标准编号:	FZ/T 73018-2021
中文名称:	毛针织品
英文名称:	Wool knitting goods
中标分类:	W63    针织品
行业分类:	FZ    纺织行业标准
ICS分类:	59.080.30 59.080.30    纺织物 59.080.30
发布机构:	中华人民共和国工业和信息化部
发布日期:	2021-3-5
实施日期:	2021-7-1
标准状态:	valid
替代旧标准:	FZ/T 73018-2012 毛针织品
翻译语言:	英文
文件格式:	PDF
中文字符数:	18000 字
翻译价格(元):	920.0
交付时间:	付款后 1 个工作日

Codeofchina.com is in charge of this English translation. In case of any doubt about the English translation, the Chinese original shall be considered authoritative. This document is developed in accordance with the rules given in GB/T 1.1-2020 Directives for standardization - Part 1: Rules for the structure and drafting of standardizing documents. This document replaces FZ/T 73018-2012 Wool knitting goods. The following technical changes have been made with respect to FZ/T 73018-2012: — The application scope is modified (see Clause 1; Clause 1 of 2012 Edition); — The normative references are adjusted (see Clause 2; Clause 2 of 2012 Edition); — The definition of boiled wool knitting goods is added (see Clause 3); — The classification of wool knitting goods is modified (see Clause 4; Clause 3 of Edition 2012); — The basic safety technical requirements for children products are added for safety requirements, which shall meet the provisions of GB 31701 (see 5.1; 4.1 of 2012 Edition); — The product grades are changed to superior product, first-grade product and acceptable product (see 5.2; 4.2 of 2012 Edition); — The requirements for color fastness to the printing part and products with hanging dyeing are deleted (see 4.3.3 of 2012 Edition); — The main contents of modification of inherent quality grading are as follows (see Table 1; Tables 1 and 3 of 2012 Edition):  The fiber content is modified according to GB/T 29862;  The project name of burst strength is changed to bursting strength;  The assessment indexes of alkylphenol and alkylphenol ethoxylates are added;  The assessment index of dimensional change rate by dry cleaning is added;  The assessment requirement of weaving density coefficient is modified;  The color change of color fastness to washing, perspiration, water and dry cleaning and the expression of staining are modified, and the corresponding assessment indexes are adjusted;  The assessment indexes of color fastness to transfer in joints are added;  The position of remarks is adjusted and the contents are modified; — The index of dimensional stability to washing is adjusted (see Table 2; Table 2 of Edition 2012); — The main contents of modification of appearance quality grading are as follows (see 5.4; 4.4 of 2012 Edition):  The judgment of the results of the seam elongation test is added (see 5.4.2; 4.4.3 of 2012 Edition);  The examination classification of unfold dimension of neckhole as children aged 7 and over 7 years old and adults, children under 7 years old is modified, and the judgment of test results is added (see 5.4.3; 4.4.4 of 2012 Edition);  The assessment requirements and notes of appearance defects are modified (see Table 3; Table 4 of 2012 Edition); — The requirements of antibacterial activity are added (see 5.5.1); — The performance requirements of scratchiness are added (see 5.5.2); — The main contents of the