标准编号:	GB/T 2664-2017
中文名称:	男西服、大衣
英文名称:	Men's suits and coats
中标分类:	Y76    服装、服饰品
行业分类:	GB    国家标准
ICS分类:	61.020 61.020    服装 61.020
发布机构:	中华人民共和国国家质量监督检验检疫总局 中国国家标准化管理委员会
发布日期:	2017-12-29
实施日期:	2018-7-1
标准状态:	现行
替代旧标准:	GB/T 2664-2009 男西服、大衣
翻译语言:	英文
文件格式:	PDF
中文字符数:	15000 字
翻译价格(元):	795.00 元
交付时间:	付款后 1 个工作日

Codeofchina.com is in charge of this English translation. In case of any doubt about the English translation, the Chinese original shall be considered authoritative.



This standard is developed in accordance with the rules given in GB/T 1.1-2009.



This standard replaces GB/T 2664-2009 Men’s Suits and Coats; the main changes have been made with respect to GB/T 2664-2009:



——the application scope of this standard is modified, and the requirement of not applicable to products for infants is added (see Chapter 1; Chapter 1 in 2009 edition);



——normative references are supplemented and modified (see Chapter 2; Chapter 2 in 2009 edition);



——relevant requirements of garments for children aged 3~14 years given in GB 31701 are added herein (see 3.1 and 3.12);



——the requirements of accessory materials are modified (see 3.3.3; 3.3.3 in 2009 edition);



——the requirements of strip and plaid pattern skewness are added (see 3.5.1);



——the appearance quality requirements are incorporated into sewing requirements (see 3.9; 3.9 and 3.11 in 2009 edition);



——the requirements of top and blind stitches and buttonholing stitch density are modified, and the requirements of button sewing stitch density are deleted (see 3.9.1; 3.9.1 in 2009 edition);



——the requirements for color fastness to perspiration and appearance after washing are added, and the requirements for seam performance (stitch slipping) and peeling strength of part with covered adhesive interlining are modified (see 3.12; 3.13 in 2009 edition);



——the measurement method for measurement method for specifications and dimensions is modified to "in accordance with GB/T 31907" (see 4.2; 4.2 in 2009 edition);



——the test method for safety performance of children's garments is added (see 4.4.1);



——the test method for dimensional change rate after dry cleaning is modified, and the requirement of adopting dedicate dry cleaning method is added (see 4.4.2; 4.4.7 in 2009 edition);



——the test method standard for color fastness to dry cleaning is updated, the principle is modified, the requirement of "the test shall be carried out with the specimen fit closely with adjacent fabric" is added, and the "solvent staining is assessed" is changed to "adjacent fabric staining" (see 4.4.4; 4.4.9 in 2009 edition);



——the test method for color fastness to light is modified (see 4.4.5; 4.4.13 in 2009 edition);



——the appearance test method after washing is added (see 4.4.8);



——the test method for point and edge sharpness of accessories is added (see 4.4.9);



——the testing methods of physical and chemical performance of garments are quoted (see 4.4.10);



——type inspection opportunity is added (see 5.1.1);



——the judgment basis for quality defect is modified (see 5.2.3; 5.2.2 in 2009 edition);



——re-inspection requirements are modified (see 5.4.4; 5.4.4 in 2009 edition);



——Annex A in 2009 edition is deleted, and the seam slippage test method complies with the requirements of GB/T 21294 (see 4.4.10; 4.4.15 in 2009 edition).



This standard was proposed by China National Textile and Apparel Council.



This standard is under the jurisdiction of National Technical Committee on Garments of Standardization Administration of China (SAC/TC 219).



The previous editions replaced by this standard are as follows:



——GB/T 2664-1993, GB/T 2664-2001 and GB/T 2664-2009.





Men's Suits and Coats



1 Scope



This standard specifies the requirements, inspection methods, inspection rules, and marking, packaging, transportation and storage of men's suits and coats.



This standard is applicable to men's suits and coats and other woolen garments produced with pure wool, wool blended and interwoven fabric, wool-like fabric and other woven fabric as the main fabric.



This standard is not applicable to garments for infants aged 36 months and below.



2 Normative References



The following documents for the application of this document are essential. Any dated reference, just dated edition applies to this document. For undated references, the latest edition (including any amendments) applies to this document.



