标准编号:	GB/T 14272-2021
中文名称:	羽绒服装
英文名称:	Down garments
中标分类:	Y76    服装、服饰品
行业分类:	GB    国家标准
ICS分类:	61.020 61.020    服装 61.020
发布机构:	国家市场监督管理总局 国家标准化管理委员会
发布日期:	2021-03-09
实施日期:	2022-4-1
标准状态:	现行
替代旧标准:	GB/T 14272-2011 羽绒服装
翻译语言:	英文
文件格式:	PDF
中文字符数:	25000 字
翻译价格(元):	1300.00 元
交付时间:	付款后 1 个工作日

Codeofchina.com is in charge of this English translation. In case of any doubt about the English translation, the Chinese original shall be considered authoritative.



This document is developed in accordance with the rules given in GB/T 1. 1-2020 Directives for standardization—Part 1: Rules for the structure and drafting of standardizing documents.



This standard replaces GB/T 14272-2011 Down garment. The following main technical changes have been made with respect to GB/T 14272-2011:



a) “Application scope” is modified (see Clause 1 hereof; Clause 1 of Edition 2011);



b) “Normative references” is supplemented and modified (see Clause 2 hereof; Clause 2 of Edition 2011) .



c) “Terms and definitions" is modified (see Clause 3 hereof; Clause 3 of Edition 2011);



d) Requirements of label review are modified. “Net fill weight" is changed to "down cluster"; the marking and grading of the down content are added (see 4.1 hereof; 4.1 of Edition 2011).



e) Requirements of raw materials are changed (see 4.3 hereof; 4.3 of Edition 2011).



f) Sewing requirements are changed (see 4.8 hereof; 4.9 of Edition 2011).



g) The requirements for permissible deviation of the specifications and dimensions are changed (see 4.9 hereof; 4.10 of Edition 2011).



h) Ironing requirements are changed (see 4.10 hereof; 4.11 of Edition 2011).



i) Physical and chemical performance requirements are changed. The following requirements are added: down garments for infants and children shall also meet the requirements of GB 31701; limit requirements for the Alkylphenols (AP) and Alkylphenol ethoxylates (APnEO) in down filler; assessment requirements for color fastness to perspiration, color fastness to cross-staining, and appearance after washing; the assessment requirements for colour fastness to washing and staining, color fastness to wet rubbing, color fastness to light, seam slippage and down penetration resistance are changed (see 4.11 hereof; 4.12 of Edition 2011).



j) Inspection methods are modified (see Clause 5 hereof; Clause 5 of Edition 2011);



k) Annex A "Requirements for down quality" is changed (see Annex A hereof; Annex A of Edition 2011).



l) Annex B "Test method for net fill weight of garments" is changed (See Annex B hereof; Annex B of Edition 2011).



m) Annex C "Test method for feather and down" is deleted (see Annex C of Edition 2011).



n) Method for "determination of down fill power—steam reduction method" is added (see Annex C).



o) Annex D "Test methods for slipping degree of seam", Annex E "Test method of the fabric down-drilling-resistant property-friction test method" and Annex F "Microstructures and features of goose and duck feather and down" are deleted (see Annex D, Annex E and Annex F of Edition 2011).



p) Annex D "Test method for down penetration resistance of down garments—tumble test" is added (see Annex D hereof).



Attention is drawn to the possibility that some of the elements of this document may be the subject of patent rights. The issuing body of this document shall not be held responsible for identifying any or all such patent rights.



This standard was proposed by the China National Textile and Apparel Council.



This standard is under the jurisdiction of National Technical Committee on Garments of Standardization Administration of China (SAC/TC 219).



The previous edition of this standard is as follows:



This standard was first issued in 1993 with the serial number of GB/T 14272-1993 and first revised in 2002 and second revised in 2011;



——This is the third revision.





Down garments



1 Scope



This standard specifies terms and definitions, requirements, inspection methods, inspection rules as well as marking, packaging, transportation and storage of down garments.



This document is applicable to garments consisting of woven fabrics as main fabrics and down filling. Other fillings may be used for placket, bag cover, hood, collar and other small parts.



This document does not apply to garments which are filled with down and fiber or filled with fiber in a layered or compartmentalized manner.



2 Normative references



The following documents contain provisions which, through reference in this text, constitute provisions of this document. For dated references, only the edition cited applies. For undated references, the latest edition of the referenced document (including any amendments) applies.



