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Codeofchina.com is in charge of this English translation. In case of any doubt about the English translation, the Chinese original shall be considered authoritative. This standard is developed in accordance with the rules given in GB/T 1.1-2009. This standard was proposed by China National Light Industry Council. This standard is under the jurisdiction of SAC/TC 252 National Technical Committee on Leather Industry of Standardization Administration of China. This standard is issued for the first time. Leather garment with down feather fillers 1 Scope This standard specifies the requirements, test methods, inspection rules, and marking, packaging, transportation and storage of leather garment with down feather fillers. This standard is applicable to the leather garment with a variety of leather as the main fabric and with down feather (duck down, goose down, etc.) fillers. 2 Normative references The following referenced documents are indispensable for the application of this document. For dated references, only the edition cited applies. For undated references, the latest edition of the referenced document (including any amendments) applies. GB/T 1335.1 Standard sizing systems for garments - Men GB/T 1335.2 Standard sizing systems for garments - Women GB/T 1335.3 Standard sizing systems for garments - Children GB/T 2912.1 Textiles - Determination of formaldehyde - Part 1: Free and hydrolyzed formaldehyde (water extraction method) GB/T 3920 Textiles - Tests for colour fastness - Color fastness to rubbing GB/T 7573 Textiles - Determination of pH of aqueous extract GB/T 10288 Test method for down and feather GB/T 17592 Textiles - Test method of the use of banned azo colourants GB/T 17685 Down and feather GB 18401 National general safety technical code for textile products GB/T 19941 Leather and fur - Chemical tests - Determination of formaldehyde content GB/T 19942 Leather and fur - Chemical tests - Determination of banned azo colorants GB 20400 Leather and fur - Limit of harmful matter GB/T 22889 Leather - Physical and mechanical tests - Determination of surface coating thickness QB/T 1277 Fur - Chemical tests - Determination of pH QB/T 1872 Garment leather QB/T 2537 Leather - Tests for colour fastness - Colour fastness to to-and-fro rubbing QB/T 2711 Leather - Physical and mechanical tests - Determination of tear load - Double edge tear QB/T 2724 Leather - Chemical tests - Determination of pH QB/T 2725 Leather - Determination of odour QB/T 2790 Dyeing fur - Testing method for colour fastness to rubbing QB/T 2924 Fur - Test methods for colour fastness to perspiration QB/T 2925 Fur - Test methods for colour fastness to light QB/T 2970 Fur collar 3 Requirements 3.1 Sizing and specification 3.1.1 Sizing The sizing shall be selected according to the requirements of GB/T 1335.1, GB/T 1335.2 and GB/T 1335.3, and the sizing designation shall meet the requirements of GB/T 1335.1, GB/T 1335.2 and GB/T 1335.3. 