 |
中标分类
行业分类
ICS分类
最新标准
|
登录注册 |
| 您的位置: 标准明细 |
Codeofchina.com is in charge of this English translation. In case of any doubt about the English translation, the Chinese original shall be considered authoritative. This standard replaces GB/T 14272-1993 "Down Garments". Compared with GB/T 14272-1993, this standard has the following major changes: ——Technical requirements related to the accessories and appearance quality requirements were added; ——Down quantity of finished product garment was improved from "not less than 45%" to "not less than 50%"; ——Allowable deviation of down-filling quantity of finished product garment was -5%; ——The inspection requirements for the microorganism state (mesophilic aerobic bacteria, streptococcus faecalis, sulfurous acid reduced clostridium and salmonella) of feather and down were added; ——"The color difference between top and trouser in a suit shall not be less than Grade 3~4" was added; ——Requirements for the colour fastness to washing, color fastness to wet friction and colour fastness to light were added; ——Formaldehyde content released from the finished product ≤300mg/kg was added; ——Requirements for the allowable degree of pH value of finished product 4.0 ~ 9.0 were added; ——Sample single piece judgment requirements were improved; ——Contents of down garments finished product defect judgment were supplemented and consummated; ——Appendix C "Testing method of down-filling quantity" was added. Appendix A "Test Methods for Slipping Degree of Seam" of this standard adopts by reference to the provisions in FZ/T20019-1999 "Test Method for Determining the Seam Slipping of Wool Woven Fabrics". Appendix A, Appendix B and Appendix C of this standard are normative. This standard was proposed by China National Textile and Apparel Council. This standard is under the jurisdiction of the National Technical Committee 219 on Garments of Standardization Administration of China. Shanghai Garment Research Institute, National Garments Quality Inspection and Supervision Center (Shanghai) are Professional Committee of China's Down Products are responsible for drafting this standard. Jiangsu Kangbo Group Co., Ltd. is participating in drafting this standard. Chief drafting staffs: Xu Jian, Xu Yunbao, Zhou Xipu, Chen Lu, Zheng Jinyang, Qin Wei, Gao Dekang. This standard was issued for the first time in 1993, and this was the first revision. Down Garments 1 Scope This standard specifies the requirements, inspection (testing) method, inspection classification rules as well as marking, packaging, transportation, storage and other technical features for the down garments. This standard is applicable to the mass-produced garments with textile fabrics as raw material and down as filler. 2 Normative References The following standards contain provisions which, through reference in this text, constitute provisions of this standard. For dated reference, subsequent amendments to (excluding correction to), or revisions of, any of these publications do not apply. However, the parties to agreements based on this standard are encouraged to investigate the possibility of applying the most recent editions of the standards. For undated references, the latest edition of the normative document referred to