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This standard replaces GB/T 2662-1999 "Cotton wadded clothes".
Compared with GB/T 2662-1999, this standard has the following major changes:
——The normative references were supplemented;
——Product instructions were modified;
——Requirements for the raw materials of finished products were added; airtight film shall not be used;
——Requirements for the filler, stripe and plaid matching, appearance defects and sewing were modified;
——Requirements for the allowable deviation of finished products dimension were modified;
——Requirements for the water washing size change ratio and dry cleaning size change ratio of finished products were added;
——Assessment for the peel strength of the position covered with adhesive interlining was added;
——Requirements in allowable degrees of colour fastness to washing and wet friction of finished products were modified;
——Requirements in allowable degrees of colour fastness to washing, wet friction, light, acid perspiration, alkaline perspiration and water of finished products were added;
——Requirements in allowable degree of fuzzing and pilling of finished products were added;
——Seam stress of trouser back crotch seam was added;
——Requirements for the formaldehyde content of finished products were modified;
——Requirements for the pH value of finished products were added;
——Requirements for the peculiar smell of finished products were added;
——Requirements for the detachable aromatic amine dyes of finished products were supplemented and improved;
——Requirements for the components and contents of finished products were added;
——Contents related to the quality defect judgment of finished products were supplemented and consummated;
——Appendix B (normative) "Sampling location schematic diagram for joint strength test of seat seam of trousers" was added.
Appendix A and Appendix B in this standard are normative.
This standard was proposed by China National Textile and Apparel Council.
This standard is under the jurisdiction of National Technical Committee on Garments of Standardization Administration of China (SAC/TC 219).
Chief drafting organizations: Shenzhen Academy of Metrology& Quality Inspection, Shanghai Garment Research Institute, Fujian Shoe & Garment Quality testing center, ANTA (China) Co., Ltd. and Fujian Malaite Knitting & Garment Co., Ltd.
Chief drafting staffs: Yang Zhimin, Xu Jian, Chen Guoqinag, Lin Yarong, Wang Zhiyong, Li Su, Li Yiyu, Teng Wanhong and Liang Haibao.
The National Technical Committee on Garments of Standardization Administration of China is responsible for the explanation of this Standard.
This standard was issued for the first time in 1981, and revised for the first time in 1999 and this is the second revision.
Cotton Wadded Clothes
1 Scope
This standard specifies the requirements, inspection (testing) method, inspection classification rules as well as marking, packaging, transportation, storage and other technical features of the cotton wadded clothes.
This standard is applicable to the cotton wadded clothes produced in lots, with textile woven fabrics as the major shell fabric, various natural fiber, chemical fiber and animal villus as the filler, or animal fur and artificial fur as the detachable lining.
This standard is not applicable to the products containing down feather in the filler.
2 Normative References
The following standards contain provisions which, through reference in this text, constitute provisions of this standard. For dated reference, subsequent amendments to (excluding correction to), or revisions of, any of these publications do not apply. However, the parties to agreements based on this standard are encouraged to investigate the possibility of applying the most recent editions of the standards. For undated references, the latest edition of the normative document referred to applies.
