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This standard is modified in relation to the International Wool Secretariat standard TWC K1: 2000 "Knitting Garment Products". Compared with TWCK1: 2000, this standard has the following major differences:
——This standard was compiled according to the compiling procedures of Chinese product standards;
——Products were classified from 7 categories to 5 categories;
——Requirements for the product safety were added according to China's national conditions and relevant laws and regulations;
——Washing was classified into dry wash, careful hand wash and machine washable;
——Relevant requirements for the pure wool products allowed to contain non-wool fiber coordinated with Chinese wool spinning product standards, and some specific requirements were added;
——Appearance quality grading content was subdivided;
——Test methods in adoption of the test method standards which have been translated into Chinese national standards or professional standards;
——Inspection rules, packaging and marking contents meet China's national conditions and relevant laws and regulations.
This standard replaces FZ/T 73003-1991 "Combing Wool Knitting Goods", FZ/T 73004-1991 "Clothing Wool Knitting Goods" and FZ/T 24006-1995 "Combing Light Wool Knitting Goods". Superior quality products in this standard are equivalent to the international advanced level; first-grade products in this standard are equivalent to the international general level.
Compared with FZ/T 73003—1991, FZ/T 73004—1991 and FZ/T 24006—1995, this standard has the following major changes:
——Original "Combing Wool Knitting Goods", "Clothing Wool Knitting Goods" and "Combing Light Wool Knitting Goods" were combined into one standard;
——The application scope was changed to: applicable to pure combing wool knitting goods, pure clothing wool knitting goods and wool blend knitting goods containing 30% or above wool;
——Variety classification and washing mode classification of wool knitting goods were added;
——Requirements for product safety were added in the technical requirements;
——Product grades were divided into superior quality product, first-grade product and second-grade product;
——Product grading shall be based on the inherent quality and appearance quality. In the inherent quality grading, more detailed additional requirements were made for the fiber content of pure wool products, oxter seam stress assessment indexes were deleted, weight deviation ratio of single piece was changed to in accordance with the requirements of the contract between the supplier and the purchaser, water-washing dimensional change ratio was respectively assessed according to the different washing modes of products, and some color fastness indexes were increased; in the appearance quality grading, grading requirements for the material object quality and spirality angle were added, and relevant provisions were simplified;
——Relevant contents were simplified in the inspection rules; determination requirements for the lot inspection were added;
——Marking requirements for the specification and size of wool knitting goods were added in the packaging and marking.
Appendix A of this standard is normative.
This standard was proposed by China National Textile and Apparel Council.
This standard is under the jurisdiction of Wool Textile Subcommittee of Technical Committee on Textiles of Standardization Administration of China (CSBTS /TC 209/SC 3).
Beijing Wool Textile Research Institute is responsible for the drafting of this standard.
Chief drafting staffs: Chen Jihong, Sun Shouchun, Li Lirong.
The previous editions of the standards replaced by this standard are as:
——FJ 198-1979, ZB W63 001-1986, FZ/T 73003-1991;
——ZB W63 002-1986, FZ/T 73004-1991;
——FZ/T 24006-1995.
NOTE: The English version hereof has been translated by codeofchina.com directly from the openly-published Chinese standard FZ/T 73018-2002. In the event of any discrepancy in the process of implementation, the Chinese version shall prevail. Please contact +86-10-8572 5655 for ordering more English-translated Chinese standards.
Wool Knitting Goods
1 Scope
This standard specifies all the technical features such as classification, technical requirements, test methods, inspection rules, packaging and markings for the wool knitting goods.
This standard is applicable to assess the quality of pure combing wool knitting goods, pure clothing wool knitting goods and wool blend knitting goods containing 30% or above wool.
2 Normative References
The following standards contain provisions which, through reference in this text, constitute provisions of this standard. For dated reference, subsequent amendments to (excluding correction to), or revisions of, any of these publications do not apply. However, the parties to agreements based on this standard are encouraged to investigate the possibility of applying the most recent editions of the standards. For undated references, the latest edition of the normative document referred to applies.
