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GB/T 13772 Textiles - Determination of the Slippage Resistance of Yarns at a Seam in Woven Fabrics consists of the following four parts:
——Part 1: Fixed Seam Opening Method
——Part 2: Fixed Load Method
——Part 3: Needle Clamp Method
——Part 4: Friction Method
This part is Part 2 of GB/T 13772.
This part is developed in accordance with the rules given in GB/T 1.1-2009.
This part replaces GB/T 13772.2-2008 Textiles - Determination of the Slippage Resistance of Yarns at a Seam in Woven Fabrics - Part 2: Fixed Load Method and has the following technical changes with respect to it:
——Tensile force which shall be applied for fabric with lower mass per unit area is adjusted (see Table 2; Table 2 in Edition 2008);
——Such condition descriptions as "fabric tear" or "yarn slippage" resulting in test failure are added (see 11.2);
——Sampling requirements and result calculation for apparel seam test specimen are added (see Annex C);
This part has been redrafted and modified in relation to ISO 13936-2:2004 Textiles - Determination of the Slippage Resistance of Yarns at a Seam in Woven Fabrics - Part 2: Fixed Load Method.
The main technical differences between this part and ISO 13936-2:2004 and their reasons are as follows:
——Technical differential adjustments have been made in normative references of this part to adapt to the technical specification in China; adjustments are intensively reflected in Chapter 2 "Normative References", and the specific adjustments are as follows:
● ISO 139 is replaced by GB/T 6529, which is modified in relation to the international standard;
● ISO 7500-1 is replaced by GB/T 16825.1, which is identical with the international standard;
● Reference ISO 3175-2 in Bibliography is rearranged to normative references and replaced by GB/T 19981.2, which is modified in relation to the international standard;
● Reference ISO 6330 in Bibliography is rearranged to normative references and is replaced by GB/T 8629, which is modified in relation to the international standard;
——Note 2 in Table 1 is added;
——Tensile force which shall be applied for fabric with lower mass per unit area is added, (see Table 2 in 10.4);
——Such condition descriptions as "fabric breakage", "seam breakage", "fabric tear" or "yarn slippage" resulting in test failure are added (see 11.2);
——Annex C "Sampling Requirements and Result Calculation for Apparel Seam Test Specimen" is added.
The following editorial changes have been made in this part:
——Complementary explanations have been made for the title of 6.2.
This part was proposed by China National Textile and Apparel Council.
This standard is under the jurisdiction of the National Technical Committee on Textiles of the Standardization Administration of China (SAC/TC 2009).
The previous editions of this part are as follows:
——GB/T 13772.2-1992, GB/T 13772.2-2008.
Textiles - Determination of the Slippage Resistance of Yarns at a Seam in Woven Fabrics - Part 2: Fixed Load Method
1 Scope
This part of GB/T 13772 specifies the determination of the slippage resistance of yarns at a seam in woven fabrics via fixed load method.
This part is applicable to all apparel and upholstery woven fabrics and stretch fabrics (including those containing elastomeric yarns).
It is not applicable to industrial fabric, e.g. beltings.
2 Normative References
The following referenced documents are indispensable for the application of this document. For dated references, only the edition cited applies. For undated references, the latest edition of the referenced document (including any amendments) applies.
GB/T 6529 Textiles - Standard Atmospheres for Conditioning and Testing (GB/T 6529-2008, ISO 139:2005, MOD)
GB/T 8629 Textiles - Domestic Washing and Drying Procedures for Textile Testing (GB/T 8629-2017, ISO 6330:2012, MOD)
GB/T 16825.1 Verification of Static Uniaxial Testing Machines - Part 1: Tension/Compression Testing Machines - Verification and Calibration of the Force-measuring System (GB/T 16825.1-2008, ISO 7500-1:2004, IDT)
GB/T 19022 Measurement Management Systems - Requirements for Measurement Processes and Measuring Equipment (GB/T 19022-2003, ISO 10012:2003, IDT)
GB/T 19981.2 Textiles - Professional Care, Drycleaning and Wetcleaning of Fabrics and Garments - Part2: Procedure for Testing Performance When Drycleaning and Finishing Using Tetrachloroethene (GB/T 19981.2-2014, ISO 3175-2:2010, MOD)
GB/T 24118-2009 Textiles - Stitch Types - Classification and Terminology (ISO 4915:1991, IDT)
3 Terms and Definitions
For the purposes of this standard, the following terms and definitions apply.
