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This standard is developed in accordance with the rules given in GB/T 1.1-2009.
This standard is a revision of QB/T 1615-2006 Leather garment. In addition to editorial changes, the following technical changes have been made with respect to QB/T 1615-2006:
——“Scope” is adjusted;
——requirements for “Size designation and specification” are adjusted;
——requirements for "Raw materials of leather” are added;
——wording of "materials for positions” is partially modified;
——physical and chemical property indexes of "accessory fabric and accessory" are added;
——requirements for textiles, fur collars and fur accessory fabric are added in "Test methods";
——order of "Rules for grading finished products" is adjusted;
——"Sampling quantity" in "Routine type inspection" is modified;
——requirements for "Superior product" in "Single-piece judgment rule” are modified;
——"Lot judgment rule” is adjusted;
——requirements for material labeling in the "labeling” are detailed;
——physical and chemical property indexes and test methods of "leather", "textile" and "fur" are added in Annex B.
This standard was proposed by China National Light Industry Council.
This standard is under the jurisdiction of the National Technical Committee on Leather Industry of Standardization Administration of China (SAC/TC 252).
This standard replaces the former professional standard QB/T 1615-2006 Leather garment, which is abolished from the implementation date of this standard.
The previous editions of this standard are as follows:
——QB/T 1615-2006;
——QB/T 1615-1997;
——QB/T 1615-1992.
Leather garment
1 Scope
This standard specifies the product classification, requirements, test methods, inspection rules, marking, packaging, transportation and storage of leather garment.
This standard is applicable to garments with leathers as the main shell fabric.
This standard is not applicable to garments for infants aged 36 months and below.
2 Normative References
The following referenced documents are indispensable for the application of this document. For dated references, only the edition cited applies. For undated references, the latest edition of the referenced document (including any amendments) applies.
GB/T 1335.1 Standard sizing systems for garments - Men
GB/T 1335.2 Standard sizing systems for garments - Women
GB/T 1335.3 Standard sizing systems for garments - Children
GB/T 2910 Textile - Binary fibre mixtures - Quantitative chemical analysis
GB/T 2912.1 Textiles - Determination of formaldehyde
GB/T 3920 Textiles - Tests for color fastness - Color fastness to rubbing
GB/T 7573 Textiles - Determination of pH of aqueous extract
GB/T 17592 Textiles - Test method of the use of banned azo colourants
GB 18401 National general safety technical code for textile products
GB/T 19941 Leather and fur - Chemical tests - Determination of formaldehyde content
GB/T 19942 Leather and fur - Chemical tests - Determination of banned azo colourants
GB 20400 Leather and fur - Limit of harmful matter
GB/T 22889 Leather - Physical and mechanical tests - Determination of surface coating thickness
FZ/T 01057 Test method for identification of textile fibers
QB/T 1277 Fur - Chemical tests - Determination of pH
QB/T 1872 Garment leather
QB/T 2537 Leather color - fastness test - reciprocating colour fastness to rubbing
QB/T 2711 Leather - Physical and mechanical tests - Determination of tear load - Double edge tear
QB/T 2724 Determination of Leather chemical test chemical test pH value
QB/T 2725 Leather - Determination of odour
QB/T 2790 Dyeing fur - Testing method for colour fastness to rubbing
QB/T 2924 Fur - Test method for colour fastness to perspiration
QB/T 2925 Fur - Test methods for colour fastness to light
QB/T 2970 Fur collar
3 Product classification
3.1 Tops
Suits, jackets, hunting coats, waistcoats, shirts, etc.
3.2 Bottoms
Skirts, pants, etc.
3.3 Full-body suit
Wind coat, overcoat, etc.
4 Requirements
4.1 Size designation and specification
4.1.1 Size designation
The selection and expression of size designation shall meet the requirements of GB/T 1335.1, GB/T 1335.2 and GB/T 1335.3.
4.1.2 Specification
The specification is self-designed according to the relevant requirements of GB/T 1335.1, GB/T 1335.2 and GB/T 1335.3, and permissible deviation shall meet the requirements in Annex A.
4.2 Leather
4.2.1 Raw materials of leather
They shall be selected according to GB 20400 and QB/T 1872, and shall meet the requirements of Table B.1.
4.2.2 Materials for positions
They shall meet the requirements of Table 1, the suitability of special style products (if any) shall be considered.
