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This standard is developed in accordance with the rules given in GB/T 1.1-2009.
This standard replaces GB/T 18132-2008 Silk Garments, and the following technical deviations have been made with respect to GB/T 18132-2008:
——the application scope of standard is modified (see Chapter 1; Chapter 1 of 2008 edition);
——the term and definition of light-weight products are modified and the term of infant's products is deleted (see 3.1; 3.1 and 3.3 of 2008 edition);
——requirements for shoulder pad and pocket bag are added (see 4.3.3.1);
——requirements for rope and elastic band are added (see 4.3.3.2);
——requirements for buttons, zippers and accessories are modified (see 4.3.3.3; 4.3.2.3 of 2008 edition);
——requirements for wadding are modified (see 4.3.4; 4.3.2.4 of 2008 edition);
——requirements for skewness in yarn-dyed plaid are deleted (see 4.4.3 of 2008 edition);
——requirements for permissible oblique of strip and plaid pattern are added (see 4.5.2);
——the values of color fastness indexes are modified (see 4.12; 4.12 of 2008 edition);
——the determination method for yarn skewness degree (see 5.3.2; 5.3.1 of 2008 edition);
——the determination method for spot permissibility is modified (see 5.3.4; 5.3.5 of 2008 edition);
——the test method for color fastness to light is modified (see 5.4.3; 5.4.3 of 2008 edition);
——the relevant requirements and test load for seam slippage are modified (see 4.12 and 5.4.4; 4.12, 5.4.4, A.2 and A.7 of 2008 edition);
——the test method for tear strength is modified (see 5.4.5; 5.4.6 of 2008 edition);
——the testing methods of physical and chemical performance of garments are quoted (see 5.4.7);
——general type inspection categories are deleted, and the time of type inspection is added (see 6.1; 6.1 of 2008 edition);
——defect judgment requirements in instructions for use are modified (see 6.2.3; 6.2.3 of 2008 edition);
——Annex A of 2008 edition is deleted, and the test method for seam slippage complies with GB/T 21294 (see 5.4.4; 5.4.4 of 2008 edition);
——Annex B of 2008 edition is deleted, and the sampling position for back crotch seam strength complies with GB/T 21294 (see 5.4.7; 5.4.5 of 2008 edition).
This standard was proposed by China National Textile and Apparel Council.
This standard is under the jurisdiction of the National Technical Committee on Garments of Standardization Administration of China (SAC/TC 219).
The previous editions of this standard are as follows:
——GB/T 18132-2000, GB/T 18132-2008.
Silk Garments
1 Scope
This standard specifies the terms and definitions, requirements, inspection methods, inspection classification rules, and marking, packaging, transportation and storage of silk garments.
This standard is applicable to the silk garments produced with the woven silk fabric containing natural silk or spun silk as the main fabric.
This standard is not applicable to garments for infants at the age of 36 months or below.
2 Normative References
The following referenced documents are indispensable for the application of this document. For dated reference, only the edition cited applies. For undated references, the latest edition of the referenced document (including any amendments) applies.
GB/T 250 Textiles - Tests for Color Fastness - Grey Scale for Assessing Change in Color
GB/T 1335 (all parts) Standard Sizing Systems for Garments
GB/T 3917.1 Textiles - Tear Properties of Fabrics - Part 1: Determination of Tear Force Using Ballistic Pendulum Method (Elmendorf)
GB/T 3917.2 Textiles - Tear Properties of Fabrics - Part 2: Determination of Tear Force of Trouser-shaped Test Specimens (Single Tear Method)
GB/T 3921-2008 Textiles - Tests for Colour Fastness - Colour Fastness to Washing with Soap or Soap and Soda
GB/T 4841.3 Color Cards of Standard Depths for Dyeing with Dyestuffs 2/1, 1/3, 1/6, 1/12, 1/25
GB 5296.4 Instructions for Use of Products of Consumer Interest - Part 4: Textiles and Apparel
GB/T 8427-2008 Textiles - Tests for Colour Fastness - Color Fastness to Artificial Light: Xenon Arc Fading Lamp Test
GB/T 8629-2001 Textiles - Domestic Washing and Drying Procedures for Textile Testing
GB/T 8630 Textiles - Determination of Dimensional Change in Washing and Drying
GB/T 14801 Test Method for Skewness and Bow in Woven and Knitted Fabrics
GB/T 15551 Mulberry Silk Fabrics
GB/T 15557 Standard Terminology Relating to apparel
GB 18401 National General Safety Technical Code for Textile Products
GB/T 21294 Testing Methods of Physical and Chemical Performance of Garments
GB/T 26380 Textile - Terminology for Silk
GB/T 29862 Textiles - Identification of Fiber Content
GB/T 31907 Method of Garment Measurement
FZ/T 80002 Marking, Packaging, Transportation and Storage for Garments
FZ/T 80004 Rule for Garments Delivery Inspection
FZ/T 80007.3 Dry Wash Resistance Test Method for Garments used Adhesive Interlining
GSB 16-2178 Standard Sample Photo for Grade 5 Sewing Wrinkle of Silk Garments
GSB 16-2179 Standard Sample Photo for Checking Spots of Silk Garments
3 Terms and Definitions
For the purposes of this document, the terms and definitions given in GB/T 15557 and GB/T 26380 and the following apply.
