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This standard replaces GB/T 14272-1993 "Down Garments".
Compared with GB/T 14272-1993, this standard has the following major changes:
——Technical requirements related to the accessories and appearance quality requirements were added;
——Down quantity of finished product garment was improved from "not less than 45%" to "not less than 50%";
——Allowable deviation of down-filling quantity of finished product garment was -5%;
——The inspection requirements for the microorganism state (mesophilic aerobic bacteria, streptococcus faecalis, sulfurous acid reduced clostridium and salmonella) of feather and down were added;
——"The color difference between top and trouser in a suit shall not be less than Grade 3~4" was added;
——Requirements for the colour fastness to washing, color fastness to wet friction and colour fastness to light were added;
——Formaldehyde content released from the finished product ≤300mg/kg was added;
——Requirements for the allowable degree of pH value of finished product 4.0 ~ 9.0 were added;
——Sample single piece judgment requirements were improved;
——Contents of down garments finished product defect judgment were supplemented and consummated;
——Appendix C "Testing method of down-filling quantity" was added.
Appendix A "Test Methods for Slipping Degree of Seam" of this standard adopts by reference to the provisions in FZ/T20019-1999 "Test Method for Determining the Seam Slipping of Wool Woven Fabrics".
Appendix A, Appendix B and Appendix C of this standard are normative.
This standard was proposed by China National Textile and Apparel Council.
This standard is under the jurisdiction of the National Technical Committee 219 on Garments of Standardization Administration of China.
Shanghai Garment Research Institute, National Garments Quality Inspection and Supervision Center (Shanghai) are Professional Committee of China's Down Products are responsible for drafting this standard. Jiangsu Kangbo Group Co., Ltd. is participating in drafting this standard.
Chief drafting staffs: Xu Jian, Xu Yunbao, Zhou Xipu, Chen Lu, Zheng Jinyang, Qin Wei, Gao Dekang.
This standard was issued for the first time in 1993, and this was the first revision.
Down Garments
1 Scope
This standard specifies the requirements, inspection (testing) method, inspection classification rules as well as marking, packaging, transportation, storage and other technical features for the down garments.
This standard is applicable to the mass-produced garments with textile fabrics as raw material and down as filler.
2 Normative References
The following standards contain provisions which, through reference in this text, constitute provisions of this standard. For dated reference, subsequent amendments to (excluding correction to), or revisions of, any of these publications do not apply. However, the parties to agreements based on this standard are encouraged to investigate the possibility of applying the most recent editions of the standards. For undated references, the latest edition of the normative document referred to applies.
GB 250 Gray scale for assessing change in colour
GB 251 Gray scale for assessing staining
GB/T 1335(all parts) Size designation of clothes
GB/T 2910-1997 Textile - Binary fiber mixtures - Quantitative chemical analysis
GB/T 2911-1997 Textiles - Ternary fiber mixtures - Quantitative analysis
GB/T 291 2.1-1997 Textiles - Determination of Formaldehyde - Part 1: Free and Hydrolyzed Formaldehyde (Water Extraction Method)
GB/T 3920-1997 Textiles - Tests for colour fastness - Colour fastness to rubbing
GB/T 3921-1997 Textiles-Tests for colour fastness-Colour fastness to washing
GB/T 3923.1-1997 Textiles - Tensile properties of fabrics - Part 1: Determination of breaking force and elongation at breaking force--Strip method
GB 5296.4 Instructions for use of products of consumer interest - Instructions for use of textiles and apparel
GB/T 5453-1997 Textiles - Determination of the permeability of fabrics to air
GB 6529 Textiles-Standard Atmospheres for Conditioning and Testing
GB/T 7573-1987 Textiles - Determination of pH of the aqueous extract
GB/T 8427-1998 Textiles - Tests for color fastness - Color fastness to artificial light: Xenon arc fading lamp test
FZ/T 20019-1999 Test method for determining the seam slipping of wool woven fabrics
FZ/T 80001 Testing method for washed feather and down
FZ/T 80002 Marking packaging transportation and storage for garments
FZ/T 81002 Washed feather and down
3 Requirements
3.1 Requirements in instructions for use
Instructions for use shall comply with the requirements of GB 5296.4.