applies. GB 250 Gray scale for assessing change in colour GB 251 Gray scale for assessing staining GB/T 1335(all parts) Size designation of clothes GB/T 2910-1997 Textile - Binary fiber mixtures - Quantitative chemical analysis GB/T 2911-1997 Textiles - Ternary fiber mixtures - Quantitative analysis GB/T 291 2.1-1997 Textiles - Determination of Formaldehyde - Part 1: Free and Hydrolyzed Formaldehyde (Water Extraction Method) GB/T 3920-1997 Textiles - Tests for colour fastness - Colour fastness to rubbing GB/T 3921-1997 Textiles-Tests for colour fastness-Colour fastness to washing GB/T 3923.1-1997 Textiles - Tensile properties of fabrics - Part 1: Determination of breaking force and elongation at breaking force--Strip method GB 5296.4 Instructions for use of products of consumer interest - Instructions for use of textiles and apparel GB/T 5453-1997 Textiles - Determination of the permeability of fabrics to air GB 6529 Textiles-Standard Atmospheres for Conditioning and Testing GB/T 7573-1987 Textiles - Determination of pH of the aqueous extract GB/T 8427-1998 Textiles - Tests for color fastness - Color fastness to artificial light: Xenon arc fading lamp test FZ/T 20019-1999 Test method for determining the seam slipping of wool woven fabrics FZ/T 80001 Testing method for washed feather and down FZ/T 80002 Marking packaging transportation and storage for garments FZ/T 81002 Washed feather and down 3 Requirements 3.1 Requirements in instructions for use Instructions for use shall comply with the requirements of GB 5296.4. 3.2 Requirements in size designation 3.2.1 Size designation setting shall comply with the requirements of GB/T 1335. 3.2.2 Specifications of main positions of finished product shall be designed by self according to the relevant requirements of GB/T 1335. 3.3 Raw material requirements 3.3.1 Shell fabric It shall be selected according to the relevant textile shell fabric standards. 3.3.2 Lining 3.3.2.1 Except the special requirements, the lining with property and color matching with shell fabric used shall be adopted. 3.3.2.2 Airtight film shall not be used. 3.3.2.3 The fabrics directly contacting the down must have the down-drilling-resistant property. 3.3.3 Accessories 3.3.3.1 Interlining Interlining suitable for shell fabric shall be adopted, and the shrinkage ratio hereof shall be suitable to the one of the shell fabric. 3.3.3.2 Stitch thread Stitch thread matching the quality of accessories and linings used shall be adopted. Button thread shall be suitable to button in color; trademark thread shall be suitable to trademark ground colour (except ornamental thread). 3.3.3.3 Button and auxiliaries Button (except ornamental button) and auxiliaries of suitability to shell fabric used shall be adopted. Buttons and auxiliaries shall be free of deformation and discoloring after washing and ironing. 3.4 Filler requirements 3.4.1 Down quantity in the finished product shall not be less than 50% and its deviation shall be one percentage point higher than the index specified in FZ/T 81002. 3.4.2 Allowable deviation of down-filling quantity in finished product is -5%. 