GB/T 250 Textiles - Tests for Colour Fastness - Grey Scale for Assessing Change in Colour

GB/T 1335.1 Standard Sizing Systems for Garments - Men

GB/T 1335.3 Standard Sizing Systems for Garments - Children

GB/T 3917.2 Textiles - Tear Properties of Fabrics - Part 2: Determination of Tear Force of Trouser-shaped Test Specimens (Single Tear Method)

GB/T 3921-2008 Textiles - Tests for Colour Fastness - Colour Fastness to Washing with Soap or Soap and Soda

GB/T 4802.1 Textiles - Determination of Fabric Propensity to Surface Fuzzing and to Pilling - Part 1: Circular Locus Method

GB/T 4841.3 Colour Cards of Standard Depths for Dyeing with Dyestuffs 2/1, 1/3, 1/6, 1/12, 1/25

GB/T 5296.4 Instructions for Use of Products of Consumer Interest - Part 4: Textiles and Apparel

GB/T 5711 Textiles - Tests for Colour Fastness - Colour Fastness to Drycleaning Using Perchloroethylene Solvent

GB/T 8427-2008 Textiles - Tests for Colour Fastness - Color Fastness to Artificial Light: Xenon Arc Fading Lamp Test

GB/T 8629-2017 Textiles - Domestic Washing and Drying Procedures for Textile Testing

GB/T 8630 Textiles - Determination of Dimensional Change in Washing and Drying

GB/T 14304 Sizes for Woolen Suits

GB/T 14801 Test Method for Skewness and Bow in Woven and Knitted Fabrics

GB 18401 National General Safety Technical Code for Textile Products

GB/T 21294 Testing Methods of Physical and Chemical Performance of Garments

GB/T 21295-2014 Requirements of Physical and Chemical Performance of Garments

GB/T 29862 Textiles - Identification of Fiber Content

GB 31701 Safety Technical Code for Infants and Children Textile Products

GB/T 31702 Testing Method for Sharpness of Attached Components on Textile Products

GB/T 31907 Method of Garment Measurement

FZ/T 80002 Marking, Packaging, Transpiration and Storage for Garments

FZ/T 80004 Rule for Garments Delivery Inspection

FZ/T 80007.3 Dry Wash Resistance Test Method for Garments used Adhesive Interlining

GSB 16-2921-2012 Standard Sample Photos of Woolen Fabrics Pilling

GSB 16-2924-2012 Standard Sample Photos of Worsted Fabrics (Plain Surface) Pilling

GSB 16-2925-2012 Standard Sample Photos of Worsted Fabrics (Raised Surface) Pilling

Sample Photos of Surface Wrinkles of Men's Suits

Sample Photos of Surface Defects of Woolen Garments



3 Requirements



3.1 Instructions for use



Instructions for use shall be in accordance with those specified in GB/T 5296.4 and GB 31701.



3.2 Size specifications



3.2.1 Size designations shall be in accordance with those specified in GB/T 1335.1 and GB/T 1335.3.



3.2.2 The specifications of main parts shall be designed independently in accordance with the relevant requirements of GB/T 1335.1, GB/T 1335.3 and GB/T 14304.



3.3 Raw materials



3.3.1 Fabric



Fabric adopted shall meet the relevant quality requirements of this standard.



3.3.2 Lining



Lining adopted shall be suitable to the fabric adopted and meet the relevant quantity requirements of this standard.



3.3.3 Accessory materials

3.3.3.1 Interlining, shoulder pad, border lace and pocket bag



The interlining, shoulder pad, border lace and pocket bag adopted shall be suitable to the performance of the fabric and lining adopted, and their quality shall meet relevant requirements of this standard.

3.3.3.2 Stitch thread, drawstrings and cords, elastic ribbon



The stitch thread, drawstrings and cords, and elastic ribbon (except ornamental thread and tape) adopted shall be suitable to the performance of the fabric, lining and accessory materials adopted.

3.3.3.3 Button, zipper and other accessories



Button (excluding ornamental button), zipper and other accessories adopted shall be suitable to the fabric adopted. The surfaces of button, ornamental button, zipper and other accessories shall be smooth and free from burr, damage, defects and accessible sharp tip or edge. Zippers shall be good in meshing and operate smoothly.