3.1.2 Specification The specification shall be self-designed according to the relevant requirements of GB/T 1335.1, GB/T 1335.2 and GB/T 1335.3, of which the permissible deviation shall meet the requirements of Annex A. 3.2 Leather 3.2.1 Fur materials They shall be selected according to GB 20400, QB/T 1872, etc., and the relevant special requirements shall meet the requirements of Table B.1 in Annex B. 3.2.2 Materials for parts They shall meet the requirements of Table 1, and their suitability shall be considered for the special-style products. Table 1 Materials for parts Part Quality requirements Superior product Acceptable product Top collar It shall be smooth and fine without damage on surface Front It shall be suitable in color, smooth on surface and consistent in pattern; the main parts shall be free of damage, and the secondary parts are allowed to have inconspicuous minor damage in 2 places; the material used on both sides of the side seam shall not use the skirting part; and the fuzz of suede leather shall be fine It shall be suitable in color, smooth on surface and basically consistent in pattern; the skirting material on both sides of the side seam shall not be greater than 30mm; inconspicuous minor damage is allowed in 3 places; and the fuzz of suede leather may be slightly coarse Back It shall be suitable in color and shall be commensurate with the color at the seam with the front; inconspicuous minor damage is allowed in 2 places; and the fuzz of suede leather shall be fine It shall be suitable in color and shall be basically commensurate with the color at the seam with the front; inconspicuous minor damage is allowed in 3 places; and the fuzz of suede leather may be slightly coarse Sleeve surface It shall be smooth and fine on surface; its color shall be commensurate with the color of the front; minor damage is not allowed; and the suede leather shall be free of coarse fuzz It shall be smooth and fine on surface; its color shall be basically commensurate with the color of the front; and minor damage and coarse fuzz are allowed in the unapparent places Sleeve underarm It shall be commensurate with the sleeve surface; the skirting material used for both sides of the sleeve line shall not be greater than 20mm; and inconspicuous minor damage is allowed in 2 places It shall be basically commensurate with the sleeve surface; the skirting material used for both sides of the sleeve line shall not be greater than 30mm; minor damages such as scattered small scabs and rough spots are allowed in the unapparent places Lining The leather used shall be basically uniform in thickness and shall be free of obvious appearance