3.4.3 Down quantity, bulking intensity, oxygen consumption, cleanness, peculiar smell and microorganism (mesophilic aerobic bacteria, streptococcus faecalis, sulfurous acid reduced clostridium and salmonella) indexes in the down shall be implemented in accordance with FZ/T 81002. 3.5 Specifications of warp and weft directions 3.5.1 Front warp shall be subject to the closure line and shall not be inclined. 3.5.2 Back warp shall be subject to the dorsal line and its inclination shall not be greater than 1.0cm; the inclination of coat shall not be greater than 1.5cm, and stripe and plaid materials shall not be inclined. 3.5.3 Sleeve warp shall be subject to the middle line of fore sleeve and the inclination of topside sleeve shall not be greater than 1.0cm; the inclination of underside sleeve shall not be greater than 1.5cm (except the special craft). 3.5.4 Allowable degrees of front fly of right warping (converse warping is not allowable), back fly, sleeve and front/back trouser pieces shall meet the requirements of Table 1. Table 1 Unit: % Shell fabric Grade Superior quality product First-grade product Qualified product Mixed colored ≤3 ≤4 ≤5 Colored woven or printed, checks ≤2 ≤2.5 ≤3 3.6 Requirements on stripe or plaid matching 3.6.1 Apparent stripes or plaids of over 1.0cm, if on shell fabric, shall comply with the requirements of Table 2. Table 2 Position Requirements on stripe or plaid matching Remarks Front Stripe straight and smooth; plaid matching of plaid material; the mutual deviation shall not be greater than 0.3cm. If the sizes of plaids are different, take the upper part of one third front. Pocket, flap and body piece Stripe matching of strip material; plaid matching of plaid material; the mutual deviation shall not be greater than 0.3cm. In case of different plaid size, subject to the center of the bag front. Collar point Stripe and plaid shall be symmetrical; the mutual deviation shall not be greater than 0.3cm. If checker board weaves exist, take the obvious one. Sleeve Two sleeves are smooth and straight, and of symmetrical stripes and plaids matching; and the mutual deviation based on sleeve cap is not greater than 1.0cm. — Trouser side seam The plaid materials at 10cm below the side seam pocket opening shall be horizontally aligned, and the mutual deviation shall not be larger than 0.5cm. — Front/back crotch seam Stripe and plaid shall be symmetrical; plaid matching of plaid material; the mutual deviation shall not be greater than 0.5cm. — 3.6.2 Fabric and velvet, checker board weave material shall be in the same direction in the whole body (the whole part of long-hair raw materials shall be in the same direction). 3.6.3 Shell fabric with special pattern shall subject to the main pettern be in the same direction in the whole body. 3.7 Requirements in color difference Colour difference of sleeve seam and side seam shall not be less than Grade 3~4, and that on other surface positions shall not be less than Grade 4.Colour difference caused by the interlining adhered or multi-layer materials shall not be less than Grade 3~4.The color difference between top and trouser in a suit shall not be less than Grade 3~4. 