modification of the test method are as follows (see Clause 6; Clause 5 of 2012 Edition):  The inspection for safety requirements of GB 31701 is added (see 6.1; 5.1 of 2012 Edition);  The test method for fiber content is adjusted (see 6.2.1; 5.2.1 of 2012 Edition);  The test method for bursting strength is adjusted (see 6.2.2; 5.2.2 of 2012 Edition);  The requirements of grading through pilling test comparing with relevant standard sample photos are added (see 6.2.4; 5.2.4 of 2012 Edition);  The test method of alkylphenol and alkylphenol ethoxylates is added (see 6.2.7);  The test method of dimensional change rate by dry cleaning is added (see 6.2.8);  The test method of color fastness to light is adjusted (see 6.2.10; 5.2.9 of 2012 Edition);  The test method of color fastness to washing is adjusted (see 6.2.11; 5.2.10 of 2012 Edition);  The test method of color fastness to transfer in joints is added (see 6.2.16);  The test method of seam elongation according to FZ/T 20031 is modified, and the load value is 33 N (see 6.3.3, 5.3.3 of 2012 edition);  The test method of unfold dimension of neckhole according to FZ/T 20032 is modified, and the load value is 33 N (see 6.3.4, 5.3.4 of 2012 edition);  The test methods of antibacterial activity are added (see 6.4.1);  The test methods for the performance of scratchiness are added (see 6.4.2). — The appearance quality sample sampling according to GB/T 2828.1-2012 is modified (see 7.1.6, 6.1.6 of 2012 Edition); — The judgment requirement that children's products shall be judged to be unqualified if they do not meet the requirements of GB 31701 (see 7.2.3.1; 6.2.3.1 of 2012 Edition); — The requirements for marking are modified (see 9.2; 8.2 of Edition 2012); This document was proposed by the China National Textile and Apparel Council. This document is under the jurisdiction of Subcommittee on Wool Textiles of the National Technical Committee on Textiles of Standardization Administration of China (SAC/TC 209/SC 3). The previous editions of this document and documents replaced by this document are as follows: — FJ 198-1979, ZB W63 001-1986, ZB W63 002-1986 — FZ/T 73003~73004-1991, FZ/T 24006-1995; — FZ/T 73018-2002, FZ/T 73018-2012. Wool knitting goods 1 Scope This document specifies the terms and definitions, product classification, technical requirements, test methods, inspection rules, acceptance rules, packaging and marking of wool knitting goods. This document is applicable to qualify the quality of combing, woolen pure wool knitwear, and the knitting goods with wool content above 30%, and products made by splicing the knitted fabrics with other fabrics. Other animal wool fiber products can also be implemented with reference. This document is not applicable to the wool knitting goods for infants of 36 months or below. 