GB/T 250 Textiles—Tests for color fastness—Grey scale for assessing change in color

GB/T 1335 (All parts) Standard sizing systems for garments

GB/T 3921-2008 Textiles—Tests for colour fastness—Colour fastness to washing with soap or soap and soda

GB/T 5296.4 Instructions for use of products of consumer interest—Part 4: Textiles and apparel

GB/T 6529 Textiles—Standard atmospheres for conditioning and testing

GB/T 8170 Rules of rounding off for numerical values & expression and judgment of limiting values

GB/T 8427-2019 Textiles—Tests for colour fastness—Colour fastness to artificial light: Xenon arc fading lamp test

GB/T 8629-2017 Textiles—Domestic washing and drying procedures for textile testing

GB/T 10288-2016 Test method for down and feather

GB/T 14801 Test method for skewness and bow in woven and knitted fabrics

GB/T 15557 Standard terminology relating to apparel

GB/T 17685 Down and feather

GB 18401 National general safety technical code for textile products



GB/T 21294 Testing methods of physical and chemical performance of garments

GB/T 21295-2014 Requirements of physical and chemical performance of garments

GB/T 23322-2018 Textiles—Determination of surfactant—Alkylphenols and alkylphenol ethoxylates

GB/T 29862 Textiles—Identification of fiber content

GB/T 31127-2014 Textiles—Tests for colour fastness—Colour fastness to transfer in joints

GB 31701 Safety technical code for infants and children textile products

GB/T 31702 Testing method for sharpness of attached components on textile products

GB/T 31907 Method of garment measurement

FZ/T 80002 Marking, packaging, transportation and storage for garments

FZ/T 80004 Rule for garments delivery inspection

Sample photo of Grade 5 appearance defects and sewing wrinkle of down garments (The Ministry of Textile Industry of the People's Republic of China)

Sample photos of appearance defects on M&F unlined and cotton wadded garments and girls’ and boys' unlined garments (Ministry of Textile Industry of the People's Republic of China)



3 Terms and definitions



For the purposes of this document, the terms and definitions given in GB/T 17685 and GB/T 15557, as well as the following, apply.



3.1

down garments

garments with down filler and down cluster not less than 50%



3.2

filling shell

fabric or non-woven fabric wrapped with down between the shell fabric and the lining



3.3

baby and infant

children aged 36 months and below



Note: It generally refer to children up to and including a height of 100 cm.



4 Requirements



4.1 Instructions for use



It shall comply with GB/T 5296.4 and GB 31701. The down filler shall be marked with the down category, down cluster content and net fill weight. Down cluster content shall be marked and graded according to Table A.1 in Annex A.



4.2 Size specification



4.2.1 Size specification shall be set according to the requirements of GB/T 1335 (all parts).



4.2.2 The specification of primary parts shall be designed independently in accordance with the relevant requirements of GB/T 1335 (all parts).



4.3 Raw materials



4.3.1 Shell fabric



Shell fabrics that meet the requirements of this document should be used, and shell fabrics that are directly quilted with down shall have down penetration resistance.



4.3.2 Lining and filling shell



4.3.2.1 The lining and filling shell should fit with the shell fabrics used and meet the requirements of this document.



4.3.2.2 Air-tight fabrics and films shall not be used.



4.3.2.3 The lining and filling shell which are directly quilted with down shall have down penetration resistance.



4.3.3 Filler



4.3.3.1 The indicated value of down cluster content shall not be lower than 50%.



4.3.3.2 The net fill weight of the garments is deviated from the indicated value by not less than -5.0%.



4.3.3.3 The down quality requirements are in accordance with Annex A.



Note: Other indexes of down filler beyond this document shall be determined by the seller and the buyer according to the product requirements.



4.3.4 Accessory materials



4.3.4.1 Interlining, shoulder pad, border lace, bagging



Interlining, shoulder pad, border lace and bagging used should be suitable for the performance of the shell fabrics and lining and shall meet the quality requirements of this standard.



4.3.4.2 Stitch thread, rope belt, elastic ribbon



Stitch thread, rope belt and elastic ribbon (except ornamental thread and belt) used should be suitable for the performance of the shell fabric, lining and accessory materials.



4.3.4.3 Buttons, zippers and other accessories



Buttons (except ornamental buttons), zippers and other accessories used should be suitable for the shell fabrics. Button, ornamental button, zipper and other accessories shall be smooth in surface, and free of burr, damage, defect and accessible sharp tip or edge. The zipper shall mesh in good condition and run smoothly.



Note: Accessible sharp tip or edge are the sharp edge and tip on finished product that may cause harm to human skin under normal wearing.



4.4 Warp and weft yarn



4.4.1 The front warp yarn shall be subject to the placket line and shall not be inclined.



4.4.2 The back warp yarn shall be subject to the back center line, and the inclination shall not be greater than 1.0 cm. The coat shall not be inclined more than 1.5 cm, and the checkered materials shall not be inclined.



4.4.3 The warp yarn of the sleeve shall be subject to the straight line of the front sleeve seam, and the inclination of top sleeve and under sleeve shall not be more than 1.0cm and 1.5 cm (except for special process) respectively.



4.4.4 The front hem shall not be warped, and the yarn skew of the back, sleeves and front and back pants (skirts) shall be as specified in Table 1.