GB 250 Gray scale for assessing change in colour (GB 250-1995, idt ISO 105/A02: 1993)
GB/T 2910 Textile--Binary fiber mixtures--Quantitative chemical analysis (GB/T 2910-1997, eqv ISO 1833: 1977)
GB/T 2911 Textiles--Ternary fiber mixtures--Quantitative analysis (GB/T 2911-1997, eqv ISO 5088: 1976)
GB/T 3920 Textiles—Tests for colour fastness—Colour fastness to rubbing (GB/T 3920-1997, eqv ISO 105-X12: 1993)
GB/T 3922 Textiles--Testing method for colour fastness to perspiration (GB/T 3922-1995, eqv ISO 105/E04: 1994)
GB/T 1802.3 Textiles-Assessing the rate of pilling of fabrics-Pilling box method
GB/T 4856 Package of cotton goods and knitwear
GB 5296.4 Instructions for use of products of consumer interest--Instructions for use of textiles and apparel
GB/T 5713 Textiles-Tests for colour fastness-Colour fastness to water (GB/T 5713-1997, eqv ISO 105-E01: 1994)
GB/T 7742 Textiles-Determination of bursting strength and bursting distension-Diaphragm method (GB/T 7742-1987, neq ISO 2960: 1974)
GB/T 8170 Rules for Rounding off of Numerical Values
GB/T 8427-1998 Textiles - Tests for color fastness - Color fastness to artificial light: Xenon arc fading lamp test (eqv ISO 105-B02: 1994)
GB 9994 Conventional moisture regains of textiles
GB/T 9995 Determination of conventional moisture regains of textiles
GB/T 12490-1990 Textiles--Testing method for colour fastness to domestic and commercial laundering (neq ISO 105/C06: 1987)
GB/T 16988 Quantitative determination for mixtures of special animal fiber and wool
FZ/T 01026 Quaternary fiber mixtures - Quantitative chemical analysis
FZ/T 01053 Textiles-Identification of fiber content
FZ/T 20011 Test method for determining the angle of spirality in knitted wool garments
FZ/T 20018 Determination of dichloromethane-soluble matter in wool textiles (FZ/T 20018—2000, eqv ISO 3074: 1998)
FZ/T 70008 Method for determination of the cover factor of wool knitted fabrics
FZ/T 70009 Method for determination of relaxation and felting shrinkage of wool textiles after machine washing
3 Classification of Wool Knitting Goods
3.1 By variety:
——Cardigan, slipover, vest;
——Trousers, skirt;
——Underwear;
——Socks;
——Small clothes (including hat, scarf and gloves).
3.2 By washing mode:
——Dry wash;
——Careful hand wash;
——Machine washable.
4 Technical Requirements
Technical requirements include safety requirements, grading requirements and grading for inherent quality and appearance quality.
4.1 Safety requirements
Safety of wool knitting goods shall meet the requirements of the relevant compulsory national standards.
4.2 Grading requirements
Grading of wool knitting goods, taking piece as the unit, shall be assessed according to the inspection results of inherent quality and appearance quality, and graded by the minimum item therein. Wool knitting goods are divided into superior quality product, first-grade product and second-grade product, and those lower than second-grade product shall be graded as substandard product.
4.3 Inherent quality grading
4.3.1 Inherent quality grading shall take lot as unit (each delivery unit of the same product is a lot).
4.3.2 Inherent quality grading depends on overall assessment of physical index and color fastness; and shall be graded by the minimum item therein.
4.3.3 Physical indexes of all the products that must be assessed shall be graded according to those specified in Table 1.
Table 1
Item Limit Superior quality product First-grade product Second-grade product Remarks
Fiber content /(%) Wool content of pure wool product — 100 Detailed in Appendix A
Wool fiber content decrease in mixture (absolute percentage) Not greater than 3 3 5 Note: if certain fiber content is below 10% in the finished product, the absolute value of its content deviation shall not be greater than 30% of label content.
Bursting strength /kPa(kgf/cm2) Combing
Not less than 323(3.3) <31.2 tex(>32 Nm) 245(2.5)
<20.8 tex(>48 Nm) 196(2.0)
Clothing
225(2.3) <71.4 tex(>14 Nm) 196(2.0)
Knitting tightness coefficient /(mm·tex) Not less than 1.0 Only clothing plain-knitted products assessed
Pilling/grade Not less than 3—4 3 2—3
Dichloromethane soluble substance /(%) Not greater than 1.5 1.7 2.5 Only clothing products assessed
Weight deviation ratio of single piece/(%) — In accordance with those specified in the contract between the supplier and purchaser
Note: only plain-knitted products are assessed for the bursting strength; vest and small clothes are not assessed.
4.3.4 Color fastness shall be graded according to those specified in Table 2.One item is allowable below half grade in first-grade products; if two items of the product are below half grade or one item is below one grade, it shall be degraded as second-grade product; any product below second-grade product shall be degraded as substandard product.