defects Grain leather and suede leather with common defects but without serious uneven thickness, knife wounds and holes may be used; the inner incised wound, if any, shall not exceed half of the thickness, but it shall be glued Waistband, back belt and accessory They shall be basically commensurate with the body, and minor damage is allowed on the surface Basic requirements The glossy leather shall be flat and smooth on surface, free of base exposure, crazing or broken face, and the fuzz of suede leather shall be fine, even and non-greasy; the leather shall be soft without dyeing defect, with the basically consistent thickness, color and grain fineness; and skirting and side abdominal skin shall not be used, except for both sides of the seams in the specified positions 3.3 Fillers 3.3.1 Down and feather fillers They shall meet the requirements of GB/T 17685. 3.3.2 Other fibre fillers They shall conform to the appropriate product standards. 3.4 Accessory fabric and accessory They shall meet those specified in Table 2. The physical and chemical property indexes of textiles and furs shall meet those specified in Tables B.3 and B.4 of Annex B. The fur collar shall meet the requirements of QB/T 2970. Table 2 Accessory fabric and accessory Variety Quality requirements Superior product Acceptable product Textile The performance and color shall be compatible with the leather fabric and shrinkage ratio suitable to the fabric, and there shall be no skipped yarn, color difference or dyeing defect The performance and color shall be compatible with the leather fabric and shrinkage ratio suitable to the fabric; there shall be no defects such as obvious skipped yarn, relatively obvious color difference and dyeing defect; and the number of skipped yarns shall be not be greater than two, with each no longer than 5mm Fur The fur shall be suitable in color, and the fleece shall be basically uniform in length and fineness, without rigid, crisp skin, depilation, peculiar smell or decolorization; and the seam shall be flat and smooth Accessory The color of accessories shall be commensurate with the leather color. The accessories shall be burr-free and firmly mounted. The metal accessories shall be free of corrosion Zipper The color of zipper cloth shall be commensurate with the leather color; the zippers shall be smooth in zipping, without misalignment or loss of teeth; the zippers shall be sutured straightly and evenly at consistent edge distance Button The buttons shall be smooth and durable; and their color and luster shall be suitable to the fabric Sewing thread The thread performance and color shall be suitable to the fabric and lining Trademark It shall be neat and firm in right place, with correct and clear content 3.5 Sewing requirements They shall meet those specified in Table 3. Table 3 Sewing