Table 1

%

Shell fabric Skew degree

Superior product First-grade product Acceptable product

Varied color/design and color ≤3 ≤4 ≤5

Strip and plaid matching ≤2 ≤2.5 ≤3



4.5 Strip and plaid matching



4.5.1 Obvious strips or plaids of 1.0 cm or above on shell fabric shall comply with those specified in Table 2.



Table 2

In: cm

Position Requirements for strip and plaid matching Remarks

Left and right fronts Strips shall be straight and plaids shall match each other horizontally with the mutual deviation not greater than 0.3 The plaid size is inconsistent and the upper part of 1/3 of the front shall prevail

Pocket, pocket flap and bodice a Strips are matched with each other and plaids are matched each other horizontally, with the mutual deviation not greater than 0.3 If the sizes of plaids are different, the center on the forepart of pocket shall prevail

Collar corner Strips and plaids are symmetrical bilaterally, with the mutual deviation not greater than 0.3 In case of shadow strips and plaids, apparent strips and plaids shall prevail

Sleeves The two sleeves shall be smooth and straight, and strip and plaid shall be symmetrical by the sleeve top with the mutual deviation not greater than 1.0 —

Side seam of trousers (skirt) Plaids shall match each other horizontally 10.0 below the side seam pocket mouth, with the mutual deviation not greater than 0.5 —

Front and back crotch seam Strips and plaids shall be symmetrical, and plaids shall match each other horizontally with the mutual deviation not greater than 0.5 —

Notes:

1 The strips and plaids with color cycling shall be matched with each other based on the cycle.

2 Except for special design.

a For shell fabrics with obvious strips and plaids between 0.5 (inclusive) and 1.0, their mutual deviation is not more than 1/5 of the strips and plaids.



4.5.2 The grain direction of nip-up and down pile and checkerboard fabric is consistent all over the body.



4.5.3 Shell fabric with special pattern shall be subject to the main pattern and the grain direction all over the body shall be consistent.



4.6 Chromatic aberration



4.6.1 The chromatic aberration of sleeve seam, side seam and crotch seam shall not be lower than Grade 3-4, otherwise the chromatic aberration shall not be lower than Grade 4. Chromatic aberration arising from multi-layer fabrics or adhesive lining is not lower than Grade 3-4.



4.6.2 The chromatic aberration between tops and bottoms of suits shall not be lower than Grade 3-4.



4.7 Appearance defects



The defects allowed for each garments part shall comply with those specified in Table 3. See Figure 1 for each garment part. Only one kind of defect is allowed in each part, and the allowable defect degree meets the requirements in Table 3.



Table 3

Defect Degree at each part

Part 1 Part 2 Part 3

Yarn fault Slight fault, with a total length of 1.0 cm or less; obvious fault is not allowed Slight fault, with a total length of 2.0 cm or less; obvious fault is not allowed Slight fault, with a total length of 4.0 cm or less; obvious fault, with a total length of 2.0 cm or less

Granulated rough yarn Not allowed Not allowed Not allowed

Weft bar Not allowed Obvious one is not allowed One not wider than 0.2 cm

Spots (oil stain and color spot) Not allowed Slight one, with the total area not more than 0.3am2; obvious one is not allowed Slight one, with the total area not more than 0.5 cm2; obvious one is not allowed

Holes, abrasions, cobwebs Not allowed Not allowed Not allowed

Note: Description of defect degree:

——Slight: defects which are invisible intuitively but recognizable by careful identification.

——Obvious: defects which have no influence on the overall effect, but can be obviously felt.



 



a) Division of front and back parts

Figure 1 Each garment part





b) Hats





c) Division of long front and back parts

Figure 1 Each garment part (continued)





d) Trousers



Keys of index numbers:

1——Part 1;

2——Part 2;

3——Part 3.



Figure 1 Each garment part (continued)



4.8 Sewing



4.8.1 See Table 4 for the symmetry of horizontal surface basting.



Table 4

In: cm

Part Symmetry of horizontal surface basting

Overlap For the left and right front basting, the mutual deviation is not greater than 0.4

No overlap For the left and right front basting, the mutual deviation is not greater than 0.3

Sleeve line The basting is aligned and the mutual deviation is not greater than 0.6

Side seam The basting is aligned from front to back and the mutual deviation is not greater than 0.6

Inseam The basting is aligned from front to back and the mutual deviation is not greater than 0.8



4.8.2 The longitudinal surface basting shall be bilaterally symmetrical.



4.8.3 The stitch density shall comply with those specified in Table 5.



Table 5

Item Stitch density Remarks

Top and blind stitches Not less than 12 stitches/3cm Except for special design

Quilted stitch Not less than 9 stitches/3cm —

Buttonhole Not less than 14 stitches/1 cm Thin thread

Over-lock stitch Not less than 9 stitches/3cm —

Note: Thin thread is 20 tex or below.



4.8.4 The sewing of all parts shall be smooth, straight, regular and firm. The wrinkle and shrinkage in main surface sewing parts shall not be lower than Grade 3 according to the requirements of Sample photo of Grade 5 appearance defects and sewing wrinkle of down garments.



4.8.5 The upper and lower threads are approximate in the elasticity and free from broken stitches. There shall be back stitches at the start-stop stitch.



4.8.6 Buttons shall be matched with buttonholes. Snap buttons shall be firm and aligned, matched properly, and free from deformation or over tightness.