Table 2
Item Limit Superior quality product First-grade product
Light fastness grade >1/12 standard depth (dark color)
≤1/12 standard depth (light color) Not less than 4
3 3—4
3
Washing fastness grade Color and luster variation
Wool cloth staining
Cotton cloth staining Not less than 3—4
4
3—4 3
3
3
Perspiration fastness grade Color and luster variation
Wool cloth staining
Cotton cloth staining Not less than 3—4
4
3—4 3—4
3
3
Water fastness grade Color and luster variation
Wool cloth staining
Cotton cloth staining Not less than 3—4
4
3—4 3
3
3
Friction fastness grade Dry
Wet Not less than 4
3 3—4(dark color 3)
2—3
Note 1: colour fastness to light of underwear product shall be taken as the reference index.
Note 2: dry washing products shall not be assessed for the colour fastness to washing and colour fastness to wet friction.
Note 3: cotton cloth staining of wool mixture shall be changed to the fiber cloth staining of the same category with the major non-wool fiber in the mixture.
4.3.5 Water-washing dimensional change ratio assessment indexes of the products of different washing modes are as follows:
4.3.5.1 Careful hand-washing products shall be in accordance with the requirements of Table 3.
Table 3
Item Cardigan, slipover, vest Trousers, skirt Underwear
Socks Small clothes
Relaxation dimensional change ratio /(%)
Washing procedure Length
Width -10
+5, 8
1×7A —
—
— -10
—
1×7A —
—
—
Felting dimensional change ratio /(%)
Washing procedure Length
Area —
-8
1×7A —
—
— —
-8
1×5A -10
—
1×7A+1×5A —
-8
1×7A+1×7A
Overall dimensional change ratio /(%)
Washing procedure Length
Width
Area -10
-5
-8
2×7A -5
+5
—
2×7A —
—
—
— —
—
—
— —
—
—
—
Note 1: only plain-knitted products are assessed for the relaxation dimensional change ratio.
Note 2: non-milling products such as cardigan, slipover and vest are only assessed for the relaxation and felting dimensional change ratio; milling products are only assessed for the overall dimensional change ratio.
4.3.5.2 Machine washable products shall be in accordance with the requirements of Table 4.
Table 4
Item Cardigan, slipover, vest Trousers, skirt Underwear Socks Small clothes
Relaxation dimensional change ratio/(%)
Washing procedure Length
Width -10
+5, -8
1×7A —
—
— -10
+5
1×7A —
—
— —
—
—
Felting dimensional change ratio/(%)
Washing procedure Length
Area —
-8
2×5A —
—
— —
-8
5×5A -10
—
1×7A+
5×5A —
-8
1×7A+
2×5A
Overall dimensional change ratio/(%)
Washing procedure Length
Width —
—
— -5
+5
3×5A —
—
— —
—
— —
—
—
Note: only plain-knitted products are assessed for the relaxation dimensional change ratio.
4.4 Appearance quality grading
Appearance quality grading shall take piece as unit, including appearance material object quality, size allowable deviation, stitch elongation, neckline undrawing size, spirality angle and appearance defects.
4.4.1 Appearance material object quality grading
Appearance material object quality refers to the style, pattern, surface appearance, color and luster, handfeel and workmanship. Sealed samples meeting the superior quality product shall be graded as superior quality product; sealed samples meeting the first-grade product shall be graded as first-grade product; sealed samples relatively obviously inferior to the first-grade product shall be graded as second-grade product; sealed samples obviously inferior to the first-grade product shall be graded as substandard product.
4.4.2 Size allowable deviation of major specification
Length direction: 80 cm and above ±2.0 cm;
80 cm below±1.5 cm.
Width direction: ±1.0 cm.
Symmetrical deviation: ≤1.0 cm.
Note 1: Size allowable deviation of major specification refers to the difference between the actual size and design size or labeled size of coat length, chest width (1/2 chest girth) and sleeve length of sweater; trouser length, straight crotch and transverse crotch of long woolen underwear; skirt length and hip girth of skirt; width and 1/2 length of scarf.
Note 2: Symmetrical deviation refers to the symmetrical difference of the same product, such as the difference of two sleeve length of sweater and two trouser length of long woolen underwear.
4.4.3 Stitch elongation
Flat stitch shall not be less than 10%; overlock stitch shall not be less than 20%; chain stitch shall not be less than 30% (including hand stitch).
4.4.4 Neckline undrawing size of sweater
Adult: ≥30 cm; child: ≥28 cm; baby: ≥26 cm.
4.4.5 Spirality angle of garments
Spirality angle of garments≤5°(Only plain-knitted products are assessed).
4.4.6 Appearance defects grading
In accordance with the requirements of Table 5
Foreword i
Wool Knitting Goods
1 Scope
2 Normative References
3 Classification of Wool Knitting Goods
4 Technical Requirements
5 Test Methods
6 Inspection Rules
7 Packaging and Marking
8 Others
Appendix A (Normative) Several Items of Supplementary Provisions