Note: accessible sharp tip or edge refers to the sharp tip and edge on finished product that may hurt human skin under normal wearing.



3.4 Warp and weft yarn



The warp and weft yarn of fabric shall be in accordance with those specified in Table 1.



Table 1 In: cm

Part name Yarn direction requirement

Front Warp yarn shall be subject to the neck width line, without any skewness; the hem shall not upwarp

Back Warp yarn shall be subject to the back center line below waist line, with permissible skewness no greater than 0.5 for suits and no greater than 1.0 for coats; skewness is unallowable for yarn-dyed strip and plaid materials

Sleeve Warp yarn shall be subject to the seam line, with permissible skewness no greater than 1.0 for topside sleeve and no greater than 1.5 for underside sleeve (except the special craft)

Top collar Skewness of weft yarn shall not be greater than 0.5, and skewness is unallowable for yarn-dyed strip and plaid materials

Pocket flap It shall be consistent with the yarn direction of body piece; skewed fabric shall be in the bilateral symmetry

Facing Warp yarn shall be subject to the front edge, without any skewness



3.5 Strip and plaid matching



3.5.1 The skewness of strip and plaid pattern shall not be greater than 2% (except in special design).

3.5.2 Fabric with obvious stripes and plaids in width of 1.0cm or above shall be in accordance with those specified in Table 2.



Table 2 In: cm

Part name Strip and plaid matching requirements

Left and right fronts Strips shall match each other, and plaids shall match each other horizontally, with mutual deviation not greater than 0.3. They both shall be in bilateral symmetry

Breast pocket and front a Strips shall match each other, and plaids shall match each other, with mutual deviation not greater than 0.2

Side pocket and front Strips shall match each other, and plaids shall match each other, with mutual deviation not greater than 0.3

Sleeve and front Plaids above elbow line and those of the front shall match each other horizontally, with mutual deviation between two sleeves no greater than 0.5

Sleeve seam Plaids at elbow seam above elbow line shall match each other horizontally, with mutual deviation not greater than 0.3

Center back seam On the basis of the top, strips shall be symmetrical, and plaids shall match each other horizontally, with mutual deviation not greater than 0.2. They both shall be in bilateral symmetry

Center back seam and back top collar Strips shall match each other, with mutual deviation not greater than 0.2

Collar and lapel Strips and plaids shall be in bilateral symmetry, with mutual deviation not greater than 0.2

Side seam Plaids shall match each other horizontally at the part 10.0 below the armhole, with mutual deviation not greater than 0.3

Sleeve Strips and plaids shall be straight, and the mutual deviation between two sleeves relative to the sleeve top shall not be greater than 0.5

Note 1: The strips and plaids cycling per by colour shall match each other per the colour cycle.

Note 2: Special design is excluded.

a For the fabric with obvious strips and plaids in width of 0.5 or above and less than 1.0, the mutual deviation shall not be greater than 0.1.

3.5.3 As for the fabric going down or up and the checkerboard fabric, the forward direction shall be consistent on the whole garment.



3.6 Stitching



The coat facing may be applied in the way of two connections and one splicing to avoid buttonhole positions and be stitched between the lower first and second buttonholes on the lapel. Flange of suits and coats may be applied in the way of two connections and one splicing, while stitching is unallowable for other parts. Special design is excluded.



3.7 Color difference



3.7.1 The color difference between sleeve seam and side seam is not lower than Grade 4 while that of other surface parts is higher than Grade 4, and the color difference caused by influence of interlining is not lower than Grade 4 (except in special design).

3.7.2 The color difference between tops and bottoms in suits is not lower than Grade 4.



3.8 Appearance defect



The permissibility of defect at each part of the finished product shall be in accordance with those specified in Table 3, and see Figure 1 for the division of each part of the finished product. For high-grade products, defect is disallowed for front top collar and lapel, and only one kind of defect within the permissibility is allowed for other parts. The defects not listed in this standard may, according to their patterns, refer to the requirements of similar defects in Table 3.