4.8.7 Collar is flat and smooth. The top collar is appropriate in tightness.



4.8.8 The set in sleeve shall be round and smooth and two sleeves shall be basically consistent with each other at the front and back.



4.8.9 The symmetrical parts shall be basically consistent.



4.8.10 Trademark and permanent labels shall be flat and smooth and correct in position.



4.8.11 Continuous skipping stitches or more than one individual skipping stitch are not allowed at each part within 30 cm sewing thread. The chain stitch shall not be skipped.



4.9 Permissible deviation of specification and dimension



The permissible deviation of specification and dimension for primary garment parts shall be according to those specified in Table 6.



 

Table 6

In: cm

Part Permissible deviation of specification and dimension

Adults Infants and children

Coat length Tops ±1.5 -1.5～+2.5

Overcoat ±2.0 -1.5 to +3.5

Chest circumference ±3.0 -2.0 ~ +4.0

Collar size ±1.0 -0.8 ~ +1.5

Total shoulder width ±1.0 -0.8 ~ +2.0

Sleeve length Set in sleeve ±1.0 -1.0 ~ +2.0

Raglan sleeve ±1.5 -1.5 ~ +2.5

Trousers (skirt) length ±2.0 -1.5 ~ +3.0

Waist circumference ±1.5 -1.0 ~ +2.0



4.10 Ironing



4.10.1 All parts are ironed to be flat, smooth and tidy, without any overpress, water stain and pressing mark.



4.10.2 The adhesive interlining covered and coated positions shall be free from degumming, bleed-through, wrinkling and rubbling. Gumming is not allowed on the surface of each part.



4.11 Physical and chemical properties



4.11.1 Down garments for adults shall comply with Table 7.



 

Table 7

Item Technical requirement

Superior product First-grade product Acceptable product

Fiber content/% Comply with GB/T 29862

Formaldehyde content/(mg/kg) Comply with Category C in GB 18401

pH value

Azo dyes/(mg/kg)

Odour

Alkylphenols and Alkylphenol ethoxylates (APnEO)a/(mg/kg) NONYLPHENOL (NP)+OCTYLPHENOL (OP) <10

NONYLPHENOL (NP)+OCTYLPHENOL (OP)

+NONYLPHENOL ethoxylate (NPnEO)+Octyl phenol polyoxyethylene ether (OPnEO) <100

Colour fastness of shell/Grade Colour fastness to washing Change ≥4 ≥3-4 ≥3-4

Staining ≥4 ≥3-4 ≥3-4

Colour fastness to water Change ≥4 -5 ≥4 ≥3-4

Staining ≥4 ≥3-4 ≥3

Colour fastness to rubbing Dry rubbing ≥4 ≥3-4 ≥3-4

Wet rubbing b ≥3-4 ≥3 ≥3

Colour fastness to perspiration Change ≥3-4 ≥3 ≥3

Staining ≥3-4 ≥3 ≥3

Colour fastness to light Dark ≥4 ≥4 ≥3

Light, fluorescent color ≥4 ≥3 ≥3

Cross-staining c Staining ≥4 -5 ≥4 ≥4

Colour fastness of lining/grade Colour fastness to washing Staining ≥4 ≥3-4 ≥3-4

Colour fastness to dry rubbing ≥4 ≥3-4 ≥3-4

Colour fastness to water They shall meet the requirements of Grade C as specified in GB 18401

Colour fastness to perspiration

Seam slippage d/cm Down garment with filling shell construction: seam slippage≤ 0.6;

Down garment without filling shell construction: seam slippage≤0.4

Amount of down leakage/(Pieces/m2) ≤40 ≤70 ≤120

Appearance after washing Colour change/grade ≥4

Appearance quality After washing, the sample shall meet the requirements for appearance quality in GB/T 21295-2014, Table 13.

Note: According to GB/T 4841.3, the color darker than 1/12 standard staining depth of dye is dark, while that lighter than or equal to 1/12 is light.

a Only down fillers are assessed. In alkylphenol ethoxylates (APnEO), n=2~16.

b Qualified product index of wet rubbing color fastness of pile, sanded, flocking fabrics and dark fabrics is allowed to be reduced by half grade than that specified in this standard.

c Only the products that have crossed dark and light parts are assessed for the color fastness to cross-staining.

d For down garment with filling shell construction, only fabrics and linings that are not quilted together with down are assessed for the slippage; fabrics with decorative outer layer are not assessed. The seam performance is judged as unsatisfactory in case of any yarn slippage, fabric tearing and stitch breakage in the slippage test result.