GB 250 Gray scale for assessing change in colour
GB 251 Gray scale for assessing staining
GB/T 1335.1 Standard sizing systems for garments - Men
GB/T 1335.2 Standard sizing systems for garments - Women
GB/T 1335.3 Standard sizing systems for garments - Children
GB/T 2910 Textile--Binary fibre mixtures--Quantitative chemical analysis
GB/T 2911 Textile--Binary fibre mixtures--Quantitative chemical analysis
GB/T 2912.1 Textiles--Determination of formaldehyde--Part 1: Free and hydrolyzed formaldehyde (Water extraction method)
GB/T 3920 Textiles—Tests for colour fastness—Colour fastness to rubbing
GB/T 3921 Textiles—Tests for colour fastness—Colour fastness to washing with soap or soap and soda
GB/T 3922 Textiles--Testing method for colour fastness to perspiration
GB/T 3923.1 Textiles--Tensile properties of fabrics--Part 1: Determination of breaking force and elongation at breaking force--Strip method
GB/T 4802.1 Textiles - Determination of fabric propensity to surface fuzzing and to pilling - Part 1: Circular locus method
GB/T 4841.3 Colour cards of standard depths for dyeing with dyestuffs 2/1, 1/3, 1/6, 1/12, 1/25
GB 5296.4 Instructions for use of products of consumer interest--Instructions for use of textiles and apparel
GB/T 5711 Textiles-Tests for colour fastness-Colour fastness to dry cleaning
GB/T 5713 Textiles-Tests for colour fastness-Colour fastness to water
GB/T 7573 Textiles--Determination of pH of the aqueous extract
GB/T 8170 Rules for Rounding off of Numberical Values
GB/T 8427 Textiles-Tests for colour fastness Colour fastness to artificial light: Xenon arc fading lamp test
GB/T 8629 Textiles-Domestic washing and drying procedures for textile testing
GB/T 16988 Quantitative determination for mixtures of special animal fibre and wool
GB/T 17592 Textiles - Determination of the banned azo colourants
GB/T 18132 Silk garments
GB 18383 General Technical Requirements for Products with Filling Materials
GB 18401 National General Safety Technical Code for Textile Products
FZ/T 01026 Quaternary fibre mixtures - Quantitative chemical analysis
FZ/T 01053 Textiles-Identification of fiber content
FZ/T 01057 (all parts) Test method for identification of textile fibres
FZ/T 01095 Textile--Test method of elastane fibre content
FZ/T 30003 Method for quantitative analysis of ramie (flax hemp) cotton blended textile - Micro projection
FZ/T 80002 Marking packaging transportation and storage for garments
FZ/T 80004 Rule for garments delivery inspection
FZ/T 80007.1 Test method of peeled off strength value for garments used adhesive interlining
FZ/T 80007.3 Dry wash resistance test method for garments used adhesive interlining
FZ/T 81009 Fur imitation garment
QB/T 2822 Fur garment
3 Requirements
3.1 Instructions for use
Instructions for use of finished products shall comply with the requirements of GB 5296.4 and GB 18401.
3.2 Size designation and specification
3.2.1 Size designation setting shall comply with the requirements of GB/T 1335.1~1335.3.
3.2.2 Specifications of main positions of finished product shall be designed independently according to the relevant requirements of GB/T 1335.1~1335.3.
3.3 Raw materials
3.3.1 Shell fabric
Shell fabric suitable for cotton wadded clothes shall be selected according to the relevant standards for textile shell fabric.
3.3.2 Lining
3.3.2.1 Lining with property and color matching with the shell fabric used shall be adopted (excluding the special design).
3.3.2.2 Airtight film shall not be used.
3.3.3 Filler and detachable lining materials
3.3.3.1 Various natural fiber, chemical fiber, animal villus and their mixture as well as animal fur and artificial fur with certain heat retention property shall be selected according to the relevant standards.
3.3.3.2 Quality of fibrous filler shall meet the requirements of GB 18383.
3.3.3.3 Quality of animal fur shall meet the requirements of QB/T 2822.
3.3.3.4 Quality of artificial fur shall meet the requirements of FZ/T 81009.
3.3.4 Accessories
3.3.4.1 Interlining
Interlining with size change ratio, property, and color matching with the shell fabric used shall be selected, and the quality shall meet the requirements of corresponding product standards.
3.3.4.2 Stitch thread
Stitch thread suitable for the quality of accessories used shall be adopted. The shrinkage of embroidery thread shall match with the shell fabric. Button thread shall match with the color of button. Brand thread shall match with the brand ground colour (except ornamental thread).
3.3.4.3 Button and auxiliaries
Button (except ornamental button), zipper and metallic auxiliaries matching with the shell fabric used shall be adopted. They shall be free from defects, deformation, discoloring and rusting after washing and ironing.
3.4 Warp and weft direction
Allowable inclination degrees of front fly of right warping (reverse warping is not allowable), back fly, sleeve and front/back trouser (skirt) pieces shall not be greater than 3%. Allowable inclination degrees of colored woven, printing or stripe & plaid materials shall not be greater than 2.5% (excluding the special design).