Table 3

Defect name Permissibility of each part

Part 1 Part 2 Part 3

Yarn defect Not permissible Slight defect: with total length less than 1.0cm or total area less than 0.3cm2; visible defect: not permissible Slight defect: with total length less than 1.5cm or total area less than 0.5cm2; visible defect: not permissible

Neps (pcs) 1 3 5

Striation and crease Not permissible Slight defect: with total length less than 1.5cm or total area less than 1.0cm2; visible defect: not permissible Slight defect: with total length less than 2.0cm or total area less than 1.5cm2; visible defect: not permissible

Spots (oil stain, rust stain, color stain, water stain, etc.) Not permissible Slight defect: with total area less than or equal to 0.3cm2; visible defect: not permissible Slight defect: with total area less than or equal to 0.5cm2; visible defect: not permissible

Hole, abrasion and float loop Not permissible Not permissible Not permissible

Note: description of defect degree:

Slight defect: the defect which are invisible intuitively but recognizable if observed carefully.

Visible defect: the defect noticeable but not affecting the overall effect.







Figure 1



3.9 Sewing

3.9.1 Stitch density shall be in accordance with those specified in Table 4, except in special design.



Table 4

Item Stitch density Remarks

Top and blind stitch Not less than 11 stitches/3cm —

Overlock stitch Not less than 11 stitches/3cm —

Manual stitch Not less than 7 stitches/3cm Not less than 9 stitches/3cm on shoulder seam, armhole or collar

Hand-made/machine-made front edge Not less than 5 stitches/3 cm —

Catch stitch Not less than 5 stitches/3 cm Calculated by one side

Buttonholing Thin thread Not less than 12 stitches/1 cm —

Thick thread Not less than 9 stitches/1 cm —

Note: thin thread refers to the sewing thread of 20 tex or below; thick thread refers to the sewing thread above 20 tex.

3.9.2 The sewing line on each part shall be straight, regular and firm. The crimple sewed at main surface parts shall comply with the Sample Photos of Surface Wrinkles of Men's Suits and shall not be lower than Grade 4.



3.9.3 The seam allowance width is not less than 0.8cm (except slit pocket, collar front edge and front edge). The bias tape and band shall be flat and smooth and also be consistent in width. The place of stitching rising and falling shall be back stitched.

3.9.4 The upper and lower threads shall be in proper elasticity, without skipping stitching, broken stitching, loose stitching or continuous thread end. The base thread shall not be exposed. Top stitch and chain stitch on each part shall be free from skipping stitch, and connection is disallowed in case of top stitch; other sewing stitches shall be free from continuous skipping stitches or more than one individual skipping stitch within 30cm.



3.9.5 The top collar shall be flat and smooth and in proper elasticity, the neck line shall be round and smooth, the left and right collar points shall not upwarp. The gorge line and roll line of lapel shall be straight, the left and right lapels shall be symmetrical in terms of width and collar notch size, and the collar inclination shall be appropriate.

3.9.6 The setting in sleeve shall be round and smooth with uniform easing, and two sleeves shall be consistent with each other at the front and back and in term of length.

3.9.7 The front chest shall be stiff, smooth and symmetrical, the fabric, lining and interlining shall fit closely, and the dart shall be straight.

3.9.8 The left and right pockets and the pocket flaps shall be symmetrical up and down and at front and back, the pocket flap shall be suitable to the width of pocket mouth, the pattern of pocket flap shall be consistent with that of body piece (shall be in bilateral symmetry if skewed fabric is used). The pocket bag and its padding shall be applied with clean finish hem, overlock stitch or other processes, to ensure no slipping of edge yarn. Both ends of pocket mouth shall be firm, and back stitching may be carried out with tacking machine or lockstitch sewing machine (blind stitch).

3.9.9 The back shall be flat and smooth.

3.9.10 Shoulder shall be flat and smooth and without any winkle on surface, and the shoulder seam shall be straight and be in bilateral symmetry.



3.9.11 As for the armhole, sleeve seam, hem, cuff, facing opening, coat side seam, etc., fastening stitch shall be firm.



3.9.12 The buttonhole is accurately positioned and in proper size. The button and buttonhole shall be aligned and sewed firmly. The button shank shall be suitable in height, and the knot shall not be exposed.