4.11.2 Down garments for children shall meet the requirements of GB 31701 and Table 7.



4.11.3 Down garments for baby and infant shall meet the requirements of GB 31701 and Table 8.

Foreword
1 Scope
2 Normative references
3 Terms and definitions
4 Requirements
5 Test methods
6 Inspection rules
7 Marking, packaging, transportation and storage
Annex A (Normative) Requirements for down quality
Annex B (Normative) Test method for net fill weight of garments
Annex C (Normative) Determination of down fill power—steam reduction method
Annex D (Normative) Test method for down penetration resistance of down garments—garment transfer method to boxes

羽绒服装
1 范围
本文件规定了羽绒服装的术语和定义、要求、检验方法、检验规则，以及标志、包装、运输和贮存。
本文件适用于以纺织机织物为主要面料，以羽绒为填充物生产的服装，门襟、袋盖、风帽、领子等小部位可采用其他填充物。
本文件不适用于羽绒和纤维共混填充、分层或分区使用纤维填充的服装。
2规范性引用文件
下列文件中的内容通过文中的规范性引用而构成本文件必不可少的条款。其中，注日期的引用文件，仅该日期对应的版本适用于本文件；不注日期的引用文件，其最新版本(包括所有的修改单)适用于本文件。
GB/T 250 纺织品 色牢度试验 评定变色用灰色样卡
GB/T 1335(所有部分)服装号型
GB/T 3921—2008 纺织品 色牢度试验 耐皂洗色牢度
GB/T 5296.4消费品使用说明 第4部分：纺织品和服装
GB/T 6529 纺织品 调湿和试验用标准大气
GB/T 8170数值修约规则与极限数值的表示和判定
GB/T 8427—2019 纺织品 色牢度试验 耐人造光色牢度：氙弧
GB/T 8629—2017纺织品 试验用家庭洗涤和干燥程序
GB/T 10288—2016羽绒羽毛检验方法
GB/T 14801 机织物与针织物纬斜和弓纬试验方法
GB/T 15557服装术语
GB/T 17685羽绒羽毛
GB 18401 国家纺织产品基本安全技术规范
GB/T 21294服装理化性能的检验方法
GB/T 21295—2014服装理化性能的技术要求
GB/T 23322—2018纺织品 表面活性剂的测定 烷基酚和烷基酚聚氧乙烯醚
GB/T 29862纺织品 纤维含量的标识
GB/T 31127—2014 纺织品 色牢度试验 拼接互染色牢度
GB 31701婴幼儿及儿童纺织产品安全技术规范
GB/T 31702纺织制品附件锐利性试验方法
GB/T 31907 服装测量方法
FZ/T 80002服装标志、包装、运输和贮存
FZ/T 80004服装成品出厂检验规则
羽绒服装外观疵点及缝制起皱五级样照(中华人民共和国纺织工业部)
男女单、棉服装、男女儿童单服装外观疵点样照(中华人民共和国纺织工业部)
3术语和定义
GB/T 17685和GB/T 15557界定的以及下列术语和定义适用于本文件。
3.1
羽绒服装down garments
以羽绒为填充物，绒子含量明示值不低于50％的服装。
3.2
胆料 filling shell
面料与里料间包裹羽绒的织物或无纺布。
3.3
婴幼儿baby and infant
年龄在36个月及以下的儿童。
注：一般指身高100 cm及以下的儿童。
4 要求
4.1使用说明
使用说明按GB/T 5296.4和GB 31701规定。羽绒填充物应标注羽绒的种类、绒子含量和充绒量，其中，绒子含量标注分档应符合附录A中表A.1规定。
4.2号型规格
4.2.1号型设置按GB/T 1335(所有部分)规定。
4.2.2主要部位规格按GB/T 1335(所有部分)有关规定自行设计。
4.3原材料
4.3.1 面料
宜采用符合本文件规定的面料，与羽绒直接绗缝在一起的面料应具有防钻绒性能。
4.3.2里料、胆料
4.3.2.1 宜采用与所用面料相适宜并符合本文件规定的里料和胆料。
4.3.2.2不应使用不透气的织物和薄膜。
4.3.2.3与羽绒直接绗缝在一起的里料、胆料应具有防钻绒性能。
4.3.3填充物
4.3.3.1 羽绒的绒子含量明示值不应低于50％。
4.3.3.2成品的充绒量与明示值的偏差不小于-5.0％。
4.3.3.3羽绒品质要求按附录A的规定。
注：本文件未考核的羽绒填充物的其他指标，由供需双方根据产品要求自行确定。
4.3.4辅料
4.3.4.1衬布、垫肩、装饰花边、袋布
宜采用与所用面料、里料的性能相适宜的衬布、垫肩、装饰花边、袋布，其质量应符合本文件相关规定。
4.3.4.2缝线、绳带、松紧带
宜采用与所用面料、里料、辅料的性能相适宜的缝线、绳带、松紧带(装饰线、装饰带除外)。
4.3.4.3钮扣、拉链及其他附件
宜采用适合所用面料的钮扣(装饰扣除外)、拉链及其他附件。钮扣、装饰扣、拉链及其他附件应表面光洁、无毛刺、无缺损、无残疵、无可触及锐利尖端和锐利边缘。拉链啮合良好、顺滑流畅。
注：可触及锐利尖端和锐利边缘是指在正常穿着条件下，成品上可能对人体皮肤造成人身伤害的锐利尖端和边缘。
4.4经纬纱向
4.4.1前身经纱以门襟线为准不允斜。
4.4.2后身经纱以背中线为准，倾斜不大于1.0 cm，大衣倾斜不大于1.5 cm，条格料不允斜。
4.4.3袖子经纱以前袖缝直线为准，大袖片倾斜不大于1.0 cm；小袖片倾斜不大于1.5 cm(特殊工艺除外)。
4.4.4前身底边不倒翘，后身、袖子、前后裤(裙)片纱线歪斜程度按表1规定。
表1 ％
面料 歪斜程度
优等品 一等品 合格品
什色、花色 ≤3 ≤4 ≤5
条格 ≤2 ≤2.5 ≤3