3.1
constant rate of extension testing machine
a testing machine where one clamp is fixed whilst the other is moving with a constant speed throughout the test and the test specimen extension is in proportion to the time
3.2
grab test
a kind of fabric tensile test in which only the center part of the test specimen is gripped by the clamp
3.3
yarn slippage
seam slippage
the movement, in a woven fabric of weft yarns over warp yarns (or warp yarns over weft yarns) as a result of a pulling action
Note: Seam slippage is fabric property and shall not be confused with seam strength.
3.4
warp slippage
warp yarns slipping over weft yarns, i.e. the warp yarns are at right angles to the direction of pull
3.5
weft slippage
weft yarns slipping over warp yarns, i.e. the weft yarns are at right angles to the direction of pull
3.6
seam allowance
the distance between the seam line and the adjacent edges of the material
3.7
seam opening
the maximum distance between the yarns in fabric after their slippage
4 Principle
A rectangular test specimen is folded and stitched across its width. Then the test specimen is cut near the fold and a force is applied to it at right angles to the seam using clamp. The extent to which the seam opens is measured.
5 Sampling
The sampling method shall be either in accordance with the relevant product specification, or as agreed between the interested parties.
In the absence of specification, for fabric test specimen, an example of a suitable sampling procedure is given in Annex A; an example of a pattern for cutting test specimens is given in Annex B; for apparel seam test specimen, suitable sampling method is given in Annex C.
Avoid test specimens from folded or creased areas, edges and areas not representative of the fabric.
6 Apparatus
6.1 Constant rate of extension (CRE) machine
6.1.1 Metrological confirmation of the constant rate of extension (CRE) machine shall be in accordance with GB/T 19022. The CRE machine shall be provided with the general characteristics specified in 6.1.2 to 6.1.7.
6.1.2 The constant rate of extension (CRE) machine shall be provided with means for indicating or recording the force applied to the test specimen in extending it. Under conditions of use, the accuracy of the apparatus shall be class 1 of GB/T 16825.1. The error of the indicated or recorded maximum force at any point in the range in which the machine is used shall not exceed ±1% and the error of recorded extension shall not greater than ±1mm.
6.1.3 If recording of force is obtained by means of data acquisition boards and software, the frequency of data collection shall be at least eight per second.
6.1.4 The machine shall be capable of constant rate of extension of 50mm/min, with an accuracy of ±10%.
6.1.5 The machine shall be capable of setting the gauge length to 100mm.
6.1.6 The center point of clamping device shall be at the line of the applied force and the clamping lines shall be perpendicular to the line of the applied force; the clamping face shall be in the same plane.
The clamp shall be capable of holding the test specimen without allowing it to slip and the clamping face shall be flat and smooth with no cutting or damage on test specimen when test specimen is clamped.
Except that when the slippage of test specimen can’t be avoided with flat-faced clamping, clamp with other types of clamping face may be used. Appropriate liner material may be used on the clamping face.
6.1.7 The dimension of clamping test specimen in grab test shall be (25mm±1mm)×(25mm±1mm). The dimension can be achieved by either method a) or method b) as described below:
a) The width of rear clamping face is 25mm and the length is at least 40mm (preferably 50mm), positioned with the wider direction of the clamp perpendicular to the line of the application of the force; the front clamp shall be of the same dimensions positioned perpendicular to the first so that the wider direction of the clamp is parallel to the direction of the application of the force.
b) The width of rear clamping face is 25mm and the length is at least 40mm (preferably 50mm), positioned with the wider direction of the clamp perpendicular to the line of application of the force; the front clamp shall be 25mm×25mm.
Foreword i
1 Scope
2 Normative References
3 Terms and Definitions
4 Principle
5 Sampling
6 Apparatus
7 Conditioning and Testing Atmosphere
8 Pretreatment
9 Preparation of Test Specimens
10 Test Procedure
11 Calculation and Expression of Results
12 Test Report
Annex A (Informative) Suggested Procedure for Sampling
Annex B (Informative) Example of Pattern for Cutting out Test Specimens from the Laboratory Sample
Annex C (Informative) Sampling Method and Result Calculation for Apparel Seam
Bibliography