3.8 Appearance quality requirements The allowable existence degree of appearance defect at each position of the finished product with cotton cloth and washing cotton as the shell fabric shall be in accordance with those specified in Table 3. The allowable existence degree of appearance defect at each position of the finished product with nylon shioze as the shell fabric shall be in accordance with those specified in Table 4. Position classification of finished product is detailed in Figures 1a), 1b), 1c) and 1d). Only one defect is allowable on each independent position, and the defects not listed in this Standard shall, by its form, comply with the requirements of Tables 3 and 4. Table 3 Defect name The allowable existence degree at each position Position 1 Position 2 Position 3 3 roots thicker than twice roving Unallowable 1~2 cm 2.1~4 cm 4 roots thicker than three times of roving Unallowable Unallowable 1~1.5 cm Warp shrinkage Unallowable Not obvious 2 cm long, 0.5 cm long Granular roving Unallowable Unallowable Unallowable Shade bar Unallowable Not affecting the overall appearance Not wider than 0.2 cm Stain Unallowable Not affecting the overall appearance Not greater than 0.2 cm2 Table 4 Defect name Allowable existence degree at each position of nylon shioze raw material Position 1 Position 2 Position 3 Missing warp (weft) Unallowable Unallowable Unallowable Weft bar Unallowable Not affecting the overall appearance Not wider than 0.2 cm Stain Unallowable Not affecting the overall appearance Not greater than 0.2 cm2 Figure 1 3.9 Sewing requirements 3.9.1 Requirements for the transverse quilting threads on the surface are detailed in Table 5. Table 5 Position name Requirements on plaid matching of surface quilting thread Overlap Left, right and front quilting thread, mutual deviation not greater than 0.4cm No overlap Left, right and front quilting thread, mutual deviation not greater than 0.3cm Sleeve line Quilting thread aligned, mutual deviation not greater than 0.6cm Side seam Front and back quilting thread aligned, mutual deviation not greater than 0.6cm Lower crotch seam of trousers Front and back quilting thread aligned, mutual deviation not greater than 0.8cm 3.9.2 Longitudinal quilting threads on the surface shall be symmetrical on the left and right. 3.9.3 Needle pitch density shall meet the requirements of Table 6. Table 6 Item Needle pitch density Remarks Open/blind thread 12~16 stitches each 3 cm Except the particular case Quilting thread 9~12 stitches each 3 cm — Buttonholing Not less than 14 stitches each 1 cm Thin line Buttoning Not less than 8 threads each hole Thin line Overseam 9~12 stitches each 3 cm — 3.9.4 Sewing lines on each position shall be smooth, straight, regular, flat and firm. Main surface position and sewing shrivel degree shall meet the requirements of "Grade 5 Sample Photographs of down Garments Appearance Defects and Sewing Wrinkles" and shall not be less than Grade 3. 3.9.5 Upper and lower threads are tightened properly, free of broken thread. Back stitching shall be arranged on the first and last stitch. 3.9.6 The collar shall be flat, and the tightness of collar flat shall be proper. 3.9.7 Set sleeve shall be smooth, and basically consistent in front and back. 3.9.8 Trademark, size mark, component mark, and washing mark shall be located upright, clear and accurate. 3.9.9 Each position shall not skip stitch twice and continuously skip stitch within 30cm of seaming stitch; overchain stitch is not allowed to skip thread. 