requirements Item Quality requirements Superior product Acceptable product Stitch length It shall be adapted to the material properties, thickness, sewing thread, production process, with 6~15 stitches per 30mm on the surface of fabric (except for ornamental threads) Stitch The stitches shall be natural and straight at uniform length; the upper and lower threads shall be matched with each other, in appropriate tightness, and free of skewness and wrinkles; there shall be back stitching or knot at the start-stop stitches; empty stitch, drop stitch and skipping stitch are not allowed at the main parts, and are allowed in 2 places at the secondary parts, with the number of each not exceeding 2 The stitches shall be natural and straight at uniform length; the upper and lower threads shall be matched with each other, in appropriate tightness, and free of serious skewness and wrinkles; there shall be back stitching or knot at the start-stop stitches; the number of empty stitches, drop stitches and skipping stitches shall not exceed 2 respectively, and shall not exceed 2 at the main parts, shall not exceed 5 in total Sewing surface The fabric shall be free of scars caused by needle plate and feed dog on the surface The fabric shall be free of obvious scars caused by needle plate and feed dog on the surface Buttonhole The hole position shall face and be appropriate to the button; button nailing, thread off and knotting shall be firm 3.6 Appearance quality It shall meet those specified in Table 4. Table 4 Appearance quality Part Quality requirements Collar The top collar shall be flat and smooth; the neck line shall be round and smooth; the left and right collar points shall be symmetrical and free from upturning; the gorge line and roll line shall be straight, and the collar inclination be proper Shoulder The shoulder part shall be flat and smooth; the shoulder seam shall be straight; the shoulder dart shall be in the same length and bilaterally symmetrical Sleeve The setting in sleeve shall be round and smooth with uniform easing, and two sleeves shall be consistent with each other in term of length with difference not greater than 5mm; the size (width) difference of the two cuffs shall not be greater than 3mm Top fly and under fly The front edge shall be smooth, straight and pretty flat, at suitable tightness. The top fly shall not be shorter than the under fly and their length difference shall not be greater than 3mm Vent and side vent They shall be flat and free from hanging and slanting, and the length difference shall not be greater than 3mm Hem It shall be flat without degumming and wrinkle, and shall be uniform in width Pocket The left and right pockets shall be symmetrical in front and back as well as in height, with the pocket flap matching with the pocket width, at the difference not