3.9.13 The trademark and permanent label shall be upright, flat and smooth.

Foreword I
1 Scope
2 Normative References
3 Requirements
4 Inspection Methods
5 Inspection Rules
6 Marking, Packaging, Transportation and Storage

男西服、大衣
1 范围
本标准规定了男西服和大衣的要求、检验方法、检验规则，以及标志、包装、运输和贮存。
本标准适用于以纯毛、毛混纺及交织、仿毛等机织物为主要面料生产的男西服和大衣等毛呢类服装。
本标准不适用于年龄在36个月及以下的婴幼儿服装。
2规范性引用文件
下列文件对于本文件的应用是必不可少的。凡是注日期的引用文件，仅注日期的版本适用于本文件。凡是不注日期的引用文件，其最新版本(包括所有的修改单)适用于本文件。
GB/T 250 纺织品 色牢度试验 评定变色用灰色样卡
GB/T 1335.1 服装号型 男子
GB/T 1335.3 服装号型 儿童
GB/T 3917.2 纺织品 织物撕破性能 第2部分：裤形试样(单缝)撕破强力的测定
GB/T 3921—2008 纺织品 色牢度试验 耐皂洗色牢度
GB/T 4802.1 纺织品 织物起毛起球性能的测定 第1部分：网轨迹法
GB/T 4841.3 染料染色标准深度色卡 2/1、1/3、1/6、1/12、1/25
GB/T 5296.4 消费品使用说明 第4部分：纺织品和服装
GB/T 5711 纺织品 色牢度试验 耐四氯乙烯干洗色牢度
GB/T 8427—2008 纺织品 色牢度试验 耐人造光色牢度：氙弧
GB/T 8629 2017 纺织品 试验用家庭洗涤和干燥程序
GB/T 8630 纺织品 洗涤和干燥后尺寸变化的测定
GB/T 14304 毛呢套装规格
GB/T 14801 机织物与针织物纬斜和弓纬试验方法
GB 18401 国家纺织产品基本安全技术规范
GB/T 21294服装理化性能的检验方法
GB/T 21295—2014 服装理化性能的技术要求
GB/T 29862 纺织品 纤维含量的标识
GB 31701 婴幼儿及儿童纺织产品安全技术规范
GB/T 31702纺织制品附件锐利性试验方法
GB/T 31907服装测量方法
FZ/T 80002 服装标志、包装、运输和贮存
FZ/T 80004 服装成品出厂检验规则
FZ/T 80007.3使用粘合衬服装耐干洗测试方法
GSB 16-2921—2012 粗梳毛织品起球标准样照
GSB 16-2924—2012 精梳毛织品(光面)起球标准样照
GSB 16-2925—2012 精梳毛织品(绒面)起球标准样照
男西服外观起皱样照
男女毛呢服装外观疵点样照
3 要求
3.1 使用说明
使用说明按GB/T 5296.4和GB 31701的规定。
3.2 号型规格
3.2.1 号型设置按GB/T 1335.1和GB/T 1335.3的规定。
3.2.2 主要部位规格按GB/T 1335.1、GB/T 1335.3和GB/T 14304中的有关规定自行设计。
3.3 原材料
3.3.1 面料
采用符合本标准相关质量要求的面料。
3.3.2 里料
采用与所用面料相适宜并符合本标准相关质量要求的里料。
3.3.3辅料
3.3.3.1衬布、垫肩、装饰花边、袋布
采用与所用面料、里料的性能相适宜的衬布、垫肩、装饰花边、袋布，其质量应符合本标准相关规定。
3.3.3.2缝线、绳带、松紧带
采用与所用面料、里料、辅料的性能相适宜的缝线、绳带、松紧带(装饰线、装饰带除外)。
3.3.3.3钮扣、拉链及其他附件
采用适合所用面料的钮扣(装饰扣除外)、拉链及其他附件。钮扣、装饰扣、拉链及其他附件应表面光洁、无毛刺、无缺损、无残疵、无可触及锐利尖端和锐利边缘。拉链啮合良好、顺滑流畅。
注：可触及锐利尖端和锐利边缘是指在正常穿着条件下，成品上可能对人体皮肤造成伤害的锐利尖端和边缘。
3.4经纬纱向
面料经纬纱向按表1规定。
表1 单位为厘米
部位名称 纱向规定
前身 经纱以领口宽线为准，不允许歪斜；底边不倒翘
后身 经纱以腰节下背中线为准，西服歪斜不大于0.5，大衣歪斜不大于1.0；色织条格料不允许歪斜
袖子 经纱以时袖缝直线为准，大袖片歪斜不大于1.0，小袖片歪斜不大于1.5(特殊工艺除外)
领面 纬纱歪斜不大于0.5，色织条格料不允许歪斜