3.10 The limit deviation of specification on main position of the finished product shall be in accordance with those specified in Table 7. Table 7 Unit: cm No. Position name Limit deviation Coat, short overcoat Medium, long overcoat Children’s coat Children’s medium, long overcoat Trousers Children’s trousers 1 Coat length ±2.0 ±2.5 ±1.5 ±2.0 — — 2 Chest girth ±2.5 ±2.5 ±2.0 ±2.0 — — 3 Collar size ±1.0 ±1.0 ±1.0 ±1.0 — — 4 Sleeve length Inset sleeve ±1.5 ±1.5 ±1.0 ±1.0 — — Raglan sleeve ±2.0 ±2.0 ±1.5 ±1.5 — — 5 Total shoulder width ±1.2 ±1.2 ±1.0 ±1.0 — — 6 Trousers length — — — — ±2.5 ±2.0 7 Waist girth — — — — ±2.0 ±1.5 3.11 Ironing appearance requirements 3.11.1 Each position shall be ironed flat, neat, and free from burnt stain, water stain and light. 3.11.2 The position covered with adhesive interlining shall be free from degumming, strike-through and wrinkling. 3.12 Physical and chemical property requirements 3.12.1 Colour fastness requirements Allowable degree of colour fastness to washing, color fastness to wet friction and colour fastness to light for the finished products shall be in accordance with Table 8. Table 8 Unit: grade Item Allowable degree of colour fastness Superior quality product First-grade product, qualified product Washing fastness Discoloration ≥4 ≥3—4 Staining ≥4 ≥3—4 Wet friction fastness Staining ≥4 ≥3—4 Dry friction fastness Staining ≥4 ≥3—4 Light fastness Discoloration ≥4 Note: colour fastness of silk-based shell fabric shall be assessed according to the silk garment standards. 3.12.2 Sewing stress requirements Allowable slipping degree of the seams on the main positions of finished product shall not be greater than 0.4cm. Seam stress of trouser back crotch seam of finished product shall not be less than 80 N. 3.12.3 Formaldehyde content released from the finished product Formaldehyde content released from the finished product: ≤300 mg/kg. 3.12.4 PH value of finished product Allowable degree is 4.0~9.0. 3.12.5 Component and content of raw material in the finished product It shall correspond with the contents marked on the instructions for use. 4 Inspection (Testing) Method 4.1 Inspection tools 4.1.1 Steel tape. 4.1.2 Counter scale. 4.1.3 Needle detector. 4.1.4 Gray scale for assessing change in colour (GB 250). 4.1.5 Gray scale for assessing staining (GB 251). 4.1.6 Grade 5 sample photographs of down garments appearance defects and sewing wrinkles. 4.1.7 Appearance defect sample photographs of men and women single, cotton wadded clothes and men, women and children single garment. 4.2 Determination of the finished product specification 4.2.1 Specification of finished product on the main positions shall be in accordance with those specified in 3.2.2. 4.2.2 The measuring method of the main position of the finished products shall be according to those specified in Table 9 and Figure 2; the allowable deviation shall be according to those specified in 3.10. Table 9 No. Position name Measuring method 1 Coat length Flatly measure from the highest point of the front shoulder seam to the hem, or vertically measure from the middle of back collar to the hem. 2 Chest girth Fasten buttons (or zip up), lay the front and back body flat, horizontally and transversely measure along 2cm below the base seam of arm hole (calculate the periphery). 