3.2 Requirements in size designation
3.2.1 Size designation setting shall comply with the requirements of GB/T 1335.
3.2.2 Specifications of main positions of finished product shall be designed by self according to the relevant requirements of GB/T 1335.
3.3 Raw material requirements
3.3.1 Shell fabric
It shall be selected according to the relevant textile shell fabric standards.
3.3.2 Lining
3.3.2.1 Except the special requirements, the lining with property and color matching with shell fabric used shall be adopted.
3.3.2.2 Airtight film shall not be used.
3.3.2.3 The fabrics directly contacting the down must have the down-drilling-resistant property.
3.3.3 Accessories
3.3.3.1 Interlining
Interlining suitable for shell fabric shall be adopted, and the shrinkage ratio hereof shall be suitable to the one of the shell fabric.
3.3.3.2 Stitch thread
Stitch thread matching the quality of accessories and linings used shall be adopted. Button thread shall be suitable to button in color; trademark thread shall be suitable to trademark ground colour (except ornamental thread).
3.3.3.3 Button and auxiliaries
Button (except ornamental button) and auxiliaries of suitability to shell fabric used shall be adopted. Buttons and auxiliaries shall be free of deformation and discoloring after washing and ironing.
3.4 Filler requirements
3.4.1 Down quantity in the finished product shall not be less than 50% and its deviation shall be one percentage point higher than the index specified in FZ/T 81002.
3.4.2 Allowable deviation of down-filling quantity in finished product is -5%.
3.4.3 Down quantity, bulking intensity, oxygen consumption, cleanness, peculiar smell and microorganism (mesophilic aerobic bacteria, streptococcus faecalis, sulfurous acid reduced clostridium and salmonella) indexes in the down shall be implemented in accordance with FZ/T 81002.
3.5 Specifications of warp and weft directions
3.5.1 Front warp shall be subject to the closure line and shall not be inclined.
3.5.2 Back warp shall be subject to the dorsal line and its inclination shall not be greater than 1.0cm; the inclination of coat shall not be greater than 1.5cm, and stripe and plaid materials shall not be inclined.
3.5.3 Sleeve warp shall be subject to the middle line of fore sleeve and the inclination of topside sleeve shall not be greater than 1.0cm; the inclination of underside sleeve shall not be greater than 1.5cm (except the special craft).
3.5.4 Allowable degrees of front fly of right warping (converse warping is not allowable), back fly, sleeve and front/back trouser pieces shall meet the requirements of Table 1.
Table 1 Unit: %
Shell fabric Grade
Superior quality product First-grade product Qualified product
Mixed colored ≤3 ≤4 ≤5
Colored woven or printed, checks ≤2 ≤2.5 ≤3
3.6 Requirements on stripe or plaid matching
3.6.1 Apparent stripes or plaids of over 1.0cm, if on shell fabric, shall comply with the requirements of Table 2.
Table 2
Position Requirements on stripe or plaid matching Remarks
Front
Stripe straight and smooth; plaid matching of plaid material; the mutual deviation shall not be greater than 0.3cm. If the sizes of plaids are different, take the upper part of one third front.
Pocket, flap and body piece Stripe matching of strip material; plaid matching of plaid material; the mutual deviation shall not be greater than 0.3cm. In case of different plaid size, subject to the center of the bag front.
Collar point
Stripe and plaid shall be symmetrical; the mutual deviation shall not be greater than 0.3cm. If checker board weaves exist, take the obvious one.
Sleeve
Two sleeves are smooth and straight, and of symmetrical stripes and plaids matching; and the mutual deviation based on sleeve cap is not greater than 1.0cm. —
Trouser side seam The plaid materials at 10cm below the side seam pocket opening shall be horizontally aligned, and the mutual deviation shall not be larger than 0.5cm. —
Front/back crotch seam Stripe and plaid shall be symmetrical; plaid matching of plaid material; the mutual deviation shall not be greater than 0.5cm. —
3.6.2 Fabric and velvet, checker board weave material shall be in the same direction in the whole body (the whole part of long-hair raw materials shall be in the same direction).
3.6.3 Shell fabric with special pattern shall subject to the main pettern be in the same direction in the whole body.
3.7 Requirements in color difference
Colour difference of sleeve seam and side seam shall not be less than Grade 3~4, and that on other surface positions shall not be less than Grade 4.Colour difference caused by the interlining adhered or multi-layer materials shall not be less than Grade 3~4.The color difference between top and trouser in a suit shall not be less than Grade 3~4.