greater than 3mm Buttonhole The buttonholes shall be consistent in length and width, equal in corresponding edge distance and without skewness, and the difference, if any, shall not be greater than 2mm Loop It shall be consistent in height and length on both sides, shall be firm and free from skewness, and the difference, if any, shall not be greater than 3mm Waistband The fabric, lining and interlining shall be flat, smooth and properly tightened Front rise and back rise They shall be round, flat and smooth Belt-loop It shall be consistent and commensurate in length and width, with height difference not greater than 3mm Trouser legs The length and width of trouser legs are consistent with difference not greater than 5mm; the difference of leg openings in size (width) shall not be greater than 3mm Interlining It shall be matched with the fabric and suitable in tightness when sitting General requirements The filler shall be basically even in thickness, flat in the whole garment, at suitable tightness and free from pleating, kilting and pressing; the adhesive-bonded interlining shall be free from degumming or bubbling; the integral appearance shall be free from stain, burn, scratch, dropping fastener and zipper puller falling off or peculiar smell, etc. 4 Test methods 4.1 Devices and tools 4.1.1 Measuring tools Steel rulers with minimum division of 0.5mm (for measuring stitch length) and 1mm; and steel tape with minimum division of 1mm. 4.1.2 Inspection bench The bench length, width and height shall be proper, the bench surface shall be flat and smooth, so that sample can be flatten on it. 4.1.3 Illuminance The illuminance shall not be less than 750lx. 4.2 Sizing and specification 4.2.1 Sizing designation It shall be inspected according to the requirements of GB/T 1335.1, GB/T 1335.2 and GB/T 1335.3. Foreword II 1 Scope 2 Normative references 3 Requirements 4 Test methods 5 Inspection rules 6 Marking, packaging, transportation and storage Annex A (Normative) Permissible deviations of specifications Annex B (Normative) Special type inspection Annex C (Normative) Calculation of mass deviation of down and feather fillers Annex D (Informative) Comprehensive judgment for after-sales quality of leather garment with down feather fillers ICS 59.140.35 分类号:Y 48 备案号:63715-2018 QB 中华人民共和国轻工行业标准 QB/T 5245—2018 充绒内胆皮革服装 Leather garment with down feather fillers 2018-05-08发布 2018-09-01实施 中华人民共和国工业和信息化部 发布 前言 本标准按照GB/T 1.1—2009给出的规则起草。 本标准由中国轻工业联合会提出。 本标准由全国皮革工业标准化技术委员会(SAC/TC 252)归口。 本标准为首次发布。 充绒内胆皮革服装 1 范围 本标准规定了充绒内胆皮革服装的要求、试验方法、检验规则、标志、包装、运输和贮存。 本标准适用于以各种皮革为主要面料的充绒(鸭绒、鹅绒等)内胆服装。 2 规范性引用文件 下列文件对于本文件的应用是必不可少的。凡是注日期的引用文件,仅注日期的版本适用于本文件。凡是不注日期的引用文件,其最新版本(包括所有的修改单)适用于本文件。 