2 Normative references The following documents contain provisions which, through reference in this text, constitute provisions of this document. For dated references, only the edition cited applies. For undated references, the latest edition of the referenced document (including any amendments) applies. GB/T 250 Textiles — Tests for colour fastness — Grey scale for assessing change in colour GB/T 1335 (All parts) Standard sizing systems for garments GB/T 2828.1-2012 Sampling procedures for inspection by attributes — Part 1: Sampling schemes indexed by acceptance quality limit (AQL) for lot-by-lot inspection GB/T 2910 (All parts) Textiles — Quantitative chemical analysis GB/T 3920 Textiles — Tests for colour fastness — Colour fastness to rubbing GB/T 3922 Textiles — Tests for colour fastness — Colour fastness to perspiration GB/T 4802.3 Textiles — Determination of fabric propensity to surface fuzzing and to pilling — Part 3: Pilling box method GB/T 4841.3 Colour cards of standard depths for dyeing with dyestuffs 2/1, 1/3, 1/6, 1/12, 1/25 GB/T 4856 Package of cotton goods and knitwear GB/T 5296.4 Instructions for use of products of consumer interest - Part 4: Textiles and apparel GB/T 5711 Textiles — Tests for colour fastness — Colour fastness to dry cleaning using perchloroethylene solvent GB/T 5713 Textiles —Tests for colour fastness — Colour fastness to water GB/T 7742.1 Textiles — Bursting properties of fabrics — Part 1:Hydraulic method for determination of bursting strength and bursting distension GB/T 7742.2 Textiles — Bursting properties of fabrics — Part 2:Hydraulic method for determination of bursting strength and bursting distension GB/T 8427-2019 Textiles — Tests for color fastness — Color fastness to artificial light: Xenon arc GB 9994 Conventional moisture regains of textile materials GB/T 9995 Determination of Moisture Content and Moisture Regain of Textile - Oven-drying Method GB/T 12490-2014 Textiles — Tests for colour fastness — Colour fastness to domestic and commercial laundering GB/T 16988 Quantitative determination for mixtures of special animal fiber and wool GB 18401 National general safety technical code for textile products GB/T 19981.2 Textiles — Professional care, drycleaning and wetcleaning of fabrics and garments — Part 2: Procedure for testing performance when cleaning and finishing using tetrachloroethene GB/T 20944.3 Textiles — Evaluation for antibacterial activity — Part 3:Shake flask method GB/T 23322 Textiles — Determination of surfactant — Alkylphenols and alkylphenol ethoxylates GB/T 29862 Textiles — Identification of fiber content GB/T 31127-2014 Textiles — Tests for colour fastness — Colour fastness to transfer in joints GB 31701 Safety technical code for infants and children textile products GB/T 31713 Hygienic requirement for safety of antibacterial textiles GB/T 38015 Textiles — Quantitative chemical analysis — Mixtures of elastane and certain other fibers FZ/T 01026 Textiles — Quantitative chemical analysis — Multinary fibre mixtures FZ/T 01057 (All parts) Test method for identification of textile fibres FZ/T 01101 Textile test method — Fiber content — Quantitative physical analysis FZ/T 01112 Textiles — Quantitative chemical analysis — Mixtures of silk and wool or/and cashmere (method using formic acid and zinc chloride) FZ/T 20011-2006 Test method for determining the angle of spirality in knitted wool garments FZ/T 20018 Determination of dichloromethane-soluble matter in wool textiles FZ/T 20031 Test method for seam elongation of wool knitted goods FZ/T 