3 Collar size Lay the collar flat, and measure it transversally 4 Sleeve length Flatly measure from the highest point of sleeve to the middle of cuff edge; for raglan sleeve, measure from the middle of back collar to the middle of cuff edge along the cross point of shoulder sleeve seam. 5 Total shoulder width Lay flat from the cross point of shoulder sleeve seam, measure horizontally 6 Trousers length Lay flat from waist upper opening along side seam, vertically measure to the trouser leg opening. 7 Waist girth Fasten the trouser button, measure transversely along the middle of waist width (calculate the periphery). Note: special requirements shall be in accordance with the enterprise requirements. Figure 2 4.3 Determination of down quantity and down-filling quantity of finished product 4.3.1 Down quantity requirements of finished product shall be in accordance with 3.4.1, down quality of finished product shall be in accordance with 3.4.3, and testing methods shall be in accordance with FZ/T 80001. 4.3.2 Allowable deviation of down-filling quantity of finished product shall be in accordance with 3.4.2 and testing methods shall be in accordance with Appendix C. 4.3.3 Sampling: filler of the whole finished product. Foreword i 1 Scope 2 Normative References 3 Requirements 4 Inspection (Testing) Method 5 Inspection Classification Rules 6 Marking, Packaging, Transportation and Storage Appendix A (Normative) Test Methods for Slipping Degree of Seam Appendix B (Normative) Sampling Location Schematic Diagram for Joint Strength Test of Seat Seam of Down Pants Appendix C (Normative) Testing Method of Down-Filling Quantity 羽绒服装 1 范围 本标准规定了羽绒服装的要求、检验(测试)方法、检验分类规则，以及标志、包装、运输和贮存等全部技术特征。 本标准适用于以纺织织物为原料，以羽绒为填充物，成批生产的各种服装。 2 规范性引用文件 下列文件中的条款通过本标准的引用而成为本标准的条款。凡是注日期的引用文件，其随后所有的修改单(不包括勘误的内容)或修订版均不适用于本标准，然而，鼓励根据本标准达成协议的各方研究是否可使用这些文件的最新版本。凡是不注日期的引用文件，其最新版本适用于本标准。 GB 250 评定变色用灰色样卡 GB 251 评定沾色用灰色样卡 GB／T 1335(所有部分) 服装号型 GB／T 2910—1997 纺织品 二组分纤维混纺产品定量化学分析方法 GB／T 2911一1997 纺织品 三组分纤维混纺产品定量化学分析方法 GB／T 291 2．1—1997 纺织品 甲醛的测定 第1部分：游离水解的甲醛(水萃取法) GB／T 3920—1997 纺织品 色牢度试验 耐摩擦色牢度 GB／T 3921—1997 纺织品 色牢度试验 耐洗色牢度 GB／T 3923．1—1997 纺织品 织物拉伸性能 第1部分：断裂强力和断裂伸长率的测定 条样法 GB 5296．4 消费品使用说明 纺织品和服装使用说明 GB／T 5453—1997 纺织品 织物透气性的测定 GB 6529 纺织品的调湿和试验用标准大气 GB／T 7573—1987 纺织品 水萃取液pH值的测定 GB／T 8427—1998 纺织品 色牢度试验 耐人造气候色牢度：氤弧 FZ／T 20019—1999 毛机织物缝口脱开程度试验方法 FZ／T 80001 水洗羽毛羽绒试验方法 FZ／T 80002 服装标志、包装、运输和贮存 FZ／T 81002 水洗羽毛羽绒 3 要求 3．1 使用说明规定 使用说明按GB 5296．4规定执行。 3．2 号型规定 3．2．1 号型设置按GB／T 1335的规定选用。 3．2．2 成品主要部位规格，按GB／T 1335的有关规定自行设计。 3．3 原材料规定 3．3．1 面料 按有关纺织面料标准选用。 3．3．2 里料 3．3．2．1 采用与面料性能、色泽相适合的里料，特殊需要除外。 3．3．2．2 不允许使用不透气的薄膜。 3．3．2．3 与羽绒直接接触的织物必须有防钻绒性能。 3．3．3 辅料 3．3．3．1 衬布 采用适合面料的衬布，其收缩率应与面料相适宜。 3．3．3．2 缝线 采用适合所用面辅料、里料质量的缝线。钉扣线应与扣的色泽相适宜；钉商标线应与商标底色相适宜(装饰线除外)。 3．3．3．3 钮扣及附件 采用适合所用面料的钮扣(装饰扣除外)及附件。钮扣及附件经洗涤和熨烫后不变形、不变色。 3．4 填充物规定 3．4．1 成品的含绒量不低于50％，其偏差比FZ／T 81002规定的指标增加一个百分点。 3．4．2 成品的充绒量允许偏差为－5％。 3．4．3 羽绒品质中的含绒量、蓬松度、耗氧量、清洁度、异味及微生物(嗜温性需氧菌、粪链球菌、亚硫酸还原的梭状芽胞杆菌、沙门氏菌)的指标按FZ／T 81002的规定执行。 3．5 经纬纱向技术规定 3．5．1 前身经纱以门襟线为准，不允斜。 3．5．2 后身经纱以背中线为准，倾斜不大于1．0 cm，大衣倾斜不大于1．5 cm，条格料不允斜。 3．5．3 袖子经纱以前袖中线为准，大袖片倾斜不太于1．0 cm；小袖片倾斜不大于1．5 cm(特殊工艺除外)。 3．5．4 前身顺翘(不允许倒翘)，后身、袖子、前后裤片允许程度按表1规定。 