GB/T 1335.1 服装号型 男子 GB/T 1335.2 服装号型 女子 GB/T 1335.3 服装号型 儿童 GB/T 2912.1 纺织品 甲醛含量的测定 第1部分:游离和水解的甲醛(水萃取法) GB/T 3920 纺织品 色牢度试验 耐摩擦色牢度 GB/T 7573 纺织品 水萃取液pH值的测定 GB/T 10288 羽绒羽毛检验方法 GB/T 17592 纺织品 禁用偶氮染料检测方法 GB/T 17685 羽绒羽毛 GB 18401 国家纺织产品基本安全技术规范 GB/T 19941 皮革和毛皮 化学试验 甲醛含量的测定 GB/T 19942 皮革和毛皮 化学试验 禁用偶氮染料的测定 GB 20400 皮革和毛皮 有害物质限量 GB/T 22889 皮革 物理和机械试验 表面涂层厚度的测定 QB/T 1277 毛皮 化学试验pH的测定 QB/T 1872 服装用皮革 QB/T 2537 皮革 色牢度试验 往复式摩擦色牢度 QB/T 2711 皮革 物理和机械试验 撕裂力的测定 双边撕裂 QB/T 2724 皮革 化学试验 pH的测定 QB/T 2725 皮革 气味的测定 QB/T 2790 染色毛皮耐摩擦色牢度测试方法 QB/T 2924 毛皮 耐汗渍色牢度试验方法 QB/T 2925 毛皮 耐日晒色牢度试验方法 QB/T 2970 毛皮领子 3 要求 3.1 号型及规格 3.1.1 号型 按GB/T 1335.1、GB/T 1335.2、GB/T 1335.3的规定选用,号型表示应符合GB/T 1335.1、GB/T 1335.2、GB/T 1335.3的规定。 3.1.2 规格 按GB/T 1335.1、GB/T 1335.2、GB/T 1335.3的有关规定自行设计,允许偏差应符合附录A的规定。 3.2 皮革 3.2.1 皮草原料 按GB 20400、QB/T 1872等标准选用,特殊要求应符合附录B中表B.1的规定。 3.2.2 部位用料 应符合表1的规定,特殊风格的产品应考虑其适宜性。 表1 部位用料 部位 质量要求 优等品 合格品 领面 表面光洁、细致,无伤残 前身前面 颜色适宜,表面光洁,花纹一致,主要部位无伤残,次要部位可有不明显的轻微伤残2处;摆缝两边用料不应使用边肷部位;绒面革绒毛细致 颜色适宜,表面光洁,花纹基本一致,摆缝两边边肷用料不超过30mm,可有不明显的轻微伤残3处;绒面革可有轻微粗绒 后身后面 颜色适宜,与前身接缝处颜色相称,可有不明显的轻微伤残2处;绒面革绒毛细致 颜色适宜,与前身接缝处颜色基本相称,可有不明显的轻微伤残3处;绒面革可有轻微粗绒 袖底 与袖面相称,袖底缝两边边肷用料不超过20mm,可有不明显的轻微伤残2处 与袖面基本相称,袖底缝两边边肷用料不超过30mm,不明显处可有分散的小结疤、小糙斑等轻微伤残 里料 使用的皮革厚薄基本均匀,不应有明显外观缺陷 除严重厚薄不匀、刀伤、破洞外,可使用一般缺陷的正面革、绒面革;允许内刀伤深度不超过厚度的二分之一,但应胶补 腰头、腰带及小料 与大身基本相称,表面可有轻微伤残 基本要求 光面革革面平整光滑,无露底、裂浆、裂面,绒面革绒毛细致均匀,无油腻感;皮革柔软,无色花,厚薄、色泽,粒面细度基本一致;除规定部位接缝两边外,不应使用边肷、边腹皮 3.3 填充物 3.3.1 羽绒羽毛填充物 应符合GB/T 17685的规定。 3.3.2 其他纤维填充物 符合相应产品标准。 3.4 辅料和配件 应符合表2的规定,纺织品、毛皮理化性能指标应符合附录B中表B.3、表B.4的规定,毛皮领子应符合QB/T 2970的规定。 表2 辅料和配件 品种 质量要求 优等品 合格品 纺织品 性能、色泽与皮革面料相适应,收缩率应与面料相适宜,无跳丝、色差、色花 性能、色泽与皮革面料相适应,收缩率应与面料相适宜,无明显跳丝、较明显的色差、色花等缺陷,跳丝不应超过2处,每处长度不大于5mm 毛皮 色泽适宜,毛被长短、粗细基本一致,无僵板、酥板、脱毛、异味等,不脱色,接缝处应平服 配件 色泽与皮色相称,无毛刺,安装牢固:金属配件无锈蚀 拉链 布色与皮色相称,拉合滑顺,无错位、掉牙,缝合平直,边距一致 钮扣 光滑、耐用,色泽与面料相适应 缝线 性能、色泽与面料、里料相适应 商标 位置端正、牢固,正确、清晰 3.5 缝制要求 应符合表3的规定。 表3 缝制要求 项目 质量要求 优等品 合格品 针距 与材料性能、厚度、缝线、制作工艺相适应,面料表面而线6针30mm~15针30mm(装饰线除外) 针迹 自然顺直,针距均匀,上下线吻合,松紧适宜,不应歪斜及皱趔:起落针处应有回针或打结,主要部位无空针、漏针、跳针,次要部位不超过2处,且空针、漏针、跳针各不应超过2针 自然顺直,针距均匀,上下线吻合,松紧适宜,无严重歪斜及皱趔;起落针处应有回针或打结,空针、漏针、跳针各不应超过2针,主要部位不应超过2处,总数不超过5处 缝纫表面 面料表面无针板及送料牙所造成的伤痕 面料表面无针板及送料牙所造成的明显伤痕 扣眼 眼位与扣相对、适宜,钉扣收线打结应牢固 3.6 外观质量 应符合表4的规定。 表4 外观质量 部位 质量要求 领子 领面平服,领窝圆顺,左右对称,领尖不翘,串口、驳口顺直,领翘适宜 肩 肩部平服,肩缝顺直,肩省长短一致,左右对称 袖 绱袖圆顺,吃势均匀:两袖长短一致,相差不大于5mm;两袖口大小(宽度)相差不大于3mm 门襟、里襟 止口顺直平挺,松紧适宜,门襟不短于里襟,长短相差不大于3mm 背叉、摆叉 不吊、不歪,平服,长短相差不大于3mm 底边 平服,无脱胶、起皱,宽窄一致 口袋 左右袋高低、前后对称,袋盖与袋宽相适应,相差不大于3mm 扣眼 长短、宽窄一致,扣眼对应边距相等,不歪斜,相差不大于2mm 袢 左右两边高低、长短一致,不歪斜,牢固,相差不大于3mm 腰头 面、里、衬平服,松紧适宜 前、后裆 圆顺、平服 串带 长短、宽窄一致,相称,高低相差不大于3mm 裤腿 两裤腿长短、肥瘦一致,相差不大于5mm;两裤脚口大小(宽度)相差不大于3mm 夹里 与面料相适应,坐势松紧适宜 整体要求 填充物厚薄基本均匀,周身平服,松紧适宜,不应打裥、吊紧或拔宽,粘合衬部位不应出现开胶、气泡,整体不应有污溃、烫痕、划破、掉扣、拉链头脱落损坏、严重异味等 4 试验方法 4.1 装置与条件 4.1.1 测量工具 钢板尺,最小刻度0.5mm(测针距用)、1mm;钢卷尺,最小刻度1mm。 4.1.2 检验台 长、宽、高适度,台面平整,样品能在台上摊平。 4.1.3 照度 不小于750 lx。 4.2 号型和规格 4.2.1 号型表示 按GB/T 1335.1、GB/T 1335.2、GB/T 1335.3的规定进行检验。 4.2.2 规格允许偏差 当相关方对规格及允许偏差有异议时,按设计规定、附录A进行检验。 4.3 皮革原料 在裁剪、制做以前,按GB 20400、QB/T 1872、附录B进行检验。 4.4 羽绒羽毛填充物 在加工、制做以前,按GB/T 10288进行检验。 4.5 纺织品 在裁剪、制做以前,按附录B进行检验。 