20032 Test method for neck opening stretchability of wool knitted goods FZ/T 30003 Method for quantitative analysis of ramie (flax hemp) cotton blended textile — Micro projection FZ/T 70008 Test method for cover factor of wool knitted fabrics FZ/T 70009 Test method for relaxation dimensional change and felting dimensional change to washing of wool textiles GSB 16-2922 Standard sample photos of woollen knitwear pilling GSB 16-2923 Standard sample photos of combing woollen knitwear pilling IWTO-66 Test method for the skin comfort of finished wool fabrics 3 Terms and definitions For the purposes of this document, the following terms and definitions apply. 3.1 boiled wool knitting goods wool knitting goods, which has been specially felted during processing in order to achieve the structural density required by design 4 Product classification 4.1 Classification by product category: — cardigan, overpull and vest; — trousers and skirt; — coats and suits; — shirts; — underwear; — socks; — small clothes (including hats, scarves, gloves, etc.); — patchwork garments. 4.2 Classification by scouring mode: — dry cleaning; — hand washing with care; — machine washable. 5 Technical requirements 5.1 Safety requirements The basic safety technical requirements of wool knitting goods shall be in accordance with GB 18401, and the basic safety technical requirements of products for children shall be in accordance with GB 31701. 5.2 Grading requirements 5.2.1 The wool knitting goods are classified into superior product, first-grade product and acceptable product. 5.2.2 The quality of wool knitting goods is graded based on both inherent quality and appearance quality, and is determined by the lower one. 5.2.3 Inherent quality is graded by batch while appearance quality by piece. 5.3 Inherent quality grading 5.3.1 Inherent quality shall be graded according to Table 1 and Table 2, and shall be graded according to the lowest test result.

Foreword i 1 Scope 2 Normative references 3 Terms and definitions 4 Product classification 5 Technical requirements 6 Test methods 7 Inspection rules 8 Acceptance rules 9 Packaging and marking 10 Other Annex A (Nominative) Description of appearance defect

毛针织品 1 范围 本文件规定了毛针织品的术语和定义、产品分类、技术要求、试验方法、检验规则、验收规则、包装和标志。 本文件适用于鉴定精、粗梳纯绵羊毛针织品、绵羊毛含量为30％及以上的混纺针织品，及由上述针织物为主要面料与其他面料拼接而成的制品的品质，其他动物毛纤维制品亦可参照执行。 本文件不适用于年龄在36个月及以下的婴幼儿毛针织产品。 2 规范性引用文件 下列文件中的内容通过文中的规范性引用而构成本文件必不可少的条款。其中，注日期的引用文件，仅该日期对应的版本适用于本文件；不注日期的引用文件，其最新版本(包括所有的修改单)适用于本文件。 GB/T 250 纺织品 色牢度试验 评定变色用灰色样卡 GB/T 1335(所有部分) 服装号型 GB/T 2828.1—2012 计数抽样检验程序 第1部分：按接收质量限(AQL)检索的逐批检验抽样计划 GB/T 2910(所有部分) 纺织品 定量化学分析 GB/T 3920 纺织品 色牢度试验 耐摩擦色牢度 GB/T 3922 纺织品 色牢度试验 耐汗渍色牢度 GB/T 4802.3 纺织品 织物起毛起球性能的测定 第3部分：起球箱法 GB/T 4841.3 染料染色标准深度色卡 2/1、1/3、1/6、1/12、1/25 GB/T 4856 针棉织品包装 GB/T 5296.4 消费品使用说明 第4部分：纺织品和服装 GB/T 5711 纺织品 色牢度试验 耐四氯乙烯干洗色牢度 GB/T 5713 纺织品 色牢度试验 耐水色牢度 GB/T 7742.1 纺织品 织物胀破性能 第1部分：胀破强力和胀破扩张度的测定 液压法 GB/T 7742.2 纺织品 织物胀破性能 第2部分：胀破强力和胀破扩张度的测定 气压法 GB/T 8427—2019 纺织品 色牢度试验 耐人造光色牢度：氙弧 GB/T 9994 纺织材料公定回潮率 GB/T 9995 纺织材料含水率和回潮率的测定 烘箱干燥法 GB/T 12490—2014 纺织品 色牢度试验 耐家庭和商业洗涤色牢度 GB/T 16988 特种动物纤维与绵羊毛混合物含量的测定 GB 18401 国家纺织产品基本安全技术规范 GB/T 19981.2 纺织品 织物和服装的专业维护、干洗和湿洗 第2部分：使用四氯乙烯干洗和整烫时性能试验的程序 GB/T 