4.5对条对格
4.5.1 面料有明显条、格在1.0 cm及以上的按表2规定。
表2 单位为厘米
部位 对条、对格规定 备注
左右前身 条料顺直，格料对横，互差不大于0.3 格子大小不一致，以前身三分之一上部为准
袋、袋盖与大身a 条料对条，格料对横，互差不大于0.3 格子大小不一致，以袋的中心前部为准
领角 条格左右对称，互差不大于0.3 阴阳条格以明显条格为主
袖子 两袖左右顺直，条格对称，以袖山为准，互差不大于1.0 —
裤(裙)侧缝 侧缝袋口下10.0处格料对横，互差不大于0.5 —
前后裆缝 条格对称，格料对横，互差不大于0.5 —
注1：有颜色循环的条、格按循环对条对格。
注2：特殊设计除外。
a面料有明显条、格在0.5及以上且小于1.0的，互差不大于条格的1/5。

4.5.2倒顺毛、阴阳格原料，全身顺向一致。
4.5.3特殊图案面料以主图为准，全身顺向一致。
4.6色差
4.6.1 袖缝、摆缝、下裆缝的色差不低于3-4级，其他表面部位色差不低于4级。由多层面料或覆粘合衬所造成的色差不低于3-4级。
4.6.2套装中上装与下装的色差不低于3-4级。
4.7外观疵点
成品各部位疵点允许存在程度按表3规定。成品各部位划分见图1。各部位只允许一种疵点存在且允许存在程度符合表3的规定。
表3
疵点名称 各部位允许存在程度
1号部位 2号部位 3号部位
纱疵 轻微，总长度1.0 cm及以下；明显，不允许 轻微，总长度2.0 cm及以下；明显，不允许 轻微，总长度4.0 cm及以下；明显，总长度2.0 cm及以下
颗粒状粗纱 不允许 不允许 不允许
纬档 不允许 明显，不允许 不宽于0.2 cm一处
斑疵(油污、色斑) 不允许 轻微，总面积不大于0.3 am2；明显，不允许 轻微，总面积不大于0.5 cm2；明显，不允许
破洞、磨损、蛛网 不允许 不允许 不允许
注：疵点程度描述：
——轻微：疵点在直观上不明显，通过仔细辨认才可看出。
——明显：不影响总体效果，但能明显感觉到疵点的存在。

以袖肘线划分
a)前后身部位划分图
图1 成品各部位划分图

b)帽子部位划分图

以袖肘线划分
c)长款前后身部位划分图
图1 成品各部位划分图(续)

d)裤子部位划分图
标引序号说明：
1——1号部位；
2——2号部位；
3——3号部位。
图1 成品各部位划分图(续)
4.8缝制
4.8.1 表面横向绗线对称规定应符合见表4。
表4
单位为厘米
部位名称 表面横向绗线对称规定
搭门 左右前身绗线，互差不大于0.4
无搭门 左右前身绗线，互差不大于0.3
袖底缝 绗线对齐，互差不大于0.6
摆缝 绗线前后对齐，互差不大于0.6
裤下裆缝 绗线前后对齐，互差不大于0.8

4.8.2表面纵向绗线应左右对称。
4.8.3针距密度应符合表5规定。
表5
项 目 针距密度 备注
明暗线 不少于12针/3 cm 特殊设计除外
绗线 不少于9针/3 cm —
锁眼 不少于14针/1 cm 细线
包缝线 不少于9针/3 cm —
注：细线指20 tex及以下缝纫线。

4.8.4各部位缝制线路应顺直、整齐、牢固。主要表面部位缝制皱缩按《羽绒服装外观疵点及缝制起皱五级样照》规定，应不低于3级。
4.8.5上下线松紧适宜，无断线。起止针处应有回针。
4.8.6扣与扣眼上下应对位。四合扣牢固，上下应对位，吻合适度，无变形或过紧现象。
4.8.7领子应平服，领面松紧适宜。
4.8.8绱袖圆顺，两袖前后应基本一致。
4.8.9对称部位应基本一致。
4.8.10商标和耐久性标签位置应端正、平服。
4.8.11 各部位缝纫线迹30 cm内不应有连续跳针或一处以上单跳针，链式线迹不可跳线。
4.9规格尺寸允许偏差
成品主要部位规格尺寸允许偏差应符合表6规定。
表6 单位为厘米
部位名称 规格尺寸允许偏差
成人 婴幼儿及儿童
衣长 上衣 ±1.5 -1.5～+2.5
大衣 ±2.0 -1.5～+3.5
胸围 ±3.0 -2.0～+4.0
领大 ±1.0 -0.8～+1.5
总肩宽 ±1.0 -0.8～+2.0
袖长 圆袖 ±1.0 -1.0～+2.0
连肩袖 ±1.5 -1.5～+2.5
裤、裙长 ±2.0 -1.5～+3.0
腰围 ±1.5 -1.0～+2.0