3.5 Stripe and plaid matching
3.5.1 Apparent stripes or plaids of over 1.0cm, if on shell fabric, shall comply with the requirements of Table 1.
Table 1 Unit: cm
Position name Requirements on stripe or plaid matching Remarks
Left and right front Stripes shall be straight, plaids across each other, the mutual deviation shall not be greater than 0.3. If the sizes of plaids are different, take the upper part of one third coat length.
Bag, flap and body piece Stripe matching of strip material and plaid matching of plaid material, the mutual deviation shall not be greater than 0.3. In case of different plaid size, subject to the center of the bag front.
Collar point
The stripe material shall be symmetrical, the mutual deviation shall not be greater than 0.3. If checker board weaves exist, take the obvious one.
Sleeve
Two sleeves are smooth and straight, and of symmetrical stripes and plaids matching; and the mutual deviation based on sleeve cap is not greater than 1.0. —
Trousers (skirt) side seam The plaid materials at 10.0 below the side seam pocket opening shall be horizontally aligned, and the mutual deviation shall not be greater than 0.5. —
Front/back crotch seam Stripe matching of strip material; plaid matching of plaid material; the mutual deviation shall not be greater than 0.5. —
Note: excluding the special design.
3.5.2 The fabric and velvet, checker board weave raw material and the whole body shall be in the same direction; the whole part of long-hair raw materials shall be in the same direction (excluding the special design).
3.5.3 Shell fabric with special pattern shall subject to the main picture, and the whole body shall be in the same direction.
3.6 Colour difference
3.6.1 Colour difference of top collar, bag and body piece is greater than Grade 4; colour difference of trouser (skirt) side seam is greater than Grade 4; colour difference of other surface positions is not less than Grade 4.
3.6.2 Colour difference cause by the interlining influence or multi-layer materials shall not be less than Grades 3~4.
3.6.3 The color difference between top and trousers (skirt) in a suit shall not be less than Grade 4.
3.7 Appearance defect
The allowable existence degree of appearance defect at each position of the finished product shall be in accordance with those specified in Table 2. Each position classification of finished product is detailed in Figure 1. Only one defect is allowed on each independent position. The unlisted defects in this standard shall be implemented according to its form and referring to the similar defects in Table 2.
Table 2
Defect name Allowable existence degree on each position
Position 1 Position 2 Position 3
Thicker than one time of basic yarn Unallowable Below 2.0cm long Below 4.0cm long
Thicker than twice of basic yarn Unallowable Unallowable Below 1.5cm long
Thicker than three times of basic yarn Unallowable Unallowable Unallowable
Warp shrinkage
Unallowable Not obvious Below 4.0cm long and 1.0cm wide
Granular roving Unallowable Unallowable Not affecting the overall appearance
Shade bar
Unallowable Not affecting the overall appearance Slight
Spot defects (oil, rust, colour spots) Unallowable Not affecting the overall appearance Below 0.2cm2
Figure 1
3.8 Sewing
3.8.1 Stitch length density shall meet the requirements of Table 3 (excluding the special design).
Table 3
Item Stitch length density Remarks
Open/blind stitch Not less than 12 needles each 3 cm Excluding the special requirements
Overseam stitch Not less than 9 needles each 3 cm —
Breakline
Not less than 9 needles each 3 cm Excluding the ornamental breakline
Button holing
Not less than 14 needles each 1 cm —
Buttoning
Thin line
Not less than 8 threads each hole At least two upper holes and two lower holes
Thick line
Not less than 4 threads each hole
3.8.2 Sewing lines on each position shall be smooth, straight, regular, flat and firm. Main surface position and sewing shrivel degree shall meet the requirements of "Grade 5 sample photographs of down garments appearance defects and sewing wrinkles" and shall not be less than Grade 3.
3.8.3 Collar shall be flat; the tightness of top collar, lining and interlining shall be proper. As for the cotton coats that may be installed and uninstalled with internal bladders, plain edge, overseaming or binding shall be made on the rear neckline and facing collar extension. Welt and band shall be flat and consistent in width. As for the detachable natural fur caps, the villus grain direction at the cap opening shall be consistent, and the joints with the cap opening shall be smooth, straight and flat.
3.8.4 Set sleeve shall be smooth, and basically consistent in front and back.
3.8.5 Nail bag and flap shall be square and smooth, at uniform height in front and back, and the oblique materials shall be symmetrical on the left and right.