4.6 毛皮领子 按QB/T 2970的规定进行检验。 4.7 毛皮辅料 在裁剪、制做以前,按GB 20400、附录B进行检验。 4.8 针距 用钢板只在成品任意部位(厚薄部位、刺绣部位除外)取大于30m测量。 4.9 要求中其他各项目 用目测、感官并结合量尺检验。 5 检验规则 5.1 组批 以同一品种原料投产,按同一生产工艺生产出来的同一款式的产品组成一个检验批。 5.2 出厂检验 产品出厂前应进行检验,经检验合格并附有合格标识(或检验标识)方可出厂。 5.3 常规型式检验 5.3.1 检验周期 有下列情况之一者,应从出厂检验合格的产品中随机抽取样品进行常规型式检验。 a) 产品结构、工艺、材料有重大改变时; b) 产品长期停产(6个月)后恢复生产时; c) 国家各级质量监督机构提出进行型式检验要求时; d) 正常生产时,每半年至少进行1次常规型式检验。 5.3.2 抽样数量 抽样按产品批量(L)随机抽验: a) L≤100,抽验3件(套); b) 100<L≤500,抽验5件(套); c) 500<L≤1000,抽验20件(套); d) L>1000,抽验30件(套)。 委托检验时,可用与样品一致的原料进行检验,可从生产该批产品的原料中抽取3张皮革,0.5织品,适量毛皮、羽绒羽毛检验理化性能指标。 5.4 特殊型式检验 应符合附录B的规定。 5.5 成品等级划分规则 成品等级划分以缺陷是否存在及其轻重程度为依据。抽样样本中的单件产品以缺陷的数量及其轻重程度划分等级,批量产品的等级以抽样样本中单件产品的品等划分。 5.5.1 缺陷定义 单件产品不符合本标准所规定的要求即构成缺陷。按照产品不符合标准和对产品的使用性能、外观的影响程度,缺陷分为3类: a) 轻微缺陷:轻微不符合标准的规定,但不影响产品的使用性能,对产品的外观有较小影响的缺陷称为轻微缺陷; b) 一般缺陷:较大程度不符合标准的规定,但不影响产品的使用性能,对产品的外观有略明显影响的缺陷称为一般缺陷; c) 严重缺陷:严重降低、影响产品的基本使用功能,严重影响产品外观的缺陷称为严重缺陷。 5.5.2 缺陷判定依据 按缺陷程度分: a) 轻微缺陷:定量指标中,超过标准值50%以内(含)的缺陷:定性指标中,轻微不符合标准规定的缺陷; b) 一般缺陷:定量指标中,超过标准值50%以上、100%以内(含)的缺陷:定性指标中,较大程度不符合标准规定的缺陷;号型标志表示方法不符合国家标准规定,为一般缺陷; c) 严重缺陷:定量指标中,超过标准值100%以上的缺陷;不符合强制性标准规定;皮革表面裂面、裂浆、掉浆:严重掉色;严重色花、油腻;破损、熨烫伤,较严重、大面积的伤残,刀伤超过厚度的二分之一;使用粘合衬部位严重脱胶、渗胶、起皱,毛皮掉毛严重等;成品表面出现15m以上断表面缝纫线,拉链损坏等,均为严重缺陷。 注:定量指标为本标准中有数值规定的指标。 5.6 合格判定 5.6.1 单件判定规则 a) 优等品: 严重缺陷数=0,一般缺陷数=0,轻微缺陷数≤3。 b) 合格品: 1) 严重缺陷数=0,一般缺陷数=0,轻微缺陷数≤8; 2) 严重缺陷数=0,一般缺陷数=1,轻微缺陷数≤6; 3) 严重缺陷数=0,一般缺陷数=2,轻微缺陷数≤4。 5.6.2 批量判定规则 优等品批:抽验样本全部达到优等品要求,则判该批产品为优等品。 合格品批:抽验样本全部达到合格品要求,则判该批产品合格。 若有1件(及以上)样本不合格,应进行二次抽验,抽验数量应增加1倍,若仍不符合本标准规定,应全部整修、降等或不合格产品处理。 5.7 产品售后质量综合判定 参见附录D的规定。 6 标志、包装、运输和贮存 6.1 标志 6.1.1 经检验合格的产品应有以下标志: ——单位名称(生产单位或经销单位)、单位地址、联系电话、商标、产品合格证(或检验标志);进口产品应标注产地;应附必要的产品使用(维护保养)说明; ——产品使用(维护保养)说明应以简明文字标明皮革服装的清洁、维护、保养方法,穿、用和贮存条件的注意事项,必要的售后服务规定; ——必要时,产品外包装应包括产品名称、货号、颜色、数量、贮存(防护)标志等。 6.1.2 产品标签应包括以下内容:产品名称、产品标准编号、号型(规格)、货号、主体材质(少量、装饰性类材质可不标注)、填充物、合格(检验)标识。 ——主体皮革材质应标注动物种类(可标注大类),如羊皮革、猪皮革、牛皮革等; ——主体皮革材质采用剖层皮革,应标注“剖层”字样; ——主体纺织材料应标注主要纤维成分(单一纤维含量超过10%),纤维含量允许偏差±5%; ——羽绒羽毛填充物应标注填充物成分(绒子含量不小于50%,标注羽绒;绒子含量小于50%,标注羽毛)、填充物质量(填充量)、绒子含量; ——毛皮领子、面积较大的毛皮辅料应标注动物种类(可标注大类),如羊毛皮、兔毛皮、狐狸毛皮、水貂毛皮等; ——装饰性毛皮可标注为“毛皮”“毛条”; ——特殊工艺、特殊风格宜明示; ——进口产品应标注产地。 6.2 包装 产品的内外包装应采用适宜的包装材料,防止产品受损。 6.3 运输和贮存 应符合下述规定: ——防止曝晒、雨雪淋; ——保持通风干燥,不应重压,防蛀、防潮,避免高温环境; ——远离化学物质、液体侵蚀; ——避免尖锐物品的戳、划。 附录A (规范性附录) 规格允许偏差 A.1 规格允许偏差 规格允许偏差应符合表A.1的规定。 表A.1 规格允许偏差 单位为亳米 部位名称 允许偏差 衣长 ±10 胸围 ±15 袖长 ±10 总肩宽 ±8 领围 ±8 裤长、裙长 ±15 腰围 ±10 A.2 测量方法 将样品摊放平直,扣上钮扣或拉上拉链,恢复自然,按表A.2规定进行检验。 表A.2 测量方法 部位名称 测量方法 前衣长 由领侧最高点垂直量至底边 后衣长 由后领中点垂直量至底边 胸围 扣好钮扣或拉好拉链,正面摊平,沿袖窿底缝横量乘以“2” 袖长 从袖子最高点量至袖口边;从后领接缝中点量至袖口边 总肩宽 从左肩袖接缝处量至右肩袖接缝处(背心包括挂肩边) 领围 领子摊平横量,立领量上口,其他领量下口 裤长 由腰上口沿侧缝摊平垂直量至倴脚口 裙长 由腰上口垂直量至底边最下端 腰围 扣好裤扣,拉好拉链,正面摊平,沿腰宽中间横量乘以“2” 注:特殊款式的按设计规定。 附录B (规范性附录) 特殊型式检验 B.1 适用范围 监督抽查、仲裁检验。 B.2 要求 在常规型式检验的基础上,应符合表B.1、表B.2、表B.3、表B.4的规定。 