3.8 Appearance quality requirements
The allowable existence degree of appearance defect at each position of the finished product with cotton cloth and washing cotton as the shell fabric shall be in accordance with those specified in Table 3. The allowable existence degree of appearance defect at each position of the finished product with nylon shioze as the shell fabric shall be in accordance with those specified in Table 4. Position classification of finished product is detailed in Figures 1a), 1b), 1c) and 1d). Only one defect is allowable on each independent position, and the defects not listed in this Standard shall, by its form, comply with the requirements of Tables 3 and 4.
Table 3
Defect name The allowable existence degree at each position
Position 1 Position 2 Position 3
3 roots thicker than twice roving Unallowable 1~2 cm 2.1~4 cm
4 roots thicker than three times of roving Unallowable Unallowable 1~1.5 cm
Warp shrinkage Unallowable Not obvious 2 cm long, 0.5 cm long
Granular roving Unallowable Unallowable Unallowable
Shade bar Unallowable Not affecting the overall appearance Not wider than 0.2 cm
Stain Unallowable Not affecting the overall appearance Not greater than 0.2 cm2
Table 4
Defect name Allowable existence degree at each position of nylon shioze raw material
Position 1 Position 2 Position 3
Missing warp (weft) Unallowable Unallowable Unallowable
Weft bar
Unallowable Not affecting the overall appearance Not wider than 0.2 cm
Stain Unallowable Not affecting the overall appearance Not greater than 0.2 cm2
Figure 1
3.9 Sewing requirements
3.9.1 Requirements for the transverse quilting threads on the surface are detailed in Table 5.
Table 5
Position name Requirements on plaid matching of surface quilting thread
Overlap
Left, right and front quilting thread, mutual deviation not greater than 0.4cm
No overlap Left, right and front quilting thread, mutual deviation not greater than 0.3cm
Sleeve line Quilting thread aligned, mutual deviation not greater than 0.6cm
Side seam
Front and back quilting thread aligned, mutual deviation not greater than 0.6cm
Lower crotch seam of trousers Front and back quilting thread aligned, mutual deviation not greater than 0.8cm
3.9.2 Longitudinal quilting threads on the surface shall be symmetrical on the left and right.
3.9.3 Needle pitch density shall meet the requirements of Table 6.
Table 6
Item Needle pitch density Remarks
Open/blind thread 12~16 stitches each 3 cm Except the particular case
Quilting thread
9~12 stitches each 3 cm —
Buttonholing
Not less than 14 stitches each 1 cm Thin line
Buttoning
Not less than 8 threads each hole Thin line
Overseam
9~12 stitches each 3 cm —
3.9.4 Sewing lines on each position shall be smooth, straight, regular, flat and firm. Main surface position and sewing shrivel degree shall meet the requirements of "Grade 5 Sample Photographs of down Garments Appearance Defects and Sewing Wrinkles" and shall not be less than Grade 3.
3.9.5 Upper and lower threads are tightened properly, free of broken thread. Back stitching shall be arranged on the first and last stitch.
3.9.6 The collar shall be flat, and the tightness of collar flat shall be proper.
3.9.7 Set sleeve shall be smooth, and basically consistent in front and back.
3.9.8 Trademark, size mark, component mark, and washing mark shall be located upright, clear and accurate.
3.9.9 Each position shall not skip stitch twice and continuously skip stitch within 30cm of seaming stitch; overchain stitch is not allowed to skip thread.
3.10 The limit deviation of specification on main position of the finished product shall be in accordance with those specified in Table 7.