3.8.6 Drawn threads of zipper shall be regular; zipper shall be flat, smooth, straight, and at uniform height on the left and right, consistent with the pulling positions, and tightened properly.
3.8.7 Button holing shall be located accurately and sized suitably; alignment of button and hole is regular and solid. Button feet are suitable in height, and the thread knotting is not exposed. The cotton coats that may be installed and uninstalled with internal bladders shall be arranged with buttons, loops or hasps for fixing in the inner side of sleeve opening, as well as left and right side seams of bottom edge.
3.8.8 Upper and lower buckles shall be tightened properly and firmly, free from burrs and shedding.
3.8.9 Trademark, size mark, component and content, and washing mark shall be located upright, clear and accurate.
3.8.10 Breakline shall be smooth, straight and uniform in thickness. Breaklines on the surfaces shall be symmetrical on the four sides; mutual deviation of transverse breaklines shall not be greater than 0.4cm.
3.8.11 Collar positions shall be free from skipped stitch and wiring; other positions shall not skip two or more than two single stitches or continuously skip stitches within 30cm; overchain stitch is not allowed to skip thread.
3.9 Allowable specification deviation
The allowable deviation of specification on main position of the finished product shall be in accordance with those specified in Table 4.
Table 4 Unit: cm
No. Position name Men and women Children
Allowable deviation Allowable deviation
1 Coat length
Coat
±1.5 +2.5
-1.5
Overcoat
±2.0 +3.5
-1.5
2 Chest girth
±3.0 +4.0
-2.0
3 Collar size
±1.0 +1.5
-0.8
4 Total shoulder width ±1.0 +2.0
-0.8
5 Sleeve length
Set sleeve
±1.0 +2.0
-1.0
Raglan sleeve
±1.5 +2.5
-1.4
6 Trousers (skirt) length
±2.0 +3.0
-1.5
7 Waist girth
±1.5 +2.0
-1.0
3.10 Ironing
3.10.1 Each position shall be ironed flatly, neatly, and free from burnt stain, water stain and light.
3.10.2 The position covered with adhesive interlining shall be free from degumming, strike-through and wrinkling.
3.11 Physical chemical properties
3.11.1 Size change ratio
Size change ratio includes the size change ratio after water washing and dry cleaning of finished products.
3.11.1.1 The size change ratio of finished product after water washing shall meet the requirements of Table 5.
Table 5 %
Position High-grade product First-grade product Qualified product
Chest girth
≥-1.5 ≥-2.0 ≥-2.5
Coat length
≥-1.5 ≥-2.5 ≥-3.5
Trousers (skirt) length
≥-1.5 ≥-2.5 ≥-3.5
Waist girth
≥-1.5 ≥-2.0 ≥-2.5
Note: only the products remarked as water washing available in the instructions for use may be assessed the size change ratio after water washing of finished product.
3.11.1.2 The size change ratio of finished product after dry cleaning shall meet the requirements of Table 6.
Table 6 %
Position Size change ratio after dry cleaning
Chest girth ≥-2.0
Coat length ≥-2.0
Trousers (skirt) length ≥-2.0
Waist girth ≥-2.0
Note: only the products remarked as dry cleaning available in the instructions for use may be assessed the size change ratio after dry cleaning of finished product.
3.11.2 Appearance after washing
After washing the finished products (water washing and dry cleaning), compounding, spray coating, printing and embroidering shell fabrics cannot foaming and shedding, the surface positions shall be free from water stain, and such auxiliaries as buttons shall not shed.
3.11.3 Peel strength of the position covered with adhesive interlining
Peel strength of the position covered with adhesive interlining shall not be less than 6N/(2.5cm×10cm); if the adhesive interlining of specimen ruptures first during the testing process, it shall be judged as qualified.
3.11.4 Colour fastness
Colour fastness to dry friction of lining shall not be less than Grade 3~4 (not less than Grade 4 for the articles of the infants and young children). The allowable degree of colour fastness of finished product shall meet the requirements of Table 7.