20944.3 纺织品 抗菌性能的评价 第3部分：振荡法 GB/T 23322 纺织品 表面活性剂的测定 烷基酚和烷基酚聚氧乙烯醚 GB/T 29862 纺织品 纤维含量的标识 GB/T 31127—2014 纺织品 色牢度试验 拼接互染色牢度 GB 31701 婴幼儿及儿童纺织产品安全技术规范 GB/T 31713 抗菌纺织品安全性卫生要求 GB/T 38015 纺织品 定量化学分析 氨纶与某些其他纤维的混合物 FZ/T 01026 纺织品 定量化学分析 多组分纤维混合物 FZ/T 01057(所有部分) 纺织纤维鉴别试验方法 FZ/T 01101 纺织品 纤维含量的测定 物理法 FZ/T 01112 纺织品 定量化学分析 蚕丝与羊毛或/和羊绒的混合物(甲酸/氯化锌法) FZ/T 20011—2006 毛针织成衣扭斜角试验方法 FZ/T 20018 毛纺织品中二氯甲烷可溶性物质的测定 FZ/T 20031 毛针织品缝迹伸长率试验方法 FZ/T 20032 毛针织品领圈拉开试验方法 FZ/T 30003 麻棉混纺产品定量分析方法 显微投影法 FZ/T 70008 毛针织物编织密度系数试验方法 FZ/T 70009 毛纺织产品经洗涤后松弛尺寸变化率和毡化尺寸变化率试验方法 GSB 16-2922 粗梳毛针织品起球标准样照 GSB 16-2923 精梳毛针织品起球标准样照 IWTO-66 毛织物刺痒感性能试验方法(Test method for the skin comfort of finished wool fab-rics) 3 术语和定义 下列术语和定义适用于本文件。 3.1 重缩绒毛针织品 boiled wool knitting goods 为达到设计要求的结构密度，在加工过程中进行了专门的毡缩处理的毛针织品。 4 产品分类 4.1 按品种分为： ——开衫、套衫、背心类； ——裤子、裙子类； ——大衣、西服类； ——衬衣类； ——内衣类； ——袜子类； ——小件服饰类(包括帽子、围巾、手套等)； ——拼接服装类。 4.2 按洗涤方式分为： ——干洗类； ——小心手洗类； ——可机洗类。 5 技术要求 5.1 安全性要求 毛针织品的基本安全技术要求应符合GB 18401的规定，儿童产品基本安全技术要求应符合GB 31701 的规定。 5.2 分等规定 5.2.1 毛针织品的品等分为优等品、一等品、合格品。 5.2.2 毛针织品的品等由内在质量和外观质量综合评定，并以其中最低一项定等。 5.2.3 内在质量按批评定，外观质量按件评定。 5.3 内在质量的评等 5.3.1 内在质量按表1和表2规定评等，并以检验结果中最低一项定等。 表1 内在质量要求 项目 优等品 一等品 合格品 纤维含量/％ 按GB/T 29862执行 胀破强力a/kPa ≥ 精梳 线密度≤31.2 tex (≥32 Nm) 245 线密度＞31.2 tex (＜32 Nm) 323 粗梳 线密度≤71.4 tex (≥14 Nm) 196 线密度＞71.4 tex (＜14 Nm) 225 起球b/级 ≥ 3-4 3 2-3 扭斜角c/(°) ≤ 5 二氯甲烷可溶性物质d/％ ≤ 1.5 1.7 2.5 烷基酚(AP)和烷基酚聚氧乙烯醚(APEO)/(mg/kg) ＜ NP＋OP 10 NP＋OP＋NPEO＋OPEO 100 干洗尺寸变化率c/％ 长度 —5.0～＋5.0 宽度 —5.0～＋5.0 编织密度系数f 按供需双方合约规定 单件质量偏差率g/％ 按供需双方合约规定 染色牢度/级 ≥ 耐光b，i 深色 4 4 4 浅色 3 3 3 耐洗j 变色 3-4 3-4 3 沾色 3-4 3 3 耐汗渍（酸、碱） 变色 3-4 3-4 3 沾色 3-4 3 3 耐水 变色 3-4 3-4 3 沾色 3-4 3 3 耐摩擦b 干摩 4 3-4（深色3） 3 湿摩 3 3（深色2-3） 3（深色2-3） 耐干洗k 变色 4 3-4 3-4 沾色 4 3-4 3 拼接互染h，l 4 a 胀破强力只考核平针部位面积占30％及以上的产品；背心和小件服饰类不考核；纱线线密度指编织所用纱线的总体线密度。 b 起球不考核重缩绒、镂空、长浮线，拉毛等特殊工艺产品;不考核袜子、小件服饰类产品;拼接服装只考核毛针织部分。 c 扭斜角只考核平针产品。 d 二氯甲烷可溶性物质只考核动物毛含量在30％及以上的粗梳部分，其中含聚酯纤维、丙纶、二醋酯纤维或三醋酯纤维的产品不考核。 e 干洗尺寸变化率不考核使用说明中标注不可干洗的产品。 f 编织密度系数只考核粗梳平针、罗纹和双罗纹产品。 g 单件质量偏差率不考核拼接产品。 h 根据GB/T 4841.3，＞1/12标准深度为深色，≤1/12标准深度为浅色。 i 内衣及袜子类产品不考核耐光色牢度。 j 耐洗色牢度不考核使用说明中标注不可水洗的产品。 k 耐干洗色牢度不考核使用说明中标注不可干洗的产品。 l 拼接互染色牢度只考核深浅色相拼产品，不考核使用说明中标注不可水洗的产品。 表2 水洗尺寸变化率指标要求 项目 要求 开衫、套衫、背心类 裤子、裙子、大衣、西服、拼接服装类 衬衣、内衣类 袜子类 小件服饰类 小心手洗类a，c 松弛尺寸变化率b/％ 长度 ≥—10.0 — ≥—10.0 — — 宽度 —8.0～＋5.0 — ≤＋5.0 — — 洗涤程序 1×4G 1×4G 1×4G 1×4G 1×4G 毡化尺寸变化率/％ 长度 — — ≥—10.0 — — 宽度 ≥—8.0 — ≥—8.0 — ≥—8.0 洗涤程序 1×4G 1×4G 1×4N 1×4N 1×4G 总尺寸变化率/％ 长度 ≥—5.0 ≥—5.0 — — — 宽度 ≥—5.0 ≤＋5.0 — — — 面积 ≥—8.0 — — — — 可机洗类a 松弛尺寸变化率b/％ 长度 ≥—10.0 — ≥—10.0 — — 宽度 —8.0～＋5.0 — ≤＋5.0 — — 洗涤程序 1×4G 1×4G 1×4G 1×4G 1×4G 毡化尺寸变化率/％ 长度 — — — ≥—10.0 — 面积 ≥—8.0 — ≥—8.0 — ≥—8.0 洗涤程序 2×4N 3×4N 5×4N 5×4N 2×4N 总尺寸变化率/％ 长度 — ≥—5.0 — — — 宽度 — ≤＋5.0 — — — a 小心手洗类和可机洗类不考核使用说明中标注不可水洗的产品。 b 松弛尺寸变化率宽度方向只考核平针产品。 c 小心手洗类中开衫、套衫，背心类的非重缩绒产品只考核松弛和毡化尺寸变化率;重缩绒产品只考核总尺寸变化率。 5.4 外观质量的评等 5.4.1 主要规格尺寸允许偏差 长度方向：80 cm及以上±2.0 cm，80 cm以下±1.5 cm； 宽度方向：55 cm及以上±1.5 cm，55 cm以下±1.0 cm； 对称性偏差：≤1.0 cm。 注1：主要规格尺寸偏差指上衣的衣长、胸阔(1/2胸围)、袖长；裤子的裤长、直裆、横裆；裙子的裙长、臀宽(1/2臀围)；围巾的宽、1/2长等实际尺寸与设计尺寸或标注尺寸的差异。 注2：对称性偏差指同件产晶的对称性差异，如上衣的两边袖长，裤子的两边裤长的差异。 5.4.2 缝迹伸长率 平缝不小于10％；包缝不小于20％；链缝不小于30％(包括手缝)。缝迹伸长率试验结果出现缝线断裂或织物破裂的现象，判定为不合格。 5.4.3 领圈拉开尺寸 7岁及以上儿童和成人：≥30 cm；7岁以下儿童：≥28 cm。领圈拉开尺寸试验结果出现缝线断裂或织物破裂的现象，判定为不合格。 5.4.4 外观疵点 外观疵点按表3评等。