表B.1 皮革理化性能指标 项目 要求 涂层厚度≤15μm 涂层厚度>15μm 撕裂力/N ≥ 9 摩擦色牢度/级 光面革 干擦≥3 湿擦≥2/3 干擦≥3/4 湿擦≥=3 绒面革 黑色革:干擦≥3,湿擦≥2/3 彩色革:干擦≥2/3,湿擦≥2 气味/级 ≤ 3 pH ≥ 3.5 稀释差(当pH<4.0时,检验稀释差) ≤ 0.7 游离甲醛/(mg/kg) 符合GB 20400规定 可分解有害芳香胺染料/(mg/kg) 表B.2 羽绒羽毛填充物质量要求 项目 要求 标称绒子含量a<50% 标称绒子含量a≥50% 填充物质量允许偏差/(%) ≤ -5.0 绒子含量允许偏差/(%) ≤ -5.0 绒丝/(%) ≤ 10.0 羽丝/(%) ≤ 10.0 陆禽毛(%) ≤ 5.0 2.5 损伤毛/(%) ≤ 5.0 3.0 长毛片/(%) ≤ 3.0 2.0 杂质/(%) ≤ 1.5 蓬松度/cm ≥ 7.0 10.0 耗氧量/(mg/100g) ≤ 10.0 浊度/mm ≥ 450 残脂率/(%) ≤ 1.2 鹅毛绒含量b/(%) ≥ 85.0 气味 合格 a 标称绒子含量为<80%的鹅毛绒应分别进行毛、绒种类鉴定,绒子含量≥80%的鹅绒仅需进行绒种类鉴定。 b 样品标称鹅毛绒的,应进行鹅/鸭毛绒种类鉴定。完成成分分析和毛绒种类鉴定时,最终鹅毛绒含量应≥85%。未进行成分分析仅进行毛绒种类鉴定的产品,其归类后鹅毛、归类后鹅绒含量应分别≥85%。仅进行绒种类鉴定的产品,归类后鹅绒含量应≥85%。样品标称鸭毛绒的,无需进行种类鉴定。 表B.3 纺织品理化性能指标 项目 指标 摩擦色牢度/级 干摩擦 ≥ 3 异味 无异味 pH 4.0~9.0 甲醛含量/(mg/kg) 符合GB 18401的规定 可分解致癌芳香胺染料/(mg/kg) 表B.4 毛皮理化性能指标 项目 指标 摩擦色牢度/级 干擦≥3/4,湿擦≥3 (彩色:干擦≥2/3,湿擦≥2) 气味/级 ≤ 3 pH 3.8~6.5 稀释差 (当pH<4.0时,检验稀释差) ≤ 0.7 游离甲醛/(mg/kg) 符合GB 20400要求 可分解有害芳香胺染料/(mg/kg) 毛皮领子耐汗色牢度/级 ≥ 3 毛皮领子耐日晒色牢度/级 ≥ 3 B.3 试验方法 B.3.1 皮革涂层厚度 按GB/T 22889的规定,从皮革摩擦色牢度取样部位的相临部位取样,按GB/T 22889的规定进行检验。 B.3.2 皮革撕裂力 按QB/T 2711的规定,从临近兜口部位、腋下部位或正常穿用造成破损处的相临部位取样,每个部位纵、横取样各1块,按QB/T 2711进行检验,计算各部位纵横结果算术平均值,结果取最小平均值。 如果皮革粘附粘合衬或其他材料,检验时应将粘附材料一同取样、检验;如果取样部位为特殊工艺、特殊风格,如打孔皮革、绗缝工艺等,或相应部位不能正常取样,则应从前大身(或其他部位)取样,如果整件服装均为特殊工艺、特殊风格产品,则不进行撕裂力检验。 B.3.3 皮革摩擦色牢度 按QB/T 2537的规定,从服装领口、袖口部位取样,每个部位纵横取试样各1块,按QB/T 2537进行检验,测试头质量500g,干擦50次,湿擦20次。当不够取样时,应从其他具有代表性的部位取样。 B.3.4 皮革、毛皮气味 按QB/T 2725进行检验。 B.3.5 皮革pH及稀释差 按QB/T 2724进行检验。 B.3.6 皮革、毛皮游离甲醛 按GB/T 19941进行检验。当发生争议、仲裁检验时,以色谱法为准。 B.3.7 皮革、毛皮可分解有害芳香胺染料 按GB/T 19942进行检验。 B.3.8 羽绒羽毛填充物 按GB/T 10288进行检验,填充物质量偏差率按附录C进行检验。 B.3.9 纺织品耐干摩擦 按GB/T 3920进行检验。 B.3.10 纺织品异味 按GB 18401的规定进行检验。 B.3.11 纺织品pH 按GB/T 7573进行检验。 B.3.12 纺织品甲醛含量 按GB/T 2912.1进行检验。 B.3.13 纺织品可 分解致癌芳香胺染料 按GB/T 17592进行检验。 B.3.14 毛皮摩擦色牢度 按QB/T 2790进行检验,干擦26次,湿擦26次。 B.3.15 毛皮pH及稀释差 按QB/T 1277的规定进行检验。 B.3.16 毛皮领子耐汗色牢度 按QB/T 2924进行检验。 B.3.17 毛皮领子耐日晒色牢度 按QB/T 2925进行检验。 B.4 合格判定 B.2要求中有1项不合格,即判该产品不合格。 附录C (规范性附录) 羽绒羽毛填充物质量偏差的计算 C.1 仪器、工具 台秤,精确到0.1g。 C.2 测量环境 在GB/T 6529规定的标准大气[温度(20.0±2.0)℃,相对湿度(65.0±4.0)%]条件下进行。 C.3 测量步骤 a) 将待测样品展开摊平在标准大气中平衡24h以上; b) 对待测样品进行称重,质量记做G1(精确到0.1g); c) 拆除样品的绗线; d) 取出所有羽绒填充料; e) 对样品外壳及拆除的绗线合并称重,质量记做G2精确到0.1g)。 C.4 填充物质量计算 填充物质量按公式(C.1)计算,计算结果保留至0.1: m=G1-G2 (C.1) 式中: m——填充物质量,单位为克(g) G1——待测样品质量,单位为克(g); G2——样品外壳及拆除的绗线质量,单位为克(g)。 C.5 填充物质量偏差 按公式(C.2)计算,计算结果保留至0.1: (C.2) 式中: M——填充物质量偏差率,%; m1——填充物质量实测值,单位为克(g); m0——填充物质量明示值,单位为克(g)。 附录D (资料性附录) 充绒内胆皮革服装售后质量综合判定 D.1 售后服务期限 由生产单位(或经销单位)按产品档次确定,并以适当方式明示。服务期限自产品售出之日起,不应少于3个月。 D.2 综合判定 D.2.1 售后服务期限内,正常穿用、保管情况下出现以下问题(特殊工艺、特殊风格产品除外),经仲裁检验,可判为质量问题。 ——皮革面料明显变色、脱色、露底、裂浆、裂面(特殊风格除外),涂饰层脱落; ——大面积开线、开胶,粘合村部位出现严重气泡,主要缝合部位出现明显泡线; ——衬里与皮衣面料不相附,吊紧或拔宽; ——正常穿用时袋口、主要缝合部位出现面料开裂、破损等情况。 D.2.2 非正常穿用、维护、贮存情况下出现以下问题,不属于质量问题。 ——皮革表面受到外界的戳、划、扯、拽等造成的破损: ——皮革受到化学物质、雨、雪、液体等的侵蚀造成的损害: ——皮革服装非正常穿用、贮存、保养造成的损害。 D.3 处理方法 产品出现D.2.1规定的质量问题时,在售后服务期限内,生产单位(经销单位)应承担相应的修理、更换、退货的责任和义务。经两次修理仍不能达到正常要求的,应当根据消费者的要求负责更换或者退货。 |
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