1 Scope
This standard specifies the requirements, test methods, inspection classification rules, marking, packaging, transportation and storage with regards to women's suits and coats.
This standard is applicable to woolen garments like women's suits and coats mainly made of woven fabrics such as wool, wool blended and interweaved products and wool-like products.
2 Normative References
The following documents contain provisions which, through reference in this text, constitute provisions of this standard. For dated references, subsequent amendments to (excluding corrections to), or revisions of, any of these publications do not apply. However, the parties coming to an agreement according to this standard are encouraged to research whether the latest editions of these documents apply or not. For undated references, the latest editions of the normative documents are applicable to this standard.
GB/T 250 "Textiles-Tests for Colour Fastness-Grey Scale for Assessing Change in Colour"
GB/T 1335.2 "Standard Sizing Systems for Garments-Women"
GB/T 1335.3 "Standard Sizing Systems for Garments-Children"
GB/T 2910 "Textile-Binary Fibre Mixtures-Quantitative Chemical Analysis"
GB/T 2911 "Textile-Ternary Fibre Mixtures-Quantitative Chemical Analysis"
GB/T 2912.1 "Textiles-Determination of Formaldehyde-Part 1:Free and Hydrolized Formaldehyde(Water Extraction Method)"
GB/T 3917.2 "Textiles-Tear Properties of Fabrics-Part 2: Determination of Tear Force of Trouser-shaped Test Specimens (Single Tear Method)"
GB/T 3920 "Textiles-Tests for Colour Fastness-Colour Fastness to Rubbing"
GB/T 3921 "Textiles-Tests for Colour Fastness-Colour Fastness to Washing with Soap or Soap and Soda"
GB/T 4802.1 "Textiles-Determination of Fabric Propensity to Surface Fuzzing and to Pilling-Part 1: Circular Locus Method"
GB/T 4841.3 "Colour Cards of Standard Depths for Dyeing with Dyestuffs 2/1, 1/3, 1/6, 1/12, 1/25"
GB 5296.4 "Instructions for Use of Products of Consumer Interest--Instructions for Use of Textiles and Apparel"
GB/T 5711 "Textiles-Tests for Colour Fastness-Colour Fastness to Dry Cleaning"
GB/T 5713 "Textiles-Tests for Colour Fastness-Colour Fastness to Water"
GB/T 7573 "Textiles--Determination of pH of the Aqueous Extract"
GB/T 8170 "Rules of Rounding off for Numerical Values & Expression and Judgment of Limiting Values"
GB/T 8427-2008 "Textiles-Tests for Colour Fastness-Colour Fastness to Artificial Light: Xenon Arc Fading Lamp Test"
GB/T 8630 "Textiles-Determination of Dimensional Change in Washing and Drying"
GB/T 14304 "Sizes for Woollen Suits"
GB/T 16988 "Quantitative Determination for Mixtures of Special Animal Fibre and Wool"
GB/T 17592 "Textiles-Determination of the Banned Azo Colourants"
GB 18401 "National General Safety Technical Code for Textile Products"
FZ/T 01026 "Textile-Quaternary Fibre Mixtures-Quantitative Chemical Analysis"
FZ/T 01048 "Determination Method for Blending Ratio of Silk and Cashmere Blended Textiles"
FZ/T 01053 "Textiles-Identification of Fiber Content"
FZ/T 01057 "(All Parts) Test Method for Identification of Textile Fibres"
FZ/T 80002 "Marking, Packaging, Transportation and Storage for Garments"
FZ/T 80004 "Rule for Garments Delivery Inspection"
FZ/T 80007.1 "Test Method of Peeled off Strength Value for Garments used Adhesive Interlining"
FZ/T 80007 3 "Dry Wash Resistance Test Method for Garments Used Adhesive Interlining"
3 Requirements
3.1 Instructions for use
Instructions for use shall comply with GB 5296.4 and GB 18401.
3.2 Size and specification
3.2.1 The size setting may be carried out according to GB/T 1335.2 and GB/T 1335.3.
3.2.2 Specifications for main parts of finished products shall be designed at discretion according to the relevant requirements of GB/T 1335.2, GB/T 1335.3 and GB/T 14304.
3.3 Raw materials
3.3.1 Shell fabric
Shell fabrics conforming to quality requirements of this standard shall be selected according to the relevant textile shell fabric standards of the nation.
3.3.2 Lining
Except those in special design, the linings with property and color matching with those of shell fabrics used shall be adopted.
3.3.3 Accessory fabrics
3.3.3.1 Lining cloth
Lining cloth with property and color matching with those of shell fabric used shall be adopted.
3.3.3.2 Shoulder pad
The shoulder pad made of cottons or chemical fibres shall be adopted.
3.3.3.3 Stitch thread
Stitch threads suitable to qualities of shell fabrics, accessory fabrics and linings used shall be adopted. The button thread shall be suitable to the button in colour; the trademark thread shall be suitable to the trademark ground colour (except the ornamental thread).
3.3.3.4 Buttons and accessories
Buttons (excluding ornamental buckles) and accessories suitable to shell fabrics used shall be adopted. Buttons and accessories adopted shall be smooth and durable, and shall be free from deformation, discoloration, rust and paint peeling off after being washed and ironed.
3.4 Warp and weft directions
3.4.1 Front: the front warp shall be subject to the neck width line and shall not be oblique.
3.4.2 Back: the back warp shall be subject to the dorsal line under the waistline; the deflection of the tailored suit shall not be greater than 0.5cm; that of the coat shall not be greater than 1.0cm, and the stripes and plaids shall not be deflective.
3.4.3 Sleeve: the warp shall be subject to the inseam; the deflection of the topside sleeve shall not be greater than 1.0cm, and that of the underside sleeve shall not be greater than 1.5cm (except those processed with special technology).
3.4.4 Top collar: the deflection of weft shall not be greater than 0.5cm and the stripes and plaids shall not be deflective.
3.4.5 Pocket flap: consistent with the yarn direction of body piece; deflected materials are bilaterally symmetrical.
3.4.6 Facing: subject to the warp at the front edge of lapel and not deflective.
3.5 Stripes and plaids matching
3.5.1 Apparent stripes or plaids over 1.0cm or above, if on the shell fabric, shall comply with the requirements of Table 1.
Foreword I
1 Scope
2 Normative References
3 Requirements
4 Inspection Methods
5 Inspection Classification Rules
6 Marking, Packaging, Transport and Storage
Appendix A (Normative) Test Methods for Slipping Degree of Seam