3.1
Light-weight fabric
silk fabric wholly or partially of pure gauge and mock yarn (through-hole) gauge and showing clear yarn holes on surface; or plain- and twill-weave silk fabric with mass area ratio of 47g/m2 or below; or satin-weave silk fabric with mass area ratio of 67g/m2 or below
3.2
Burnt-out fabric
silk fabric of various three-dimensional patterns formed by removing part of raw material on fabric with burnt-out process according to different acid and alkali resistances of raw materials
4 Requirements
4.1 Instructions for use
The instructions for use shall be in accordance with those specified in GB 5296.4.
4.2 Size specification
4.2.1 Size designation shall be in accordance with those specified in GB/T 1335 (all parts).
4.2.2 The specification of main positions shall be designed independently according to the relevant requirements of GB/T 1335 (all parts).
4.3 Raw materials
4.3.1 Fabric
Fabric meeting the quality requirements of silk garments shall be selected according to the GB/T 15551 and other standards concerning silk fabric of the nation.
4.3.2 Lining
Lining suitable to the applied fabric and meeting the quality requirements of this standard shall be adopted.
4.3.3 Accessories
4.3.3.1 Interlining, shoulder pad, border lace and pocket bag
The interlining, shoulder pad, border lace and pocket bag suitable to the performance of the applied fabric and lining shall be adopted, and their quality shall be in accordance with those specified in this standard.
4.3.3.2 Sewing thread, rope and elastic band
Sewing thread, rope and elastic band (excluding ornamental thread and band) suitable to the performance of the applied fabric, lining and accessories shall be adopted.
4.3.3.3 Buttons, zippers and other accessories
Buttons (excluding ornamental buttons), zippers and other accessories suitable to the applied fabric shall be adopted. The buttons, ornamental buttons, zippers and other accessories shall be smooth on surface and free from burr, damage, defect and accessible sharp tip or edge. Zippers shall be good in meshing and run smoothly.
Note: accessible sharp tip and edge are the sharp edge and tip on finished product that may cause harm to human skin under normal wearing.
4.3.4 Filler
Satisfactory fiber or its products shall be selected according to the relevant standards of the nation.
4.4 Wrap and weft yarn direction
4.4.1 The yarn skewness degree of top collar, back and sleeve shall not be greater than 3% and the front hem shall be free from any upwarp.
4.4.2 The horizontal and longitudinal yarn skewness degree of trousers and skirts shall not be greater than 3% and 1.5% respectively.
4.5 Strip matching and plaid matching
4.5.1 Fabric with apparent strip and plaid (1.0cm or above) shall be in accordance with those specified in Table 1.
Table 1 In: cm
Position Requirement for strip matching and plaid matching Remarks
Left and right front Strips are straight and plaids are matched with each other horizontally with the mutual deviation not greater than 0.4 If the sizes of plaids are different, the upper half part of the garment length shall prevail
Pocket and front Strips and plaids are matched with each other respectively with the mutual deviation not greater than 0.4. The patch pockets on the inclined fabric shall be symmetrical bilaterally with the mutual deviation not greater than 0.5. (except for the checkerboard strips and plaids) If the sizes of plaids are different, they shall be subject to the front part of pocket
Collar point and lapel Strips and plaids are symmetrical with the mutual deviation not greater than 0.2 In case of any checkerboard strip and plaid, apparent stripe and plaid shall prevail
Sleeve Strips are straight; plaids are matched with each other horizontally; both sleeves shall be symmetrical in relation to the sleeve top, with the mutual deviation not greater than 1.0 —
Center back seam and skirt piece splicing seam Strips are matched with each other and plaids are matched each other horizontally, with the mutual deviation not greater than 0.3 —
Side seam Plaids are matched each other horizontally, with mutual deviation not greater than 0.4 at the positions 10.0 below the armhole —
Trousers and skirt side seam Plaids are matched each other horizontally at the position below the knee line, with mutual deviation not greater than 0.4 Apparent stripe and plaid shall prevail
Trousers and skirt front center seam Strips are straight, with permissible oblique not greater than 1.0 —
Note: excluding special design.
4.5.2 The skewness degree of strip and plaid pattern shall not be greater than 3%.
4.5.3 The grain direction of nap-up/-down and checkerboard weave material all over the body is consistent, except in special design.
4.5.4 Fabric with special pattern shall be subject to the main pattern and the grain direction all over the body shall be consistent.
4.6 Splicing
4.6.1 The facing may be spliced once below the lapel and above the undermost buttonhole, but shall avoid buttonhole position. Under collar may be spliced symmetrically once (not allowed for stand collar). Trousers waist and skirt waist may be spliced once at the back center seam. Other positions are not allowed to be spliced.
4.6.2 Ornamental splicing is excluded.
4.7 Color difference
4.7.1 The color difference of fabric in each part shall not be less than Grade 4, and the color difference caused by interlining shall not be less than Grade 3~4 (except in special design).
4.7.2 Color difference between tops and bottoms of suits shall not be less than Grade 4.
4.8 Spots
The permissibility of spots at all positions of the finished product shall be in accordance with those specified in Table 2. The division of all positions of the finished product is detailed in Figure 1. Only one spot within permissibility is allowed at each position. The spots not covered in this standard shall be in accordance with the similar ones in Table 2 based on their forms.
Foreword I
1 Scope
2 Normative References
3 Terms and Definitions
4 Requirements
5 Test Methods
6 Inspection Classification and Rules
7 Marking, Packaging, Transportation and Storage