表1(续) 单位为厘米
部 位 名 称 纱向规定
袋 盖 与大身纱向一致，斜料左右对称
挂 面 经纱以止口直线为准，不允许歪斜

3.5对条对格
3.5.1 条格花型歪斜程度不大于2％(特殊设计除外)。
3.5.2面料有明显条、格，宽度在1.0 cm及以上的按表2规定。
表2 单位为厘米
部位名称 对条、对格规定
左右前身 条料对条，格料对横，互差不大于0.3。左右对称
手巾袋与前身a 条料对条，格料对格，互差不大于0.2
大袋与前身 条料对条，格料对格，互差不大于0.3
袖与前身 袖肘线以上与前身格料对横，两袖互差不大于0.5
袖 缝 袖肘线以上，后袖缝格料对横，互差不大于0.3
背 缝 以上部为准，条料对称，格料对横，互差不大于0.2。左右对称
背缝与后领面 条料对条，互差不大于0.2
领子、驳头 条格料左右对称，互差不大于0.2
摆 缝 袖窿以下10.0处，格料对横，互差不大于0.3
袖 子 条格顺直；以袖山为准，两袖互差不大于0.5
注1：有颜色循环的条、格按循环对条对格。
注2：特殊设计除外。
a 面料有明显条、格在0.5及以上且小于1.0的，互差不大于0.1。

3.5.3倒顺毛、阴阳格原料，全身顺向一致。
3.6拼接
大衣挂面允许两接一拼，避开扣眼位，在驳头上点下一至二档扣眼之间拼接。西服、大衣耳朵皮允许两接一拼，其他部位不允许拼接。特殊设计除外。
3.7 色差
3.7.1 袖缝、摆缝色差不低于4级，其他表面部位高于4级，衬布影响造成的色差不低于4级(特殊设计除外)。
3.7.2套装中上装与下装的色差不低于4级。
3.8外观疵点
成品各部位疵点允许存在程度按表3规定。成品各部位划分见图1。优等品前领面及驳头不允许出现疵点，其他部位只允许一种允许存在程度内的疵点。未列入本标准的疵点按其形态，参照表3中相似疵点规定。
表3
疵 点 名 称 各部位允许存在程度
1号部位 2号部位 3号部位
纱疵 不允许 轻微，总长度1.0 cm或总面积0.3 cm2以下；明显不允许 轻微，总长度1.5 cm或总面积0.5 cm2以下；明显不允许
毛粒 1个 3个 5个
条印、折痕 不允许 轻微，总长度1.5 cm或总面积1.0 cm2以下；明显不允许 轻微，总长度2.0 cm或总面积1.5 cm2以下；明显不允许
斑疵(油污、锈斑、色斑、水渍等) 不允许 轻微，总面积不大于0.3 cm2；明显不允许 轻微，总面积不大于0.5 cm2；明显不允许
破洞、磨损、蛛网 不允许 不允许 不允许
注：疵点程度描述：
轻微：疵点在直观上不明显，通过仔细辨认才可看出。
明显：不影响总体效果，但能明显感觉到疵点的存在。

腰围线
图1
3.9 缝制
3.9.1针距密度按表4规定，特殊设计除外。
表4
项 目 针距密度 备 注
明暗线 不少于11针/3 cm —
包缝线 不少于11针/3 cm —

表4(续)
项 目 针 距密度 备 注
手工针 不少于7针/3 cm 肩缝、袖窿、领子不低于9针/3 cm
手拱止口/机拱止口 不少于5针/3 cm —
三角针 不少于5针/3 cm 以单面计算
锁 眼 细线 不少于12针/1 cm —
粗线 不少于9针/1 cm —
注：细线指20 tex及以下缝纫线；粗线指20 tex以上缝纫线。