Table 1 Materials for positions
Position Quality requirements
Superior product Acceptable product
Top collar The surface is smooth and delicate without damage
Front It is suitable in color, smooth in surface and consistent in pattern; the main position shall be free of damage, while two unapparent minor damages may be allowed in minor position. The material used on both sides of the side seam shall not be used for skirting. Fuzz of suede leather is fine It is suitable in color, smooth in surface and basically consistent in pattern; the material used for skirting on both sides of the side seam shall not be greater than 30mm; three minor unapparent damages may be allowed. Fuzz of suede leather may be slightly coarse
Back It is suitable in color which is commensurate with that of the front body seam; two minor unapparent damages may be allowed. Fuzz of suede leather is fine It is suitable in color which is commensurate with that of the front body seam; three minor unapparent damages may be allowed. Fuzz of suede leather may be slightly coarse
Sleeve surface The surface shall be smooth and fine. Match with the color of front body. Minor damage shall not be allowed. Suede leather shall be free of coarse fuzz The surface shall be fine and smooth. It is basically commensurate with the color of front body. Slight damage and coarse fuzz may be allowed in the unapparent place.
Sleeve underarm Commensurate with the sleeve surface; the skirting material used for both sides of the sleeve line shall not be greater than 20mm; two minor unapparent damages may be allowed. Basically commensurate with the sleeve surface; the skirting material used for both sides of the sleeve line shall not be greater than 30mm; slight damages such as scattered small scabs and rough spots may be allowed in the unapparent places
Lining The leather used is basically uniform in thickness and shall be free of obvious appearance defects Front leather and suede leather with common defect and without serious uneven thickness, knife wounds and holes may be used. The inner incised wound, if any, shall not exceed half of the thickness, but it shall be gummed.
Waist, belt and accessories They are basically matched with the body, with slight damage allowed on the surface
Basic requirements Smooth leather surface is flat and smooth, without base exposure, crazing or fracture; the fuzz of suede leather is fine, even and non-greasy. Leather is soft without dyeing defect, with the basically consistent thickness, color and grain fineness. Skirting and side abdominal skin shall not be used, except for both sides of the seam in the specified positions
4.3 Accessory fabric and accessory
They shall meet the requirements of Table 2; physical and chemical property indexes of textiles and fur shall meet those specified in Tables B.2 and B.3; fur collar shall meet those of specified in QB/T 2970.
Table 2 Accessory fabric and accessory
Type Quality requirements
Superior product Acceptable product
Textiles With performance and color compatible with leather materials and shrinkage ratio suitable to them; without skipped yarn, color difference or dyeing defect, etc. With performance compatible with fur materials and shrinkage ratio suitable to fur material, without defects such as obvious skipped yarn, relatively obvious color difference and dyeing defect; wherein, the number of skipped yarn shall be not be greater than two, with each not longer than 5mm.
Fur The color is suitable, the length and fineness of fleece are basically the same, without rigid, crisp skin, depilation, peculiar smell or decolorization; the seam shall be flat and smooth
Accessories The color is matched with the leather color; without burrs; the installation is firm. Metal accessories shall be free of corrosion
Zipper Its color is matched with leather color; smooth in zipping, without misalignment or teeth falling; sutured straightly and evenly at consistent edge distance
Button Smooth and durable; color and luster are suitable to shell fabric
Stitch thread With performance and color suitable to shell fabric and lining
Trademark Its position is neat, firm, right and clear
4.4 Sewing requirements
Comply with those given in Table 3.
Table 3 Sewing requirements
Item Quality requirements
Superior product Acceptable product
Stitch length Suitable to material performance, thickness, stitch thread and manufacture craft; with 6~15 needles/30mm on shell fabric surface thread (except for ornamental thread)
Needle tracking Natural and straight; uniform stitch length; matched upper and lower threads with appropriate tightness; shall be free of skewness and wrinkles. Back stitching or knot shall be provided at the start-stop stitches; the main position shall be free of empty stitches, missing stitches and skipping stitches, while those shall not exceed two at the minor position and each of them shall not exceed two Natural and straight; uniform stitch length; matched upper and lower threads with appropriate tightness; free of serious skewness and wrinkles. Back stitching or knot shall appear at the start-stop stitches; empty stitches, missing stitches and skipping stitches shall not exceed two respectively and those shall not exceed two at main position and not exceed five in total
Sewing surface The surface of the shell fabric shall be free of scars caused by needle plate and feed dog The surface of the shell fabric shall be free of obvious scars caused by needle plate and feed dog
Buttonhole The hole shall face and be appropriate to the button; button sewing, thread off and knotting shall be firm.
4.5 Appearance quality
It shall meet those specified in Table 4.
Foreword i
1 Scope
2 Normative References
3 Product classification
4 Requirements
5 Test methods
6 Inspection rules
7 Marking, packaging, transportation and storage
Annex A (Normative) Permissible deviation of specification
Annex B (Normative) Special type inspection
Annex C (Normative) Comprehensive judgment on after-sale quality of leather garments