Table 7 Unit: grade
Item Allowable degree of colour fastness
High-grade product First-grade product Qualified product
Dry cleaning fastness Color change ≥4—5 ≥4 ≥3—4
Staining ≥4—5 ≥4 ≥3—4
Washing fastness
Color change ≥4 ≥3—4 ≥3
Staining ≥4 ≥3—4 ≥3
Dry friction fastness Staining ≥4 ≥3—4 ≥3
Wet friction fastness Staining ≥4 ≥3—4 ≥3
Light fastness
Color change ≥4 ≥3 ≥3
Perspiration fastness (acid and alkali) Staining ≥3
Staining ≥3
Saliva fastness Color change ≥4
Staining ≥4
Water fastness
Color change ≥3
Staining ≥3
Note 1: according to those specified in GB/T 4841.3, the color deeper than colour cards of standard depths for dyeing with dyestuffs 1/12 is dark color, while that lighter than or equal to colour cards of standard depths for dyeing with dyestuffs 1/12 is light color.
Note 2: only the products remarked as dry cleaning available in the instructions for use may be assessed the color fastness to dry cleaning.
Note 3: as for the allowable degree of colour fastness to wet friction, deep color first-grade and qualified products may be half grade lower than that specified in this standard.
Note 4: only the articles for the infants and young children are assessed for the colour fastness to saliva; the colour fastness to dry friction of articles for the infants and young children shall not be less than Grade 4; the colour fastness to perspiration and water shall not be less than Grade 3~4.
Note 5: the allowable degree of colour fastness of silk-based silk and blended fabric shall comply with the requirements of GB/T 18132.
3.11.5 Fuzzing and pilling
The allowable degree of fuzzing and pilling of finished products shall meet the requirements of Table 8.
Table 8 Unit: grade
Grade Allowable degree of fuzzing and pilling
High-grade product ≥4
First-grade product ≥3.5
Qualified product ≥3
3.11.6 Slipping
Allowable slipping degree of the seams on the main positions of finished product shall not be greater than 0.6cm; if slipping appears in the test results, the products shall be judged as unqualified.
3.11.7 Seam stress of trouser back crotch seam
Seam stress of trouser back crotch seam of finished product shall not be less than 140N/(5.0cm×10cm).
3.11.8 Formaldehyde content
Formaldehyde content of the finished product shall not be greater than 300mg/kg; that of the garments for the infants and young children shall not be greater than 20mg/kg.
3.11.9 PH value
PH value of the finished product shall be 4.0~9.0 and that of the garments for the infants and young children shall be 4.0~7.5.
3.11.10 Peculiar smell
Finished products shall be free from peculiar smell.
3.11.11 Detachable aromatic amine dyes
Detachable aromatic amine dyes specified in GB 18401 must not be used in the finished product, and their detection limit shall meet the requirements of GB/T 17592.
3.11.12 Component and content of raw material
Component and content marking requirements as well as allowable deviation of fibre content for the raw material of finished product shall meet the requirements of FZ/T 01053.
4 Inspection (Testing) Method
4.1 Inspection tools
4.1.1 Steel tape.
4.1.2 Gray scale for assessing change in colour (GB 250).
4.1.3 Gray scale for assessing staining (GB 251).
4.1.4 Colour cards of standard depths for dyeing with dyestuffs 1/12(GB/T 4841.3).
4.1.5 Appearance defect sample photographs of men and women single, cotton wadded clothes and men, women and children single garment.
4.1.6 Pilling sample photograph of combing wool fabric (wool surface), pilling sample photograph of combing wool fabric (smooth surface), pilling sample photograph of clothing wool fabric (GB/T 4802.1).
4.2 Determination of the finished product dimension
4.2.1 As for the specification of main positions of the finished products, the measuring methods shall meet the requirements of Table 9, and the measuring positions are detailed in Figure 2.
4.2.2 The allowable deviation of specification on main position of the finished product shall be in accordance with those specified in Table 4.
Foreword i
1 Scope
2 Normative References
3 Requirements
4 Inspection (Testing) Method
5 Inspection Rules
6 Marking, Packaging, Transportation and Storage
Appendix A (Normative) Test Methods for Slipping Degree of Seam
Appendix B (Normative) Sampling Location Schematic Diagram for Joint Strength Test of Seat Seam of Trousers