表1 单位为％ 面料 等级 优等品 一等品 合格品 什色 ≤3 ≤4 ≤5 色织或印花、条格料 ≤2 ≤2.5 ≤3 3．6 对条对格规定 3．6．1 面料有明显条、格在1．0 cm及以上的按表2规定。 表2 部位 对条对格规定 备注 前身 条料顺直．格料对横，互差不大于0．3 cm 格子大小不一致，以前身三分之一上部为准 袋、袋盖与大身 条料对条，格料对横，互差不大于0．3 cm 格子大小不一致．以袋的中心前部为准 领角 条格左右对称，互差不大于0．3 cm 阴阳条格以明显条格为主 袖子 两袖左右顺直．条格对称．以袖山为准，互差不大于1．0 cm — 裤侧缝 侧缝袋口下10 cm处格料对横，互差不大于0．5 cm — 前后裆缝 条格对称，格料对横，互差不大于0．5 cm — 3．6．2 倒顺毛、阴阳格原料，全身顺向一致(长毛原料，全身上下顺向一致)。 3．6．3 特殊图案面料以主图为准，全身顺向一致。 3．7 色差规定 袖缝、摆缝的色差不低于3—4级，其他表面部位不低于4级。由多层面料或覆粘合衬所造成的色差不低于3—4级。套装中上装与裤子的色差不低于3—4级。 3．8 外观疵点规定 以棉布、涤棉等为面料的成品各部位疵点允许存在程度按表3规定。以尼丝纺为面料的成品各部位疵点允许存在程度按表4规定。成品各部位划分见图1a)、图1b)、图1c)、图1d)。每个独立部位只允许疵点一处，未列入本标准的疵点按其形态，参照表3和表4的相似疵点执行。 表3 疵点名称 各部位允许存在程度 1号部位 2号部位 3号部位 粗于二倍粗纱3根 不允许 1～2 cm 2.1～4 cm 粗于三倍粗纱4根 不允许 不允许 1～1.5 cm 经缩 不允许 不明显 长2 cm，宽0．5 cm 颗粒状粗纱 不允许 不允许 不允许 色档 不允许 不影响外观 不宽于0.2 cm 污渍 不允许 不影响外观 不大于0.2 cm2 表4 疵点名称 尼丝纺原料各部位允许存在程度 1号部位 2号部位 3号部位 缺经(纬) 不允许 不允许 不允许 纬档 不允许 不影响外观 不宽于0．2 cm 污溃 不允许 不影响外观 不大于0.2 cm2 图1 3．9 缝制规定 3．9．1 表面横向绗线规定见表5。 表5 部位名称 表面绗线对格规定 搭门 左右前身绗线，互差不大于0．4 cm 无搭门 左右前身绗线，互差不大于0．3 cm 袖底缝 绗线对齐，互差不大于0．6 cm 摆缝 绗线前后对齐，互差不大于0．6 cm 裤下裆缝 绗线前后对齐，互差不大于0．8 cm 3．9．2 表面纵向绗线左右对称。 3．9．3 针距密度按表6规定。 表6 项目 针距密度 备注 明暗线 3 cm 12～16针 特殊情况除外 绗线 3 cm 9～12针 — 锁眼 1 cm不少于14针 细线 钉扣 每眼不少于8根线 细线 包缝 3 cm 9～12针 — 3．9．4 各部位缝制线路顺直、整齐、平服、牢固。主要表面部位缝制皱缩按《羽绒服装外观疵点及缝制起皱五级样照》规定，不低于3级。 3．9．5 上下线松紧适宜，无断线。起落针处应有回针。 3．9．6 领子平服，领面松紧适宜。 3．9．7 绱袖圆顺，两袖前后基本一致。 3．9．8 商标、号型标志、成分标志、洗涤标志的位置端正、清晰准确。 3．9．9 各部位缝纫线迹30 cm内不得有两处单跳和连续跳针，链式线迹不允许跳针。 3．10 成品主要部位规格极限偏差按表7规定。 表7 单位为厘米 序号 部位名称 极限偏差 上衣、短大衣 中、长大衣 童上衣 童中、长大衣 裤 童裤 1 衣长 ±2.0 ±2.5 ±1.5 ±2.0 — — 2 胸围 ±2.5 ±2.5 ±2.0 ±2.0 — — 3 领大 ±1.0 ±1.0 ±1.0 ±1.0 — — 4 袖长 装袖 ±1.5 ±1.5 ±1.0 ±1.0 — — 连肩袖 ±2.0 ±2.0 ±1.5 ±1.5 — — 5 总肩宽 ±1.2 ±1.2 ±1.0 ±1.0 — — 6 裤长 — — — — ±2.5 ±2.0 7 腰围 — — — — ±2.0 ±1.5 3．11 整烫外观规定 3．11．1 各部位熨烫平服、整洁，无烫黄、水渍、亮光。 3．11．2 覆粘合衬部位不允许有脱胶、渗胶及起皱。 3．12 理化性能要求 3．12．1 色牢度规定 成品耐洗色牢度、耐湿摩擦色牢度、耐光色牢度允许程度按表8规定。 表8 单位为级 项目 色牢度允许程度 优等品 一等品、合格品 耐洗 变色 ≥4 ≥3—4 沾色 ≥4 ≥3—4 耐湿摩擦 沾色 ≥4 ≥3—4 耐干摩擦 沾色 ≥4 ≥3—4 耐光 变色 ≥4 注：蚕丝面料的色牢度按丝绸服装标准考核。 3．12．2 缝制强力规定 成品主要部位缝子纰裂允许程度不大于0．4 cm。成品裤后裆缝接缝强力不小于80 N。 3．12．3 成品释放甲醛含量 成品释放甲醛含量≤300 mg／kg。 3．12．4 成品pH值 允许程度在4．0～9．0。 3．12．5 成品所用原料的成分和含量 应与使用说明上标注的内容相符。 4 检验(测试)方法 4．1 检验工具 4．1．1 钢卷尺。 4．1．2 案秤。 4．1．3 验针机。 4．1．4 评定变色用灰色样卡(GB 250)。 4．1．5 评定沾色用灰色样卡(GB 251)。 4．1．6 羽绒服装外观疵点及缝纫起皱五级样照。 4．1．7 男女单、棉服装和男女儿童单服装外观疵点样照。 4．2 成品规格测定 4．2．1 成品主要部位规格按3．2．2规定。 4．2．2 成品主要部位的测量方法按表9和图2规定，允许偏差按3．10规定。 表9 序号 部位名称 测量方法 1 衣长 由前身肩缝最高点捋平量至底边，或由后领中垂直量至底边。 2 胸围 扣上钮扣(或合上拉链)前后身摊平，沿袖窿底缝下2 cm水平横量(周围计算)。 3 领大 领下口捋平横量。 4 袖长 由袖子最高点捋平量至袖口边中间。莲肩袖由后领中沿肩袖缝交叉点量至袖口边中间。 5 总肩宽 由肩袖缝的交叉点摊平横量。 6 裤长 由腰上口沿侧缝捋平量至裤脚口。 7 腰围 扣好裤扣，沿腰口中间捋平横量(周围计算)。 注：有特殊需要的按企业规定。 图2 4．3 成品的含绒量和充绒量的测定 4．3．1 成品的含绒量要求按3．4．1规定，成品中的羽绒品质按3．4．3规定，测试方法按FZ／T 80001规定。 4．3．2 成品的充绒量允许偏差按3．4．2规定，测试方法按附录C规定。 4．3．3 取样：整件成品的填充物。 4．4 外观测定 4．4．1 对条对格按3．6规定。 4．4．2 测定色差程度时，被测部位必须纱向一致。北半球用北空光照射，南半球用南空光照射，或用600 lx及以上的等效光源。入射光与织物表面约成45°角，观察方向大致垂直于织物表面，距离60 cm目测。色差规定按3．7规定。与GB 250样卡对比。 4．4．3 成品各部位疵点允许存在程度按3．8规定，与男女羽绒服装外观疵点样照或男女单、棉服装及男女儿童单服装外观疵点样照对比。 4．4．4 缝制按3．9规定。针距密度按表6规定，在成品上任取3 cm测量(厚薄部位除外)。成品主要部位缝子皱缩按3．9．4规定。 4．4．5 纬斜测定：纬斜率按式(1)计算。 ……………(1) 4．4．6 整烫外观按3．11规定。 4．5 理化性能指标测定 4．5．1 成品耐湿摩擦色牢度、耐干摩擦色牢度、耐洗色牢度、耐光色牢度允许程度按3．12．1规定，测试方法分别按GB／T 3920、GB／T 3921、GB／T 8427规定。 4．5．2 成品缝子纰裂允许程度按3．12．2规定，测试方法按附录A规定。取样部位按表10规定。 表10 取样部位名称 取样部位规定 袖窿缝 后袖窿弯处 摆缝 袖窿处向下10 cm 裤后缝 后龙门弧线二分之一为中心 下档缝 下档缝上三分之一为中心 4．