3.9.2各部位缝制线路顺直、整齐、牢固。主要表面部位缝制皱缩按男西服外观起皱样照规定，不低于4级。
3.9.3 缝份宽度不小于0.8 cm(开袋、领止口、门襟止口缝份等除外)。滚条、压条要平服，宽窄一致。起落针处应有同针。
3.9.4上下线松紧适宜，无跳线、断线、脱线、连根线头。底线不得外露。各部位明线和链式线迹不允许跳针，明线不允许接线，其他缝纫线迹30 cm内不得有连续跳针或一处以上单跳针。
3.9.5 领面平服，松紧适宜，领窝圆顺，左右领尖不翘。驳头串口、驳口顺直，左右驳头宽窄、领嘴大小对称，领翘适宜。
3.9.6绱袖圆顺，吃势均匀，两袖前后、长短一致。
3.9.7前身胸部挺括、对称，面、里、衬服贴，省道顺直。
3.9.8左右袋及袋盖高、低、前、后对称，袋盖与袋口宽相适应，袋盖与大身的花纹一致(若使用斜料，则应左右对称)。袋布及其垫料应采取折光边或包缝等工艺，以保证边缘纱线不滑脱。袋口两端牢固，可采用套结机或平缝机(暗线)回针。
3.9.9后背平服。
3.9.10肩部平服，表面没有褶，肩缝顺直，左右对称。
3.9.11 袖窿、袖缝、底边、袖口、挂面里口、大衣摆缝等部位叠针牢固。
3.9.12 锁眼定位准确，大小适宜，扣与眼对位，整齐牢固。钮脚高低适宜，线结不外露。
3.9.13商标和耐久性标签位置端正、平服。
3.10规格尺寸允许偏差
成品主要部位规格尺寸允许偏差按表5规定。
表5 单位为厘米
部 位 名 称 规格尺寸允许偏差
领 大 ±0.6
总肩宽 ±0.6
胸 围 ±2.0
衣 长 西 服 ±1.0
大 衣 ±1.5
袖 长 圆 袖 ±0.7
连肩袖 ±1.2

3.11 整烫
3.11.1 各部位熨烫平服、整洁，无烫黄、水渍、亮光。
3.11.2 覆粘合衬部位不允许有脱胶、渗胶、起皱及起泡，各部位表面不允许有沾胶。
3.12理化性能
成品的理化性能按表6规定，其中，3岁以上至14岁儿童穿着服装的安全性能还应同时符合GB 31701的规定。
表6
项 目 分等要 求
优等品 一等品 合格品
纤维含量/％ 符合GB/T 29862规定
甲醛含量/(mg/kg) 符合GB 18401规定
pH值
可分解致癌芳香胺染料/(mg/kg)
异味
尺寸变化率/％ 水 洗a 胸 围 -1.0～+1.0
衣 长 -1.5～+1.5
干洗a 胸 围 -0.8～+0.8
衣 长 -1.0～+1.0
面料色牢度/级
≥ 耐皂洗a 变 色 4 3-4 3-4
沾 色 4 3-4 3
耐干洗a 变 色 4-5 4 3-4
沾 色 4-5 4 3-4
耐 水 变 色 4 4 3-4
沾 色 4 3-4 3
耐汗渍 变 色 4 3-4 3
(酸、碱) 沾 色 4 3-4 3
耐摩擦 干摩擦 4 3-4 3
湿摩擦a 3-4 3 2-3
耐 光 浅 色 4 3 3
深 色 4 4 3
里料色牢度/级
≥ 耐皂洗a 沾 色 4 3-4 3
耐干洗a 沾 色 4 4 3-4
耐 水 变 色 4 3-4 3
沾 色 4 3-4 3
耐汗渍 变 色 3-4 3 3
(酸、碱) 沾 色 3-4 3 3
耐干摩擦 4 3-4 3-4