4.10整烫
4.10.1各部位熨烫平服、整洁，无烫黄、水渍、亮光。
4.10.2覆粘合衬、涂层部位不应有脱胶、渗胶、起皱及起泡。各部位表面不应有沾胶。
4.11理化性能
4.11.1成人穿着的羽绒服装应符合表7的规定。
表7
项目 技术要求
优等品 一等品 合格品
纤维含量/％ 应符合GB/T 29862规定
甲醛含量/(mg/kg) 应符合GB18401中C类的规定
pH值
可分解致癌芳香胺染料/(mg/kg)
异味
烷基酚(AP)和
烷基酚聚氧乙烯醚(APnEO)a/(mg/kg) 壬基酚(NP)+辛基酚(OP) <10
壬基酚(NP)+辛基酚(OP)
+壬基酚聚氧乙烯醚(NPnEO)
+辛基酚聚氧乙烯醚(OPnEO) <100
面料色牢度/级 耐皂洗 变色 ≥4 ≥3-4 ≥3-4
沾色 ≥4 ≥3-4 ≥3-4
耐水 变色 ≥4-5 ≥4 ≥3-4
沾色 ≥4 ≥3-4 ≥3
耐摩擦 干摩擦 ≥4 ≥3-4 ≥3-4
湿摩擦b ≥3-4 ≥3 ≥3
耐汗渍 变色 ≥3-4 ≥3 ≥3
沾色 ≥3-4 ≥3 ≥3
耐光 深色 ≥4 ≥4 ≥3
浅色、荧光色 ≥4 ≥3 ≥3
拼接互染c 沾色 ≥4-5 ≥4 ≥4
里料色牢度/级 耐皂洗 沾色 ≥4 ≥3-4 ≥3-4
耐干摩擦 ≥4 ≥3-4 ≥3-4
耐水 应符合GB 18401中C类的规定
耐汗渍
接缝性能d/cm 有内胆结构羽绒服：缝子纰裂程度≤0.6；
无内胆结构羽绒服：缝子纰裂程度≤0.4
钻绒值/(根/m2) ≤40 ≤70 ≤120
洗涤后外观 变色/级 ≥4
外观质量 样品经洗涤后应符合GB/T 21295—2014表13中外观质量规定
注：按GB/T 4841.3的规定，颜色深于1/12染料染色标准深度为深色，颜色不深于1/12染料染色标准深度为浅色。
a仅考核羽绒填充物。烷基酚聚氧乙烯醚(APnEO)中，n=2～16。
b起绒、磨毛、植绒类面料、深色面料的耐湿摩擦色牢度合格品指标允许比本文件规定降半级。
c拼接互染色牢度仅考核深、浅颜色拼接的产品。
d有内胆结构羽绒服的纰裂仅考核未与碾绒绗缝在一起的面料、里料；外层仅起装饰作用的织物不考核。纰裂试验结果出现纱线滑脱、织物撕破或缝线断裂现象判定接缝性能不符合要求。

4.11.2儿童穿着的羽绒服装应符合GB 31701和表7的规定。
4.11.3婴幼儿穿着的羽绒服装应符合GB 31701和表8的规定。
表8
项目 技术要求
优等品 一等品 合格品
纤维含量/％ 应符合GB/T 29862规定
甲醛含量/(mg/kg) 应符合GB 18401中A类的规定
pH值
可分解致癌芳香胺染料/(mg/kg)
异味
烷基酚(AP)和烷基酚聚氧乙烯醚(APnEO)a/(mg/kg) 壬基酚(NP)+辛基酚(OP) <10
壬基酚(NP)+辛基酚(OP)
+壬基酚聚氧乙烯醚(NPnEO)
+辛基酚聚氧乙烯醚(OPnEO) <100
面料色牢度/级 耐皂洗 变色 ≥4 ≥3-4 ≥3-4
沾色 ≥4 ≥3-4 ≥3-4
耐水 变色 ≥4-5 ≥4 ≥3-4
沾色 ≥4 ≥3-4 ≥3-4
耐摩擦 干摩擦 ≥4 ≥4 ≥4
湿摩擦 ≥4 ≥3-4 ≥3
耐汗渍 变色 ≥4 ≥3-4 ≥3-4
沾色 ≥4 ≥3-4 ≥3-4
耐唾液 变色 ≥4 ≥4 ≥4
沾色 ≥4 ≥4 ≥4
耐光 深色 ≥4 ≥4 ≥3
浅色、荧光色 ≥4 ≥3 ≥3
拼接互染b 沾色 ≥4-5 ≥4 ≥4
里料色牢度/级 耐皂洗 变色 ≥4 ≥3-4 ≥3-4
沾色 ≥4 ≥3-4 ≥3-4
耐水 变色 ≥4-5 ≥4 ≥3-4
沾色 ≥4 ≥3-4 ≥3-4
耐摩擦 干摩擦 ≥4 ≥4 ≥4
湿摩擦 ≥4 ≥3-4 ≥3
耐汗渍 变色 ≥4 ≥3-4 ≥3-4
沾色 ≥4 ≥3-4 ≥3-4
耐唾液 变色 ≥4 ≥4 ≥4
沾色 ≥4 ≥4 ≥4
接缝性能c/cm 有内胆结构羽绒服：缝子纰裂程度≤0.6；
无内胆结构羽绒服：缝子纰裂程度≤0.4
钻绒值/(根/m2) ≤40 ≤70 ≤120
洗涤后外观 变色/级 ≥4
外观质量 样品经洗涤后应符合GB/T 21295—2014表13中外观质量规定
注：按GB/T 4841.3的规定，颜色深于1/12染料染色标准深度为深色，颜色不深于1/12染料染色标准深度为浅色。
a仅考核羽绒填充物。烷基酚聚氧乙烯醚(APnEO)中，n=2～16。
b拼接互染色牢度仅考核深、浅颜色拼接的产品。
c有内胆结构羽绒服的纰裂仅考核未与羽绒绗缝在一起的面料、里料；外层仅起装饰作用的织物不考核。纰裂试验结果出现纱线滑脱、织物撕破或缝线断裂现象判定接缝性能不符合要求。