5．3 裤后裆缝的接缝强力按3．12．2规定，测试方法按GB／T 3923．1规定，取样部位见附录B。 4．5．4 成品释放甲醛含量允许程度按3．12．3规定，测试方法按GB／T 2912．1规定。 4．5．5 成品pH值允许程度按3．12．4规定，测试方法按GB／T 7573规定。 4．5．6 成品所用面料透气性的测试方法按GB／T 5453规定。 4．5．7 成品所用原料的成分和含量的测试方法按GB／T 2910、GB／T 2911等规定。 4．5．8 尚未提及的理化性能测试取样部位，可按测试项目在成品上任意选取有代表性的试样。 5 检验分类规则 5．1 检验分类 成品检验分为出厂检验、一般型式检验和型式检验。 5．1．1 出厂检验按第3章规定，3．12除外。 5．1．2 一般型式检验按第3章规定，3．12．2除外。 5．1．3 型式检验按第3章规定(只在质量仲裁等情况下使用)。 5．2 质量等级和缺陷划分规则 5．2．1 质量等级划分 成品质量等级划分以缺陷是否存在及其轻重程度为依据。抽样样本中的单件产品以缺陷的数量及其轻重程度划分等级，批等级以抽样样本中单件产品的品等数量划分。 5．2．2 缺陷划分 单件产品不符合本标准所规定的技术要求即构成缺陷。 按照产品不符合标准和对产品的性能、外观的影响程度，缺陷分成三类： a)严重缺陷 严重降低产品的使用性能，严重影响产品外观的缺陷，称为严重缺陷。 b)重缺陷 不严重降低产品的使用性能，不严重影响产品的外观。但较严重不符合标准规定的缺陷，称为重缺陷。 c)轻缺陷 不符合标准的规定，但对产品的使用性能和外观影响较小的缺陷，称为轻缺陷。 5．2．3 质量缺陷判定依据 见表11。 表11 项目 序号 轻缺陷 重缺陷 严重缺陷 外观及缝制质量 1 标志字迹不清晰；商标不端正，明显歪斜；钉商标线与商标底色的色泽不适应。 使用说明内容不准确。 使用说明内容缺项。 2 覆粘合衬部位脱胶、渗胶、起皱。 3 充绒量允许偏差小于－5％ 4 表面部位有轻微污渍；附件有掉皮、锈斑、划痕；有粉印、水花1．0 cm2以上。 1、2号部位表面有明显污溃。里于有明显污溃，面积大干25cm2。附件有明显掉皮、锈斑。 表面部位严重污渍，面积大于50 cm2。 5 熨烫不平；有亮光。 轻微烫黄，变色。 变质；残破。 6 轻微钻绒(缝子处除外)。 有漏绒等，严重影响使用和美观。 7 1．0 cm以上线头超过5根。 毛、脱、漏，表面部位在1．0 cm及以下，或里子部位在2．0 cm及以下。 毛、脱、漏．表面部位在1．0 cm以上，或里子部位在2．0 cm以上。 8 领角(圆角)互差大于0．3 cm 领角(圆角)互差大于0．6 cm；领面明显起绺，低于本标准规定。 9 绱领偏斜1．0 cm及以内。 绱领偏斜大于1．0 cm。 10 各缝制部位起皱低于本标准规定。 门、里襟严重起皱、起绺，低于本标准规定。 11 两袋口对比互差大于0．6 cm；袋盖小于袋口0．4 cm；两袋高低进出左右互差小于0．8 cm；袋盖宽窄大于0．4 cm，嵌线宽窄大于0．3 cm。 嵌线、袋口严重毛出；两袋高低进出左右互差大于等于0．8cm；袋口封口严重不牢固。 外观及缝制质量 12 绱袖不圆顺，吃势不均匀；两袖前后互差大于1．5 cm；两袖长短互差大于1．0 cm。 绱袖不圆顺，吃势严重不均匀。 13 帽门、帽底对比互差大于0．6cm。 14 缉线明显不顺直；吐止口；接线双轨。 15 明线、暗线或绗线出现泡线。 色差 16 3号部位超本标准半级及以内。 1、2号部位超本标准半级及以内；3号部位超本标准半级以上。 辅料 17 缝纫线与面料和里料的质地、颜色不适应；钉扣线与扣的色泽不适应。 镶色线或镶色料褪色。 18 里料、缝纫线的色泽、色调与面料不相适应；钉扣线与扣的色泽、色调不适应。 里料、缝纫线的性能与面料不适应。 19 使用不透气的薄膜。 疵点 20 2、3号部位超过本标准规定。 1号部位超过本标准规定。 对条对格 21 对条、对格，纬斜超过本标准规定50％及其以内。 对条、对格，纬斜超过本标准规定50％以上。 面料倒顺毛，全身顺向不一致；特殊图案顺向不一致。 针距 22 低于本标准规定2针以内(含2针)。 低于本标准规定2针以上。 规格允许偏差 23 规格超过本标准规定50％以内。 规格超过本标准规定50％及以上。 规格超过本标准规定100％及以上。 四合扣 24 面扣与底扣之间互差小于0．5cm；间距进出小于0．6 cm。 面扣与底扣之间互差大于0．5cm及以上；间距进出大于0．6cm及以上。 四合扣脱落。 表面绗线 25 绗线明显不顺直；绗线线距互差大于0．3 cm。 绗线充绒厚薄严重不匀；绒内有异物。 26 无门襟对横互差大于0．3 cm。 27 摆缝对横互差大于0．5 cm。 摆缝对横互差大于0．7 cm。 28 袖底缝对横互差大于0．5 cm。 袖底缝对横互差大于0．7 cm。 拉链圆眼 29 拉链明显不平服、起皱，低于本标准规定。 拉链带宽窄超0．5 cm。 拉链缺齿，拉链头子脱落。 30 圆服毛口。 注1：以上各缺陷按序号逐项累计计算。 注2：本规则未涉及到的缺陷可根据标准规定，参照规则相似缺陷酌情判定。 注3：凡属丢工、少序、错序，均为重缺陷。断针、缺件为严重缺陷。 注4：理化性能一项不合格即为该抽验批不舍格。 5．3 抽样规定 外观抽样数量按产品批量： 500件(含500件)以下抽验10件。 500件以上至1000件(含1000件)抽验20件。 1000件以上抽验30件。 理化性能抽样4件。 5．4 判定规则 5．4．1 单件(样本)外观判定 优等品：严重缺陷数＝0 重缺陷数＝0 轻缺陷数≤4 一等品：严重缺陷数＝0 重缺陷数＝0 轻缺陷数≤7或 严重缺陷数＝0 重缺陷数≤1 轻缺陷数≤3 合格品：严重缺陷数＝0 重缺陷数＝0 轻缺陷数≤10或 严重缺陷数＝0 重缺陷数≤1 轻缺陷数≤6或 严重缺陷数＝0 重缺陷数≤2 轻缺陷数≤2 5．4．2 批量判定 优等品批：外观样本中的优等品数≥90％，一等品、合格品数≤10％。理化性能测试达到优等品指标要求。 一等品批：外观样本中的一等品以上的产品数≥90％，合格品数≤10(不含不合格品)。理化性能测试达到一等品指标要求。 合格品批：外观样本中的合格品以上产品数≥90％，不合格品数≤10％(不含严重缺陷不合格品)。理化性能测试达到合格品指标要求。 当外观缝制质量判定与理化性能判定不一致时，执行低等级判定。 5．4．3 抽验中各外观批量判定数符合本标准规定，为判定合格的等级品批出厂。 5．4．4 抽验中各外观批量判定数不符合本标准规定时，应进行第二次抽验。抽验数量增加一倍，如仍不符合本标准规定，应全部整修或降等。 |
联系我们
|
||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
|
微信联系客服
|
| 关于我们 | 联系我们 | 收费付款 |
| 服务热线：400-001-5431 | 电话：010-8572 5110 | 传真：010-8581 9515 | Email: bz@bzfyw.com | |
版权所有： 北京悦尔信息技术有限公司 2008-2020 京ICP备17065875号-1
51La
|
| 本页关键词： |
| GB/T 14272-2002, GB 14272-2002, GBT 14272-2002, GB/T14272-2002, GB/T 14272, GB/T14272, GB14272-2002, GB 14272, GB14272, GBT14272-2002, GBT 14272, GBT14272 |