Table 7 Unit: cm
No. Position name Limit deviation
Coat, short overcoat Medium, long overcoat Children’s coat Children’s medium, long overcoat Trousers Children’s trousers
1 Coat length ±2.0 ±2.5 ±1.5 ±2.0 — —
2 Chest girth ±2.5 ±2.5 ±2.0 ±2.0 — —
3 Collar size ±1.0 ±1.0 ±1.0 ±1.0 — —
4 Sleeve length Inset sleeve ±1.5 ±1.5 ±1.0 ±1.0 — —
Raglan sleeve ±2.0 ±2.0 ±1.5 ±1.5 — —
5 Total shoulder width ±1.2 ±1.2 ±1.0 ±1.0 — —
6 Trousers length — — — — ±2.5 ±2.0
7 Waist girth — — — — ±2.0 ±1.5
3.11 Ironing appearance requirements
3.11.1 Each position shall be ironed flat, neat, and free from burnt stain, water stain and light.
3.11.2 The position covered with adhesive interlining shall be free from degumming, strike-through and wrinkling.
3.12 Physical and chemical property requirements
3.12.1 Colour fastness requirements
Allowable degree of colour fastness to washing, color fastness to wet friction and colour fastness to light for the finished products shall be in accordance with Table 8.
Table 8 Unit: grade
Item Allowable degree of colour fastness
Superior quality product First-grade product, qualified product
Washing fastness Discoloration ≥4 ≥3—4
Staining ≥4 ≥3—4
Wet friction fastness Staining ≥4 ≥3—4
Dry friction fastness Staining ≥4 ≥3—4
Light fastness Discoloration ≥4
Note: colour fastness of silk-based shell fabric shall be assessed according to the silk garment standards.
3.12.2 Sewing stress requirements
Allowable slipping degree of the seams on the main positions of finished product shall not be greater than 0.4cm. Seam stress of trouser back crotch seam of finished product shall not be less than 80 N.
3.12.3 Formaldehyde content released from the finished product
Formaldehyde content released from the finished product: ≤300 mg/kg.
3.12.4 PH value of finished product
Allowable degree is 4.0~9.0.
3.12.5 Component and content of raw material in the finished product
It shall correspond with the contents marked on the instructions for use.
4 Inspection (Testing) Method
4.1 Inspection tools
4.1.1 Steel tape.
4.1.2 Counter scale.
4.1.3 Needle detector.
4.1.4 Gray scale for assessing change in colour (GB 250).
4.1.5 Gray scale for assessing staining (GB 251).
4.1.6 Grade 5 sample photographs of down garments appearance defects and sewing wrinkles.
4.1.7 Appearance defect sample photographs of men and women single, cotton wadded clothes and men, women and children single garment.
4.2 Determination of the finished product specification
4.2.1 Specification of finished product on the main positions shall be in accordance with those specified in 3.2.2.
4.2.2 The measuring method of the main position of the finished products shall be according to those specified in Table 9 and Figure 2; the allowable deviation shall be according to those specified in 3.10.
Table 9
No. Position name Measuring method
1 Coat length Flatly measure from the highest point of the front shoulder seam to the hem, or vertically measure from the middle of back collar to the hem.
2 Chest girth Fasten buttons (or zip up), lay the front and back body flat, horizontally and transversely measure along 2cm below the base seam of arm hole (calculate the periphery).
3 Collar size
Lay the collar flat, and measure it transversally
4 Sleeve length Flatly measure from the highest point of sleeve to the middle of cuff edge; for raglan sleeve, measure from the middle of back collar to the middle of cuff edge along the cross point of shoulder sleeve seam.
5 Total shoulder width Lay flat from the cross point of shoulder sleeve seam, measure horizontally
6 Trousers length Lay flat from waist upper opening along side seam, vertically measure to the trouser leg opening.
7 Waist girth Fasten the trouser button, measure transversely along the middle of waist width (calculate the periphery).
Note: special requirements shall be in accordance with the enterprise requirements.
Figure 2
4.3 Determination of down quantity and down-filling quantity of finished product
4.3.1 Down quantity requirements of finished product shall be in accordance with 3.4.1, down quality of finished product shall be in accordance with 3.4.3, and testing methods shall be in accordance with FZ/T 80001.
4.3.2 Allowable deviation of down-filling quantity of finished product shall be in accordance with 3.4.2 and testing methods shall be in accordance with Appendix C.
4.3.3 Sampling: filler of the whole finished product.
Foreword i
1 Scope
2 Normative References
3 Requirements
4 Inspection (Testing) Method
5 Inspection Classification Rules
6 Marking, Packaging, Transportation and Storage
Appendix A (Normative) Test Methods for Slipping Degree of Seam
Appendix B (Normative) Sampling Location Schematic Diagram for Joint Strength Test of Seat Seam of Down Pants
Appendix C (Normative) Testing Method of Down-Filling Quantity