5试验方法
5.1仪器设备和材料
5.1.1钢卷尺或直尺，分度值为1 mm。
5.1.2天平和电子天平。
5.1.3评定变色用灰色样卡(GB/T 250)。
5.1.4 羽绒服装外观疵点及缝制起皱五级样照。
5.1.5男女单、棉服装、男女儿童单服装外观疵点样照。
5.2规格测定
主要部位规格尺寸按GB/T 31907描述的方法测定。规格尺寸允许偏差按表6规定。
5.3充绒量测定
成品的充绒量按附录B描述的方法测定。在样品中随机抽取一件进行试验。
5.4羽绒品质测定
5.4.1 将整件样品的羽绒全部取出，混合均匀后测试。
5.4.2 羽绒品质按GB/T 10288—2016描述的方法测定，其中：
a)鹅、鸭毛绒种类鉴定中，试样制备统一按完成成分分析试验的步骤取样。
b)浊度按GB/T 10288—2016中A法描述的方法测定。
c)蓬松度按附录C描述的方法测定。
5.5外观测定
5.5.1外观检验一般采用灯光照明，照度不低于600 lx，有条件时也可采用北空光照明。
5.5.2评定色差程度时，被评部位应纱向一致。入射光与织物表面约成45°角，观察方向应垂直于织物表面，距离60 cm目测，与GB/T 250样卡对比。
5.5.3外观疵点允许存在程度测定时，距离60 cm目测。适宜时采用钢卷尺或直尺进行测量。成品各部位疵点与《羽绒服装外观疵点及缝制起皱五级样照》和《男女单、棉服装、男女儿童单服装外观疵点样照》对比。
5.5.4针距密度在成品缝纫线迹上任取3 cm测量(厚薄部位除外)。成品主要部位缝子皱缩与《羽绒服装外观疵点及缝制起皱五级样照》对比。
5.5.5经、纬向纱线歪斜程度按GB/T 14801描述的方法测定，按式(1)计算结果。
(1)
式中：
S——经向或纬向纱线歪斜程度，％；
d——经纱或纬纱与直尺间最大垂直距离，单位为毫米(mm)；
W——测量部位宽度，单位为毫米(mm)。
5.5.6 附件尖端和边缘的锐利性按GB/T 31702描述的方法测定。
5.6理化性能测定
5.6.1 婴幼儿及儿童服装安全性能按GB 31701描述的方法测定。
5.6.2烷基酚(AP)和烷基酚聚氧乙烯醚(APnEO)按GB/T 23322—2018中6.2描述的液相色谱-质谱法(LC-MS)测定。取代表性的试样、混匀。从混合样中称取0.5 g试样，精确至0.01 g，置于250 mL具塞锥形瓶中，加入80 mL甲醇，在(70±2)℃下超声提取(60±5)min。
5.6.3耐皂洗色牢度按GB/T 3921—2008中方法A(1)描述的方法测定。
5.6.4耐光色牢度按GB/T 8427—2019描述的方法测定，其中曝晒按方法3，晒至第一阶段。
5.6.5拼接互染色牢度按GB/T 31127—2014中方法A描述的方法测定。
5.6.6缝子纰裂程度取样部位按表9规定，缝子纰裂程度按GB/T 21294描述的方法测定。其中，织物单位面积质量在52 g/m2及以下的面、里料，规定负荷按(45±1)N。面、里料绗缝在一起的样品，整体测试，施加负荷按面里料组合质量执行。批量产品检验结果按GB/T 21294规定取平均值，单件产品取实测值。