"
FZ/T 20020 "Testing Method for Determination of the Resistance to Abrasion of Wool Fabrics-Martindale Method"
FZ/T 32004-1996 "Flax Cotton Blended Grey Yarn"
FZ/T 80002 "Marking Packaging Transportation and Storage for Garments"
FZ/T 80004 "Rule for Garments Delivery Inspection"
FZ/T 80007.1 "Test Method of Peeled off Strength Value for Garments Used Adhesive Interlining"
3 Terms and Definitions
For the purposes of this standard, the terms and definitions specified in GB 18401 as well as the following ones apply.
3.1
Washing product
Jeanswear, of which the finished product or shell fabric used is subjected to stone washing, enzyme washing, rinsing, ice washing, snow washing, etc. or washed, processed and arranged through multiple combination modes.
3.2
Original product
Jeanswear, of which the finished product or shell fabric used is only subjected to desizing and shrink resistant finish but not processed or arranged through washing mode.
3.3
Regular jeanswear
Garment fabricated with jean-style shell fabric by mainly taking cotton, indigo which is blended with cotton, and sulfur dye colour yarn as warp and grey yarn as weft.
3.4
Colour jeanswear
Garment fabricated with jean-style coloured woven shell fabric by mainly taking cotton and cotton blended colour yarn as warp and weft.
4 Requirements
4.1 Instructions for use
The instructions for use of finished product shall comply with GB 5296.4 and GB 18401, and washing product or original product shall be indicated.
4.2 Size and specification
4.2.1 Size setting shall be selected according to those specified in GB/T 1335.1, GB/T 1335.2 and GB/T 1335.3.
4.2.2 Specification for main parts of finished product shall be designed by itself according to the relevant requirements of GB/T 1335.1, GB/T 1335.2 and GB/T 1335.3.
4.3 Raw materials
4.3.1 Shell fabric
Shell fabric suitable for jeanswear shall be selected according to FZ/T 13001 or relevant standards for textile shell fabric.
4.3.2 Lining
The lining with appropriate property and color and lustre with shell fabric used shall be adopted (except special design).
4.3.3 Accessory fabric
4.3.3.1 Liner, shoulder pad and pocket bag
The liner, shoulder pad and pocket bag with appropriate property and color and lustre with shell fabric used shall be adopted.
4.3.3.2 Suture
Suture suitable for the quality of accessories and lining used shall be adopted; the shrinkage of embroidery thread shall be appropriate to the shell fabric; button thread shall be suitable for button in color and lustre; brand thread shall be suitable for the brand ground colour (except ornamental thread).
4.3.3.3 Button, zipper and metallic accessories
Button (except ornamental button), zipper and metallic accessories suitable for the shell fabric used shall be adopted and free from defects. Button and accessories shall be free from deformation, discolouring and rust after washing and ironing.
4.4 Warp and weft direction
The allowable skewness degree of front and back parts of jacket, sleeve and top collar shall not be larger than 3%, and that of trousers (skirt) not larger than 2%.
4.5 Splicing
4.5.1 The collar band may be spliced symmetrically; the waistband of trousers (skirt) may be spliced once at rear seam or once respectively at right and left side seams (except those required by the special style design).
4.5.2 Except ornamental splicing.
4.6 Colour shading
4.6.1 Washing product is not examined.
4.6.2 Original product: colour shading of sleeve seam, side seam and trouser side seam shall not be less than Grade 4 and larger than Grade 4 for other surface positions; that of tops and bottoms in suits shall not be less than Grade 3-4; and that between garments of the same batch and different pieces shall not be less than Grade 3-4.
4.7 Appearance defects
The allowable defect existence degree of each position of the finished product shall be in accordance with those specified in Table 1. Classification of positions of the finished product is detailed in Figure 1. The defects not listed in this standard shall be carried out according to their forms and by reference to similar defects in Table 1.
Foreword I
1 Scope
2 Normative References
3 Terms and Definitions
4 Requirements
5 Inspection (Test) Method
6 Inspection Classification Rules
7 Marking, Packing, Transport and Storage
Appendix A (Normative) Description to Appearance Defects and Defect Degree
Appendix B (Normative) Test Methods for Torsion Resistance and Torsion Resistance Movement of Trousers (Skirts)
Appendix C (Normative) Test Methods for Slipping Degree of Seam
Appendix D (Normative) Schematic Diagram for Sampling Position in the Seam Strength Test of Back Crotch Seam of Trousers