表6(续)
项 目 分等要求
优等品 一等品 合格品
装饰件和绣花色牢度/级
≥ 耐皂洗a 沾色 3-4
耐干洗a 沾色 3-4
覆粘合衬部位剥离强力b/N≥ 6
面料起毛起球/级≥ 精梳(绒面) 3-4 3 3
精梳(光面) 4 3-4 3-4
粗梳 3-4 3 3
接缝性能c 精梳面料 缝子纰裂程度≤0.6 cm
粗梳面料 缝子纰裂程度≤0.7 cm
里 料 缝子纰裂程度≤0.6 cm
面料撕破强力/N≥ 10
洗涤后外观a 干洗后起皱级差/级 >4 ≥4 ≥3
其他 样品经洗涤(包括水洗、干洗)后应符合GB/T 21295—2014表13中外观质量规定
注：按GB/T 4841.3规定，颜色深于1/12染料染色标准深度为深色，颜色不深于1/12染料染色标准深度为浅色。
a 水洗尺寸变化率、耐皂洗色牢度、耐湿摩擦色牢度和水洗后外观不考核使用说明注明不可水洗产品；干洗尺寸变化率、耐干洗色牢度和干洗后外观不考核使用说明注明不可干洗产品。
b 仅考核领子和大身部位。粗梳面料产品不考核。非织造布粘合衬如在剥离强力试验中无法剥离，则不考核此项目。
c 袖笼缝不考核里料。纰裂试验结果出现纱线滑脱、织物撕破或缝线断裂现象判定接缝性能不符合要求。

4检验方法
4.1检验工具
4.1.1钢卷尺或直尺，分度值为1 mm。
4.1.2评定变色用灰色样卡(GB/T 250)。
4.1.3男西服外观起皱样照。
4.1.4男女毛呢服装外观疵点样照。
4.1.5粗梳毛织品起球标准样照(GSB 16-2921—2012)、精梳毛织品(光面)起球标准样照(GSB 16-2924—2012)、精梳毛织品(绒面)起球标准样照(GSB 16-2925—2012)。
4.1.6胸架(或人体模型)。
4.2规格测定
主要部位规格尺寸测量方法按GB/T 31907规定。规格尺寸允许偏差按表5规定。
4.3 外观测定
4.3.1 外观检验一般采用灯光照明，照度不低于600 lx，有条件时也可采用北空光照明。
4.3.2纱线歪斜程度测定按GB/T 1480 1规定。
4.3.3测定色差程度时，被测部位必须纱向一致，采用北空光照射，或用600 lx及以上的等效光源。入射光与被测物约成45°角，观察方向与被测物大致垂直，距离60 cm目测，与GB/T 250样卡对比。
4.3.4外观疵点允许存在程度测定时，距离60 cm目测，并与男女毛呢服装外观疵点样照对比，必要时采用钢卷尺或直尺进行测量。
4.3.5缝制按3.9规定，成品宜穿着在胸架(或人体模型)上进行检验。针距密度在成品缝纫线迹上任取3 cm测量(厚薄部位除外)。
4.4理化性能测定
4.4.1 儿童服装安全性能按GB 31701规定测试。
4.4.2水洗尺寸变化率按GB/T 8630规定测试，采用GB/T 8629—2017，A型标准洗衣机，洗涤程序4G，明示手洗的采用洗涤程序4H，干燥方法采用程序A。干洗后的尺寸变化率按FZ/T 80007。3规定测试，采用缓和干洗法，并在批量中随机抽取三件成品测试，结果取三件的平均值。
4.4.3耐皂洗色牢度按GB/T 3921—2008方法A(1)规定测试。
4.4.4耐干洗色牢度按GB/T 5711规定测试。
4.4.5 耐光色牢度按GB/T 8427—2008规定测试，其中曝晒按方法3，晒至第一阶段。
4.4.6 成品的起毛起球的测定按GB/T 4802.1规定，与粗梳毛织品起球标准样照(GSB 16-2921—2012)、精梳毛织品(光面)起球标准样照(GSB 16-2924—2012)、精梳毛织品(绒面)起球标准样照(GSB 16-2925—2012)对比。绒面精梳毛织品起球次数为400次，仿毛产品起毛起球压力与次数同精梳毛织品或粗梳毛织品。
4.4.7撕破强力按GB/T 3917.2规定测试。
4.4.8洗涤后外观测试方法，样品经4.4.2进行洗涤、干燥后，结合表6要求，按GB/T 21294中的评定方式评定，其中起皱级差参照男西服外观起皱样照评定。
4.4.9 附件尖端和边缘的锐利性按GB/T 31702规定测试。
4.4.10 其他理化性能项目按GB/T 21294规定测试。其中耐干洗、耐皂洗、耐汗渍、耐水色牢度仲裁试验选择单纤维贴衬。
4.4.11 未提及取样部位的测试项目，可按测试需要在成品上选取试样。